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8.8 driveshaft question

9

99XJLove

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Grand Junction, CO
Okay I'm going to lift my jeep here in the next few weeks and will also be doing a SYE and driveshaft also. Funds aren't going to allow me to put in my 8.8 together with new gears and all, untill late summer. I know I can use the new cv shaft untill then, but what about after the 8.8 swap? The 8.8 has a flat round flange instead of the regular style that accepts a u joint. Do they make a regular style? Is there some sort of adapter? If there is an adapter will it make the DS to long? I really don't want to buy 2 driveshafts.
 
There is a flange adapter for the 8.8, the U-joint at the differential end is pressed into it and then the adapter is bolted to the differential with 4 bolts. Depending on where you buy your DS you can buy that along with it, it think they are like $40. The problem there depends on what size U-joint your current rear end will accept and what size the 8.8 adapter will accept.

Another problem you might run into is the required length of the DS. Most likely the required length for your current setup vs. your new 8.8 setup will be different, not by much, but you should make sure it won't cause a problem. Try to figure out what your DS lengths might be for both setups and talk to whom ever you are buying them from first. If you are going through Tom Wood, they will most definitely be able to help you, my dealings with them were phenomenal. Good luck!
 
The adapter is a flange that mates the u-joint to the ds and axle. I have one on mine from M.O.R.E. It was a little pricey for what it is, but I needed it. I looked on the M.O.R.E site but I couldn't find it. The link below is for the Currie site and part you need:

http://www.currieenterprises.com/CEStore/categoriesre.aspx?id=1148

You can use ZJ (with disk brake) e-brake cables to save a little cash. I ran the stock 3.55 gearing in my 8.8 till I had the money to go 4.56.

Also, my advanced adapters SYE and Tom Woods driveshaft (both purchased through Rusty's) fit before on my dana 35 rear and after on my 8.8 rear with no problems.
 
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I used an "adapter" (the correct term is 'companion flange') from a 4.0 V-6 Ranger w/8.8 rear axle. It accepts the 1310 u-joint, and was only $4 at the junkyard. If you've got a Chrysler 8.25" in yours, I think the V-8 Explorer companion flange will accept the 1330, which the 8.25" driveshaft should have.
 
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I put an 8.8 into my XJ and brought the shaft and flange to my parts guy and he gave me an adapter u-joint. It was like $18.00 and worked like a charm.
 
crasy1_69 said:
When I finally get to build the 8.8 in my backyard I will be replacing the flange with a yoke. Info on that was found in this thread.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88500

Craig
Click to expand...

Be careful when you tighten down the pinion nut to the correct torque specs if you are going with the yoke. One guy on the site above did it and didn't mention anything about torque specs. (the next guy did however) If you tighten it too much you could mess up the crush sleeve. You guys might already know this. There's a whole procedure to it for those that don't know.
 
Georgia Mike said:
If you've got a Chrysler 8.25" in yours, I think the V-8 Explorer companion flange will accept the 1330, which the 8.25" driveshaft should have.
Click to expand...
The 8.25 uses a 1310 joint.
 
4LowandGo said:
Be careful when you tighten down the pinion nut to the correct torque specs if you are going with the yoke. One guy on the site above did it and didn't mention anything about torque specs. (the next guy did however) If you tighten it too much you could mess up the crush sleeve. You guys might already know this. There's a whole procedure to it for those that don't know.
Click to expand...

When the time comes I will be doing a lot more reading than I already have. I know that torque specs matter for all parts and make sure they are all within spec.

Craig
 
crasy1_69 said:
When the time comes I will be doing a lot more reading than I already have. I know that torque specs matter for all parts and make sure they are all within spec.

Craig
Click to expand...
There is NO pinion nut torque spec for "crush sleeve" diffs,only pinion "rotation" torque.
 
I'm running a 99 8.8 explorer rear axle, with an adapter flange from an early 80's Merc Cougar ZR2 (or something like that), front driveshaft from a grand cherokee (slightly longer than the front driveshaft from an AW4 equiped XJ) and RE hack n tap SYE. It all fits together very nicely and no custom parts.
 
Georgia Mike said:
From everything I've read, some had 1330, some had 1310.
Click to expand...

I've been reading that rumor too. It seems to have started in the last few weeks. :)

No one has every actually produced a 1330 xj.
 
cal said:
I've been reading that rumor too. It seems to have started in the last few weeks. :)

No one has every actually produced a 1330 xj.
Click to expand...


Now I'm starting to get confused! My jeep has a D35 rear, and to be honest with you here in my town I work at a lube center that averages 80-100 vehicles per day, I have yet to see a 8.25 rear in a jeep. I even double checked a 01 limited the other day and it had the D35 under it. But anyways what u-joint does the 4.0L AX-15 231 D35 come with? If you know please help me out. I will probably just run the companion flange. If that will work?
 
1310. XJ's are all 1310, except this allegid 1330 that may or may not have existed for a year.
 
Try giving your local Fleetpride a call. They had one in stock when I needed it and it was only $17.

~Alex
 
There is one in CO not sure how far it is away from you
http://www.fleetpride.com/fp_p/branch.html
My local NAPA could not find one in their computer, possibly because Spicer stoped casting the 2-2-xxxx parts so it has a different part number. The guys at fleetpride were able to search for a new part number. Also, Tom woods has the pieces in stock.

~Alex
 
Also be carfull when you press the u-joint caps in the flange adapter. They can break in half. I welded up a broken one to use on my spare driveshaft. It broke real easy while pressing on the caps. Moore was cool and sent me a new one free but said they do snap from the side load when pressing on the caps. It was a spicer part. It won't break if you watch it but if the caps bind a little or slip when installing the press or vise will snap them real fast.
 
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