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junkyard lift

wolfmanxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
dixon mo
Anybody here ever try the F-150 coils and S-10 rear springs. on a real tight budget and wanted to know if anyone has any exp. w/ this set up. Any info on how it rides and flexs. Jeep's is a D/D and stock springs are pretty well shot.
 
I have an old beater '84 2.5 so not really worth dumping alot of money into- so I went this route. I purchased spicer '78 f-100 coils (like $50) 2 1/2" spacers and add-a-leaves in rear with MJ shackles. Netted about 4 3/4" in front and about 4" in rear, used Explorer shocks in rear (pain in the butt) and 3" rear xj shocks with racing shock mounts to eliminate bar pin and bayonet style upper mount for the front. Ride is a bit rough, flex is so-so, you get what you pay for- a cheap lift. Used rough country lca's for 4.5" lift completed it, along with homemade sway bar extensions (welded in some tube) and re-located track bar. About $300 for a 4.5" lift isn't bad, it looks good and it works.
 
thanks socratica, those AAl's you used were they junkyard or did you buy them from a manufacturer? Were the coils from a v8 or 6cyl truck or is the rate the same? I've heard the V8 GC coils give 1 1/2" to 2" in 6cyl XJ.
 
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The add-a-leaf kit was from pro-comp, I think I paid like $40 or so. However, an S-10 pack is probably a better idea, for the add a leaf you already have to remove the pack anyway. Might as well build a better riding spring than the AAL can provide you. I purchased 8 cyl. coils and would go a smaller spacer like 2" most folks avoid anything over 2" worth of poly spacing, just like an above post kinda hinted at. Some won't run spacers at all except the stock isolator/spacer. It can be dangerous if you flex alot, coils would be easier to pop out on you at the top. I don't have rocks to flex on here in FL.
That said, others are more knowledgeable than myself and may be able to help you more. Search around and an excellent link has been posted in here before on this exact lift. The bar pin on the explorer shocks has to be ground so that they are open on each end to accept the bolts at the top. The racing shock mounts are hard to find and supposed to welded in, but I simply drilled a hole in them to accept a bolt into the bayonet style attachment at the top and also at the bottom mount.
 
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