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Axle Nut

Lowrange2

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Abbeville, SC
Is there a trick to this? or is the trick heat and an impact wrench? It won't budge, either of them!

PA240348.jpg
 
YEah All I had to work with was a 2 foot long pull bar and a jack handle stuck between the lugs so the hub wouldn't turn and I bent my chessy lil jack handle. School me on how this thing comes apart. The way it looks is that nut comes off then the hub slides off (already removed the 3 bolts from the back), then the axle slides out and then the knuckle can be unbolted and beat on with a BFH...... right?
 
This is what i did. put the tire and wheels back on, without the center caps. put jeep back on the ground. Put in 4 low and park use the tire against the ground to hold the hub in place. next spray with some pb blaster, grab a beer with it sets in. Make sure cotter pin is out as well as lock washer and stuff, then get ur socket on the nut. use a breaker bar and a cheater pole and it should come rigth off.
 
flht1997 said:
you can leave the unit bearing on the shaft and remove it together. it will be a pain if you are trying to work on the u-joint though.
thats how i did my u joints wasnt that big of a pain
 
flht1997 said:
you can leave the unit bearing on the shaft and remove it together. it will be a pain if you are trying to work on the u-joint though.


I'm replacing the unis and the knuckles on both sides... same shafts, the nut must come off.


So if i remove the 3 12 point bolts then the hub, and shaft should slide out? Is there not a flange on the shaft that keeps it from sliding thru the opening in the knuckle? HOw hards should it be to slide things out of the axle tube?
 
2000bluexj said:
This is what i did. put the tire and wheels back on, without the center caps. put jeep back on the ground. Put in 4 low and park use the tire against the ground to hold the hub in place. next spray with some pb blaster, grab a beer with it sets in. Make sure cotter pin is out as well as lock washer and stuff, then get ur socket on the nut. use a breaker bar and a cheater pole and it should come rigth off.

X2 and get a bigger breaker bar. Or get a decent impact if available.

Kim
 
of course removing the hub can be a pain too. take one of the bolt down to your hardware store and get one with the same thread but a little longer. you can thread this into the hub and use it to hammer out the hub.
 
onebigzj said:
complete shaft will come out with bearing unit.

If the hub is loose.......
That is usually the biggest problem.

But if he is having problems with the hub nut, I wouldn't be suprised if the hub is a miserable pain to remove. I usually use a 3 foot breaker and a length of cheater pipe rather than a rattle gun.

Shaft can be removed with the hub or without. I usually do it without, just so I can easily slide the shaft in and out. Also it makes inspecting everything easier.

Crystal Lake,IL ???
 
Ima have to reinstall the wheel to keep the hub from spinning. I bent the bar I was using to keep the hub put... thanks guys I'll let ya know. Its soakin in PB Blaster now... I'll smack the hub with a BFH tomorrow Ima throw em away anyways... what was the thing about putting a socket between the hub and something and turn the wheel to pop the hub loose?



Edit: for the record me and the previous post --- posted at the same time... what a coincidence...


Edit again: Shit I'll have to hoook my steering back up... but it should work and if it does it'll be worth breakin out the old pos steering... Thanks Again.
 
Once you get the nut off, use an air chisel to knock the hub loose. It will destroy the dust shield, but works pretty good. JIM.
 
Always coat something like this with anti-seize before reassembly. Make next time a lot easier. I didn't see it mentioned about the nut being 36mm. If no access to impact, you will need a long cheater bar.
 
Last edited:
w_howey said:
If the hub is loose.......
That is usually the biggest problem.

But if he is having problems with the hub nut, I wouldn't be suprised if the hub is a miserable pain to remove. I usually use a 3 foot breaker and a length of cheater pipe rather than a rattle gun.

Shaft can be removed with the hub or without. I usually do it without, just so I can easily slide the shaft in and out. Also it makes inspecting everything easier.

Crystal Lake,IL ???

My hubs were miserable to remove, however, using a 25 gallon air compressor and a good impact, the nuts came right off without much effort.
 
just put new hubs on my trail rig. i always loosen those nuts before i even jack the truck up.

put the wheel back on, and put the jeep on the ground. that nut is torqued to 175 lb feet from the factory specs, and im SURE its a LOT tighter by now. you will need a HUGE breaker bar and a 36mm 6 point socket.

most likely, if you have an impact, it doesnt put out close to 200 lb/ft...get a 2 foot breaker bar...a pipe wont cut it

to get the hub out, use a BFH...when reinstalling, coat the back in antisieze. you will love yourself later for this.

-Tim
 
jeepnuts311 said:
just put new hubs on my trail rig. i always loosen those nuts before i even jack the truck up.

put the wheel back on, and put the jeep on the ground. that nut is torqued to 175 lb feet from the factory specs, and im SURE its a LOT tighter by now. you will need a HUGE breaker bar and a 36mm 6 point socket.

most likely, if you have an impact, it doesnt put out close to 200 lb/ft...get a 2 foot breaker bar...a pipe wont cut it

to get the hub out, use a BFH...when reinstalling, coat the back in antisieze. you will love yourself later for this.

-Tim

Yep - break it loose before you lift the wheel. Use the weight of the vehicle to help you (like breaking a pinion nut loose.)

Torque to 175 pound-feet (clean, dry threads) or 88 pound-feet (using never-seez on threads.)

Even with the wheel on the ground, you'll want to get a cheater bar - I use a four-foot long section of Sch. 40 iron pipe without threaded ends (so they don't dig into anything important - like the palms of my hands...)
 
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