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Now im one of your guys, just ordered my RE 4.5" spring pack kit!

4

435Mj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
utah
any tips or suggestions on installing/dissasembling the OEM would be wonderfull. i have a 93 XJ with the np231 TC and im going to be running bfg 31X10.5R15. now im one of you guys
 
I take it you ordered a lift kit? if so which 4.5? RE has two with and without full rear leaf packs. Or did you just order a rear leaf pack? you kinda left us hanging on what it is you ordered.
 
xj_toker said:
sry about that its the 6130

http://www.jeepinoutfitters.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=113
Click to expand...

Nice, that's a good kit. For installation make sure you spray PB Blaster or something similar on every single bolt you will be touching during the install. Do this once a day, for the several days ahead of the installation. Make sure you spray the hell out of the rear upper shock studs. You have a little bit older of an XJ so these will be weak and might break. All four of mine did (I have a 96) and it was a major PITA. Other than that it isn't too tricky, make sure you have all the proper tools i.e.; air tools, spring compressors, plenty of jacks, and safety equipment. Also, some friends, refreshments, and FOOD are a good thing to have while doing this. Good luck on the install, and welcome to the dark side.
 
Get some experienced help. Do you have a big enough air compressor and tank to handle a decent size 1/2 impact wrench? Do you have a torch or at least some MAPP gas?

I have a 93, you have a 93. I live in Chicago too. You'll bust AT LEAST the upper rear shock bolts no matter how much PB you use. The front leaf spring bolts will be a bear. If the upper shackle bolts are stuck you'll have to pull up carpet and cut holes in the bed to get at the welded nuts which they screw into. Starting to get the idea....

Next, unless you are putting in a SYE and new DS you will at MINIMUM need the extended YJ slip yoke. Otherwise your DS u-joints will knock during rotation. You'll need a TC drop kit of 1" at a minimum. OK..

Plan on installing about a 6* shim to reorient the rear diff to have decent angles so you don't have bad vibes.

I know this all sound like a downer but what you are doing is the equal to major surgery. PLAN.. BE PATIENT... GET HELP...

Where do you live, I'll be there if I can
 
Rocketman said:
Get some experienced help. Do you have a big enough air compressor and tank to handle a decent size 1/2 impact wrench? Do you have a torch or at least some MAPP gas?

I have a 93, you have a 93. I live in Chicago too. You'll bust AT LEAST the upper rear shock bolts no matter how much PB you use. The front leaf spring bolts will be a bear. If the upper shackle bolts are stuck you'll have to pull up carpet and cut holes in the bed to get at the welded nuts which they screw into. Starting to get the idea....

Next, unless you are putting in a SYE and new DS you will at MINIMUM need the extended YJ slip yoke. Otherwise your DS u-joints will knock during rotation. You'll need a TC drop kit of 1" at a minimum. OK..

Plan on installing about a 6* shim to reorient the rear diff to have decent angles so you don't have bad vibes.

I know this all sound like a downer but what you are doing is the equal to major surgery. PLAN.. BE PATIENT... GET HELP...

Where do you live, I'll be there if I can
Click to expand...

im in park ridge. my brothers the mechanical genius but he might not be around to much due to the fact that he is about to get merried so hes lookin for houses and doing wedding arangmennts. im very green when it comes to this stuff but a buddy of mine is a certified mechanic and i have another gear head hanging around who will help. my brother runs air tools and iv started soaking down the bolts(idk if im getting them all) but anything supention looking im drounding in PB. send me a private message with your screen name if you have one thanks
 
come on there has to be more advise and usefull information for a rookie. dont worry iv been going through the pages too. im at 103 so far.
 
Me too, I literally just bought the 6130 this moning from jeepinoutfitters w/ ome shocks, adjustable upper and lower ca's,hd track bar and some c4x4 hooks. I cant wait!!
 
You Californicate guys don't even know what it's like to tear into a salt eaten, rusty, corroded underbody. The Midwest Jeeps are a different animal because of the Winters. If I had it to do all over again and had the cash, I'd shop around in Texas or California for a rig to mod. I couldn't believe how clean and nice things are underneath.

