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Modifying Transmission Shift Points

BBeach

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Worcester
Is there any way other than AW4 shifting to be able to program it to either shift hard and high or for somewhat hard and early (for fuel economy). When I'm driving normally it likes to lag around in a gear before shifting whereas other cars ive driven will get into the higher gears quicker. It just feels like the torque converter is "slipping" too much even though I think its in decent shape. I know you cant do it with a jet chip but I was wondering if anyone had any idea as to how to get it to upshift and lock the torque converter quick. I think there's adjustment on the throttle linkage over the valve cover but I havent tinkered with that too much because I dont want to mess anything up. Any ideas?
 
I should have mentioned cheap too. But with the hypertech, can you have different "levels" because I just want it to shift say into 2nd at 10-12mph and 3rd by 20 not adjust something like WOT 1-2 shifts at 40 instead of 39 (just for example). Just a general "retraining" of the computer rather than WOT shifting.
 
someone made a shift kit of sorts that allows you to shift when you want. I don't remember what it was called, but it was in the vender section of the Classified forum.

It worked on a push button system that allowed either manual or "auto" shifting.
 
I know about AW4 shifting, but I was looking for some free easy way that just tells the computer to do it sooner rather than buy a kit thats out of my range. I wasnt sure if there was something I could adjust or modify in the computer/linkage or any way to tell the TCU what to do.
 
When accelerating sometimes I take my foot off the gas pedal for a second and then put it back on, and it will shift sooner.....

Then it shifts at a lower RPM....
 
I made this. My AW4 wasnt shifting...even after I tried new shift computers, and changed all 3 solenoids. I can tell it when to shift. I'm sure you can wire up a master power switch to go along with it.

Materials
IMG_1708.jpg


Wiring
IMG_1714.jpg


Front
IMG_1715.jpg


Installed
IMG_1720.jpg


The blue switch lights up when solenoid 1 is on and the red one when solenoid 2 is on.

shifting goes like this...

Sol 1 ON+Sol 2 OFF ---->1st gear
Sol 1 ON+Sol 2 ON ----->2nd gear
Sol 1 OFF+Sol 2 ON ---->3rd gear
Sol 1 OFF+Sol 2 OFF --->4th gear

The little switch controlls the torque converter and the green light indicates when its on/off.

Yes, this works fine, and does not interfere with the NSS or other operations of the truck :)


EDIT: Now that I think about it...this wont really help your application. Sorry bout that :-\
 
That looks pretty cool, you know of any way to have it run only when you want it and then have the computer work for other times? Where do all the wires attach to? I bet I could pay one of the EE's at school a couple bucks and get one made. Technically it would help but this isnt something Id want to DD with, only for fun and experiments (which are becoming more and more plentiful). Would you happen to have a wiring diagram or chart other than the picture of the actual switchboard (im no electrical engineer). Nice work too. Is there any failsafe for if you accidently go into 4th gear locked at 10mph or 1st gear locked at 80mph?
 
BBeach said:
I should have mentioned cheap too. But with the hypertech, can you have different "levels" because I just want it to shift say into 2nd at 10-12mph and 3rd by 20 not adjust something like WOT 1-2 shifts at 40 instead of 39 (just for example). Just a general "retraining" of the computer rather than WOT shifting.

From what I have read here shifting up at those lower speeds is going make your mileage suck big time. I have experimented with doing my stop and go driving, under 40 mph, all in 3rd, or the #3 position on the shifter, and I have tried to keep the rpms up where the power/efficiency curve of the engine is higher and I think I am seeing improved mileage as a result in my stop and go driving. Actually a little more gas peddle and higher rpm shift points ( by giving it more gas (versus babbying the gas peddle), sees=ms to have improved the mileage about 10 to 20% in the city and stop and go area on mine, which is the part that wastes all the gass anyway.

Of course the freeway parking lots at 8am and 5pm, where the higway gas mileage goes to "0" miles/gallons of gas goes to = ZERO:shiver:, it won't make darn bit of difference which gear you are in, LOL
 
Blaine B. said:
Except maybe neutral?
Idling in gear and neutral are about the same. I usually dont have any problems giving it a little gas but I just think it could use a little less slip in the torque converter and its lazy shifting sometimes.
 
Is that the one right above the valve cover? Which way do you adjust it to make the shifts firmer? I adjusted it a little today by pushing in the button and holding the throttle body wide open.
 
lawsoncl said:
Adjusting the tranny cable can firm up the shifts, but not change the shift points.

Properly setting or calibrating it (what ever you want to call it) raised the rpm shift points of mine noticably. All I can figure is the prior owner had worked on the transmission and I guess he forgot to set or do the cable adjustment.

The manual says with the engine off, to push the cable release button, retract the cable self adjusting mechanism all the way (push the cable plunger inward), then release the button, then open the throttle body to wide open, then press the button again, then release the button then release the throttle and you are done. The mechanism self adjusts using this procedure.
 
Blaine B. said:
Is this adjustment on the transmission itself?
No, it's on the rear, firewall side, slightly towards the passenger side of the throttle body, right up top. There should be a picture somewhere in a thread around this forum. I just read it here (I think) a few weeks ago and used it myself.

Found it, see page 7B-4 of a Haynes Jeep manual, it has a picture and the procedure. It is probably listed elsewhere online as well.
 
Last edited:
Ok, if you ever find the directions, that'd be great. I looked at my PDF FSM and didn't see anything, of course "trans 1" was missing...maybe it was explained in that document and it's not in my PDF version ZIP.....whatevs.
 
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