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Help me decide my next mod

sgtmack

sgtmack

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Fort Wayne, IN
First, I have a 99 with an 8.25 rear with 4.56 gears and a front Aussie. It will be on 33's with a 4.5 inch long arm lift. I like rocks more than mud.

So, if I can't do both, which should be next;

1. Alloy axles for the front. I'm on my third set of axles in two years, but the last set were cv axles.

2. No-Slip for the rear. I'm thinking if the rear is locked, the front won't have to work as hard and might not break as easily?

Opinions?
 
sgtmack said:
1. Alloy axles for the front. I'm on my third set of axles in two years, but the last set were cv axles.


Opinions?
Click to expand...

i'm confused?
 
sgtmack said:
First, I have a 99 with an 8.25 rear with 4.56 gears and a front Aussie. It will be on 33's with a 4.5 inch long arm lift. I like rocks more than mud.

So, if I can't do both, which should be next;

1. Alloy axles for the front. I'm on my third set of axles in two years, but the last set were cv axles.

2. No-Slip for the rear. I'm thinking if the rear is locked, the front won't have to work as hard and might not break as easily?

Opinions?
Click to expand...

Well I would normally say no-slip for the rear, you could go anywhere! However, sounds like you are heavy on the pedal. I like rocks too and I'm on 35s and I am yet to break an axle (knock on wood). So I'd recommend you buy Alloys for the front. Good luck and keep the thread up to date so we can see what you pick and tell you, "We told you so". j/k...good luck
 
CV joints instead of U-joints, from a Grand. They worked for several trips open, but I broke both shafts the first time out with the locker. They were from Auto-Zone. So I didn't expect them to last long.

And if I could afford a Detroit, I could buy the axles and the No-Slip. Plus I'd rather not set the gears up again. I'm lazy that way.:wave:
 
Last edited:
sgtmack said:
CV joints instead of U-joints, from a Grand. They worked for several trips open, but I broke both shafts the first time out with the locker. They were from Auto-Zone. So I didn't expect them to last long.

And if I could afford a Detroit, I could buy the axles and the No-Slip. Plus I'd rather not set the gears up again. I'm lazy that way.:wave:
Click to expand...

ok. buy the alloys you won't be sorry.
 
Mdub said:
Well I would normally say no-slip for the rear, you could go anywhere! However, sounds like you are heavy on the pedal. I like rocks too and I'm on 35s and I am yet to break an axle (knock on wood). So I'd recommend you buy Alloys for the front. Good luck and keep the thread up to date so we can see what you pick and tell you, "We told you so". j/k...good luck
Click to expand...

Same here except for taking out a stub axle when I broke u-joint. I have a Detroit in the back though so maybe it does take some of the heat off the front. If you are into the skinny pedal quite a bit you will break stuff though. Doesn't allow you to back off when there is binding.
 
If I could get an Aussie, I wouldn't even be thinking about it. But they aren't out for the 8.25, and they can't say when they will be.:(
 
It's a no-brainer with those choices Neal.

Go with a No-slip. Alloys are not needed IMHO.

If you get decent U-joints in there, you won't be snapping them. Lots of guys locked on 33's and haven't snapped a one of them.

The way you drive, if you have a locked rear, you could sell your winch..........cause you won't need it.:D

Hale
 
You are right to assume that with a rear locker you will put less stress on the front. I use my front air locker about 5% of the time off road because my rear has a no-slip. Front alloys won't make it go any better but the locker will. Go with the locker.
 
Stumpalump said:
You are right to assume that with a rear locker you will put less stress on the front. I use my front air locker about 5% of the time off road because my rear has a no-slip. Front alloys won't make it go any better but the locker will. Go with the locker.
Click to expand...


yes.
 
boise49ers said:
Same here except for taking out a stub axle when I broke u-joint. I have a Detroit in the back though so maybe it does take some of the heat off the front. If you are into the skinny pedal quite a bit you will break stuff though. Doesn't allow you to back off when there is binding.
Click to expand...

I run an Aussie in my D30 and a Detroit in the Rear D44. My son though runs a Detroit in his front D30. He has broke axles. Not much slip in the Detroit. They pretty much lock up tight which means when you crank the wheel they can bind and break things.
I think the reason Aussie hasn't made the 8.25 Aussie is because they are C-Clip. That is an assumption.
 
Haleyes said:
Pffft. I'll believe it when I see it. They have been claiming that they are "working on it" for years now.
Click to expand...

Haha! Fair enough.

What do I know... I'm just a newbie...

But I do plan on locking my Chrysler 8.25 some day... I guess unless I upgrade?
 
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