Hey Toker, WHEN you planning on doing this? I'd like to show up. I'm a great supervisor and consultant. PM me with times and an address. I have some of the specialty tools you will need if you don't. Extra jack stands, Spring compressors, MityVac brake bleeder, 36mm sockets, A Dewalt reciprocating saw and metal blades. I have a spare pair of Rockyroad Outfitters Shock bar pin brackets in case you do pop off the bolts. (probably) I welded mine up instead of bolting them in. Never have to worry about the bolts again. Make sure you have the TORX socket drivers for the front UCA's.

What are your plans for your TC and DS? Drop, SYE. Let me tell you, your lift will be more like 6 or so inches and will only settle a 1/2 inch or so. Even with my 6" I didn't need a SYE. Proper shimming, the longer and cut out slip yoke was all I needed. ALSO, you'll need a new speedo gear for the 231/31" meat so your gauges will be right.

Some things you can do BEFORE you do the lift. Pull off and toss your rear sway bar. (for that matter pull off and clean up your front one too. You can run without it just fine. Just don't do corners at 50mph) Get a longer upper or lower bumpstops for the front or you will smunch your fenders. The ones RE provides aren't quite enough to keep from hitting untrimmed fenders. What size wheels you going to run? I've found with that setup 3.75" backspacing is great. IF you adjust bumpstops right, you'll have no rubbing or binding at full crank.

Loosen up the lower AC line and move it a couple inches away from the sidewall so you don't drill into it when you mount the upper storage pin for the adjustable sway bar links. Plan on removing your tail pipe (not essential) but it makes it easier. Have all you buds bring a box of bolts nuts washers etc... EVERYTHING will be rusty and you'll want to replace.

Oh well, my novel is done for today...

Good luck, hope to see and meet another MWC wheeler.
 
Last edited:
Rocketman said:
You Californicate guys don't even know what it's like to tear into a salt eaten, rusty, corroded underbody.
Click to expand...
Oh bite me ;) ..... When my Dad got his jeep in CA it turned out it was was originally from Utah and every single bolt in the suspension had to be drilled out and both nuts for the front spring hangers had to be rosette welded back into the framerail and the fronts of the springs had to be cut and rubber burned away cause the inner sleeve was seized to the bolt!!! Oh yeah, and the rust wasn't visible either!
 
Just bustin balls... you have to admit though... West Coast rigs are much better to work on generally.

I had to burn out all four bushings on my leafs and cut the bolts. Even had to weld a nut to the remainder of the front bolt and heat the hell out of it to get it to turn. Luckliy, didn't have to cut into the frame to get at the nuts. The best money ever spent tool-wise was for the reciprocating saw. Cuts through a hardened 14mm spring bolt pretty quick.

Toker, make sure you have more than a couple 21mm and 22mm sockets and wrenches, preferably 1/2" drive. 18's 17's also needed in quantity.

Worried yet???
 
Rocketman said:
You Californicate guys don't even know what it's like to tear into a salt eaten, rusty, corroded underbody. The Midwest Jeeps are a different animal because of the Winters. If I had it to do all over again and had the cash, I'd shop around in Texas or California for a rig to mod. I couldn't believe how clean and nice things are underneath.

Hey Toker, WHEN you planning on doing this? I'd like to show up. I'm a great supervisor and consultant. PM me with times and an address. I have some of the specialty tools you will need if you don't. Extra jack stands, Spring compressors, MityVac brake bleeder, 36mm sockets, A Dewalt reciprocating saw and metal blades. I have a spare pair of Rockyroad Outfitters Shock bar pin brackets in case you do pop off the bolts. (probably) I welded mine up instead of bolting them in. Never have to worry about the bolts again. Make sure you have the TORX socket drivers for the front UCA's.

What are your plans for your TC and DS? Drop, SYE. Let me tell you, your lift will be more like 6 or so inches and will only settle a 1/2 inch or so. Even with my 6" I didn't need a SYE. Proper shimming, the longer and cut out slip yoke was all I needed. ALSO, you'll need a new speedo gear for the 231/31" meat so your gauges will be right.

Some things you can do BEFORE you do the lift. Pull off and toss your rear sway bar. (for that matter pull off and clean up your front one too. You can run without it just fine. Just don't do corners at 50mph) Get a longer upper or lower bumpstops for the front or you will smunch your fenders. The ones RE provides aren't quite enough to keep from hitting untrimmed fenders. What size wheels you going to run? I've found with that setup 3.75" backspacing is great. IF you adjust bumpstops right, you'll have no rubbing or binding at full crank.

