Rear Main Pain

Despite my post in OT earlier this morning about going fishing...I figured I'd change the oil as I'm getting ready to go on a road trip in a few days. For some reason I thought it would be a good idea to go ahead and tackle the rear main leak while I was under there. The job went pretty much like the write ups that Jason and GoJeep have done. Things worth mentioning:

1. I thought this job sucked a$$. Not really for the technical aspect but for the pig mess it made.

2. I did have trouble getting the new upper seal in. I probably forced it more than I should have and the internal wire bent. I walked down and got another and decided to put a big fat glob of Syn Glide on the end that goes in the block first. Worked great and slid right in.

3. I had a wierd piece in the motor that both Planefixer and Led were not familiar with when I called them. As soon as I dropped the pan I saw a 2-3 inch wide, flat bar that ran the length of the motor. It had little ears on it that got attached with nuts to the studs that hold the caps in place. In order to gain access to the main cap, I had to remove this thing. Not too big a deal but it was 14 nuts. I was not able to find torque specs on these nuts so I put them at 40. (Not the main cap...that got torqued 40...70...80).

4. Getting the pan back in with the gasket was a PITA. I did use the one piece. It kept falling down in the pan. So I sat there a minute trying to figure out a way to help. I had never heard anyone having trouble with this but I did. I got out my fishing gear and found a spool of 2X tippet. I laid the gasket on the pan and tied it on the pan with the tippet. I figured that when the bolts go in...it's going to break the string and that's fine. Then it was sandwiched between the pan and block. This tippet is very thin and shouldn't pose a problem. It worked great and the pan was finally back in.

That was about it I guess. I'm glad it's over with...I hope it does the trick...and there's no problems. I'm gonna drink beer now and eat nachos.

-river

The longish thing is the main cap brace (I'm assuming you have 1996 or later 4.0? It was added in 1996.) 40 pound-feet sounds about right for torque on that thing - I'd have to look it up to be sure.

There's a reason I say to put the new seal in clean oil before you get started - let it soak, and it goes in LOADS easier! I've done this job a couple times...

I also mention that SBChevvy valve cover studs (the ones for the stamped covers, not cast) are a huge help while you're wrestling with the pan and gasket. You only need four or so - one near each corner. They'll help hold things in place while you get bolts started, and you can hold everything up with one hand while the other is occupied with bolts.

For anyone else doing the job, the one-piece moulded gasket is for 1996 and up, but it should work on all years. I'll know for sure, when I replace the gasket in my 88 (I got a 1996 gasket, to save wrestling...)

5-90

Sorry this got posted in MT...I am tired and intended on putting it in OEM.

Yes the one piece gasket w ill work for all years. Worked great in my '89.

And riverboy - yes you're a moron for putting it in the wrong place :twak:

:cheers: