D35...what should I do?

Goatman · Dec 21, 2004

Being the Xmas season and all, I thought I'd give all those people who like to post "get an 8.8" another chance to do so. Heck I didn't even have to put D35 in the title, they'll just about say that no matter what the topic.

Oh, and this also give Brett another opportunity to say "go get a Toyota axle".

Merry Christmas, and post away, :looser:

P.S. Now we'll see how many respond to this without reading the first post.......

crazyoffroader · Dec 21, 2004

4 ton Dana mabey?(I don't know the #)
I've got one out back with 7.10 gears in it, plus it will NEVER break.
I don't know what you'd do about the front but hey, it's a start.

Jes · Dec 21, 2004

Go Super35 or go home!

David Taylor · Dec 21, 2004

What about a a trussed 35 with a spool(if they make one). With ff 30 spline
axles for a super light weight rig ?

Nihil · Dec 21, 2004

Haha, that reminds me. The other day I saw a YJ on 35's. The truss he had on that D35 almost HIT THE GROUND!

David Taylor said:
What about a a trussed 35 with a spool(if they make one). With ff 30 spline
axles for a super light weight rig ?

Ludakris · Dec 21, 2004

Unimog 404's with disc conversion...
Volvo Portals?
Dakota Chrysler 9.25.
Titan D44 thing.
Just heat treat the D35, I read you can heat it up with a torch and soak it with cold water.. indestructable then.. :wierd:
I saw a John Deere with some nice looking axles, lots o ground clearance with those tractor tires...
another D35 that you get for $30...

Goatman · Dec 21, 2004

I saw on the Internet where you can freeze an axle, they call it cyrogenics. It's supposed to make a D35 as strong as an 8.8. Is that a good idea?

Ludakris · Dec 21, 2004

I hadnt thought about that.. I am going to have to clean out some room in the freezer for that... once I weld the spiders up, I will freeze it.. oh wait, yesterday it was 5 degrees... looks like the cryogenics thing is taken care of..

Old Nascar guys said that if you leave an engine block out to rust for a few years, then machine it, it is stronger... Looks like I am well on the way to testing this theory as well...

I have a c-clipless d35, I am going to machine it for 8.8 c-clips.. that will make it stronger for sure..

All I need now is the sheild and "S" on the cover of it.. then it will be a "SUPER 35"....

bgcntry72 · Dec 21, 2004

How about retubing a HP30 for rear steer?
Light weight, unbeatable ground clearance, and if built right, they are as strong as a 44, supposedly.
HTH.

crazyoffroader · Dec 21, 2004

bgcntry72 said:
How about retubing a HP30 for rear steer?
Light weight, unbeatable ground clearance, and if built right, they are as strong as a 44, supposedly.
HTH.

I thought about doing this, but the u-joints are the weakpoint...

bgcntry72 · Dec 21, 2004

crazyoffroader said:
I thought about doing this, but the u-joints are the weakpoint...

Or the pinion.
Especially with deeper gears.
YMMV.

Beezil · Dec 21, 2004

Goatman the troll.

who woulda thunk it?

:dunno:

goodburbon · Dec 21, 2004

how about one of those new honda CRV independent setups, those look really strong.

Ludakris · Dec 21, 2004

goodburbon said:
how about one of those new honda CRV independent setups, those look really strong.

good thought... how bout a Dana 174 out of an Escape.. sure its only got a 6.85" Ring gear... But a 174 is a higher # than a 35 so it must be better.. CV's are strong... and think of the articulation...

goodburbon · Dec 21, 2004

hell yeah, then get some custom machined toothpicks......I mean um, axles with slip joints between cv-joints for that added articulation.

RichP · Dec 21, 2004

We got a tree farm down the road with half dozen 2 1/2 and 5 tons just sitting there that they grab engine parts from, could buy one or two of whats under them...have to convert the air brakes to discs though...

MudDawg · Dec 21, 2004

PSSSSSSSTTTT!!! (whispering so it stays secret)....A rear outta '71 Vega...they are hard to find cause they got scarfed up already to go in top fuel cars.

Pete M · Dec 21, 2004

I posted these numbers in another topic, but figured this would help show "why" the 8.8 is such a good option (other than the width is real close and they can be had with 4.10s, posi, and disks with a 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern).

Dana 30 frontaxle COT: 640 MOT: 2350
Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500

Sorry, no numbers for the Chrysler 8.25, Ford 9" or AMC-20 Anybody got those?

COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating
Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler (with the typo on the Dana 44's MOT fixed) page 60.

Notice that: 225 ftlbs x 3.83 = 861 ftlbs (4.0L + AX-15 in 1st gear)
Jeep on!
--Pete

Goatman · Dec 21, 2004

crazyoffroader said:
I thought about doing this, but the u-joints are the weakpoint...

Not if you used CTM's or OX joints. Then with a Super 30 kit with 30 sp shafts you're as strong as a D44.........with rear steer and amazing ground clearance. Wow, this is a good idea, I think I'll put one of these in my MJ when I tube it out. It should hold up to 37's, and look at the ground clearance and light weight.

D60's are obsolete......

Jes · Dec 21, 2004

Have you thought about the venerable HP Dana35 for the front?

D35...what should I do?

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