Loosen up the lower AC line and move it a couple inches away from the sidewall so you don't drill into it when you mount the upper storage pin for the adjustable sway bar links. Plan on removing your tail pipe (not essential) but it makes it easier. Have all you buds bring a box of bolts nuts washers etc... EVERYTHING will be rusty and you'll want to replace.

Oh well, my novel is done for today...

Good luck, hope to see and meet another MWC wheeler.
Click to expand...


ok so i think im pretty good on the tools but it never hurts to be perpaired. i run air wrenches and that sort of thing and we have cut off wheel attachments and a blow torch,have the stuff to bleed the breaks, 2 sets of jack stands and a floor jack. we prolly have any socket needed regular and impackt strength. and a saw-zal...idk about blades. we have torx bits and socket wrenches. i dont think i really have extra bolts...can you give me a list of one ill prolly be replacing so i can have em here and ready?

as for the speedo gear how much dose that run.

im using stock 15X7 rims....what is involved in back spacing?

as for the sye and cv. i want to be able to get away w/o one if possible by shiming abd dropping the TC but i dont wana do the HnT id rather spend the money to do the job correctly if its needed. so im trying to buy my kit/ties/sye and cv all at one so it can all go on in a weekend. id rather just be able to shim it and hope for the best so ill have a pair of shims ready too. hope i can get thos somewhere local. dont wana wait or pay for shipping.

idk about the date yet cause im still buying parts and my kits just got ordered yesterday. i want to make sure everythings here and ready. if i have shit i didnt use i can always return it. but id like to do the least amount of scrambling around for parts the day of.

and PB is in full affect
 
Rocketman said:
Just bustin balls... you have to admit though... West Coast rigs are much better to work on generally.

I had to burn out all four bushings on my leafs and cut the bolts. Even had to weld a nut to the remainder of the front bolt and heat the hell out of it to get it to turn. Luckliy, didn't have to cut into the frame to get at the nuts. The best money ever spent tool-wise was for the reciprocating saw. Cuts through a hardened 14mm spring bolt pretty quick.

Toker, make sure you have more than a couple 21mm and 22mm sockets and wrenches, preferably 1/2" drive. 18's 17's also needed in quantity.

Worried yet???
Click to expand...

the only thing im worried about is my inexperance. but it will be a good learing experance......i think im going to go PB my car.
 
I'll get you the P/N's of the bolts you'll really want to replace and will have to as well as the speedo gear for 31's
 
hey rocketman do you have a IM screen name? cause i have a feeling im going to learn alot from you and id love it if you were able to lend a hand on the build up. you seem to be a good resourse. ill buy the beer
 
14mm 10.9 grade leaf spring, lower control arm, shackle bolts.
3420 2118 ($7 each)

Deformed thread lock nuts for above
1150 2814 ($2 from dealer, I prefer a 14mm NYLOCK nut however, deformed nuts can be a BITCH)

Speedo gear for 31's and 3.73 gearing
5206 7633
Speedo gear for 31's and 3.55 gearing
5206 7632

All can be had at the dealer or online. If you go to Naperville Jeep (Ogden Ave, just East of Naperville Rd.) and in parts talk to Dave. Tell him you know me (Rob Pettey) and I sent you in for parts, he'll give em to you below list. "DON'T say that outloud there though"

Parts can also be had fairly cheap from Ted at Lou's Jeep Sales in Geneva (Mom and Pop used Jeep dealer) Rt38, just East of the river.
 
xj_toker said:
hey rocketman do you have a IM screen name? cause i have a feeling im going to learn alot from you and id love it if you were able to lend a hand on the build up. you seem to be a good resourse. ill buy the beer
Click to expand...

Caffiene Free Diet Coke... PIZZA is a no brainer though!!
 
Rocketman said:
Caffiene Free Diet Coke... PIZZA is a no brainer though!!
Click to expand...

pop and pizza....CHECK! no instant messanger servise i take it? will he know to give me the right amount of everything? like 2 of each or whatever
 
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