Locking Rocker Arm Studs

Does anyone know of a company that makes lockable rocker arms studs for the 4.0 (like the kind that have the allen head bolt on top)? I've finished my 4.6 rebuild with a Comp Cams Xtreme 4x4 cam, and the rocker arm bolts on the #3 cylinder keep coming loose (I've had to retorque them twice after about only 300 miles on the engine). Anyone had this problem before?

Or, if this isn't an option, where's the cheapest place to go for roller rockers?

Have you tried cleaning the threads well and using some red locktite?

Steve

I haven't done that, but it may be the best way to go.

Thanks

The 4.0L is basically an AMC engine design, and AMC typically did not use locking rocker arm studs. They are designed to be tightened to the flat shoulder on the stud and torqued. I can't imagine why one would loosen up if it was set to he correct torque, but Murphys is alive and loose in the world.

I'd go along with Willis, except I thought red Loc-Tite was for things you didn't want to take apart ... ever again. I tend to use blue Loc-Tite for everything that doesn't rate Never-Seez, just because when you keep vehicles as long as I do, anything that gets worked on once is likely to get worked on again.

Since we don't use studs, I suggest the application of LocTite 242 for the rocker bolts. That's strong enough to retain the bolts, while allowing you to take the valvetrain to bits later without the use of massive "persuader" bars or the "blue wrench."

In fact, the use of 242 through most of the engine isn't a bad idea - the only bolts I wouldn't use it on that I tend to want to stay put are the combination manifold bolts, I use LT272 for that (or is it 277? It's the high-temperature medium strength variant, and I can't say enough about it on the 4.0 manifolds!)

The "maintenance bolts" (thermostat, valve covers, and such) should get never-seez if they are "dry" or teflon paste if they are "wet."

5-90

I use red lock-tite nearly everday. Timing tensioner pulleys, flywheel bolts, and quite a bit of stuff. It says on the bottle something like "heat or excessive force to remove". I've never had any problem removing it. The bolts still brake away at the same torque, but no longer free spin out. You must drive them out the entire way. I used to use blue on everything, only used red for the "permanent" stuff. Then one of my co-workers (we're Ferrari Technicians mind you) turned me onto the red with a demonstration of the two colors side by side. The only difference I noticed (after letting it dry a couple days) was the turning resistance once the bolt was broken loose. It took more to turn the red out, but not "excessive force" by any means.

Steve