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Need some stroker advice!!!!

Jeepedo129

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Henderson, NV
A friend and I have been building an engine for his 95 jeep XJ and are having.... Technical issues. :dunno:This is our second attempt at building the engine, the first ran ok, but had overheating problems and a pinging issue, so it ultimately ruined the engine. Now we have started fresh with mostly new parts except connecting Rods and crank but this time the engine won't start at all. It turns over and we only get random pops, so it's not igniting the fuel. We pulled plugs to check spark, and we are getting a fat white spark. Timing on the distributor was triple checked and just for kicks we chopped the tangs off and tried retarding and advancing the ignition with no luck. We tried adjusting the fuel pressure we tried from 44 psi all the way down to 10 psi and still no change. The next thing we are going to check is the internal timing of the cam to the crank even though we are 99% sure it's lined up correct. I've spent hours online researching the problem but I can't find anything of real value. I tried talking to other forums with no help from anyone, even jeepstrokers.com. I'm running out of options and ideas.

Here is what I know of his engine.

'89 block bored .040"
'95 head stock with new valves and valve job
4.2 crank '90
4.2 Con Rods
Stock 4.0 pistons matched .040"
252h-10 Comp cam
Dur @ .50: (206 int) (206 exh)
99+ intake manifold
Ford Motorsport injectors 24 lb/hr @ 44 psi
Hesco fuel regulator
Fel pro gasket kit
HG compressed .051
Harland sharp roller rockers
MSD coil
Champion plugs

Compression should be around 9.9:1
Running 91 octane
I just wanted to see if there was anyone that may be able to give some advice. Thanks in advance for your insight!:peace:
 
Thank you for the correction.

A few other things I though of. Where did the injectors come from? Salvage yard?

Has the coil been checked? CPS?

What is the preload on the lifters?
 
Haha thanks Jeff, still a newb to this forum but learning.

Sorry for the confusing posts, thanks for cleaning it up.

As far as indexing the distrib, we followed that website you posted when we first installed the engine with no results, we cut the tangs off the distributor and tried advancing and retarding the ignition with no luck.

The only test we've done on the coil is stick a plug in the wire and ground it and watch for a spark which we had a fat white spark.

The injectors are new from summit racing's eBay store. I believe they are the Ford Motorsport 24 Lb/hr @ 44 psi. They are peach in color.

I didn't assemble the valve train, so I don't know what the preload is on the lifters, I'll talk with my buddy and see what he did.
 
Now we have started fresh with mostly new parts except connecting Rods and crank but this time the engine won't start at all. It turns over and we only get random pops, so it's not igniting the fuel. We pulled plugs to check spark, and we are getting a fat white spark. Timing on the distributor was triple checked and just for kicks we chopped the tangs off and tried retarding and advancing the ignition with no luck.

The next thing we are going to check is the internal timing of the cam to the crank even though we are 99% sure it's lined up correct.

Definitely worth checking the cam timing to rule that out as a potential culprit, but I think it's more likely that your distributor is near 180* off.
 
We are going to tear into it this weekend hopefully and check the cam. If that's good we'll try retiming the mag again and see where that takes us. Other than that I'm not sure where to go from there.
 
Definitely worth checking the cam timing to rule that out as a potential culprit, but I think it's more likely that your distributor is near 180* off.

Me, too.



Setting Your 4.0 at #1 TDC
 
With #1 spark plug removed, turn the engine over clockwise using the 3/4" front crankshaft bolt. You will see the degree marks on your front cover. Mark the 0 with chalk or white-out.You will see the timing mark on the balancer. Mark it with chalk or white-out. While turning the engine over, put your finger/thumb over #1 spark plug hole. As the mark on the balancer approaches the marks on the front cover, if you are coming up on #1 TDC, pressure in the cylinder will push on your finger. If there's no pressure, you're at #6 TDC and need to crank the engine over until you see the marks coming together and you get pressure. Set the mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the front cover.
 
Ya we've done that and the engine wasn't firing, we triple checked the distrib timing is I know we got that right when we did it.
 
1) Make all the sensors are plugged along with the vacuum line to the MAP sensor.

2) I would check preload on the lifters. Too much will hold a valve open.

3) I'd replace the CPS with a known good one. They tend to get bumped when installing an engine, which can damage them. I did that once. Now I just pull the CPS prior.

4) I would swap the stock injectors back in. I doubt stuck injectors, but who know how long they could have been sitting on the shelf for.

5) Pull the timing cover and check the timing. You may want to use a degree wheel and make sure the cam is where is should be. Depending on which timing set you used it can be easy to be off a tooth.

Your coil sounds good from the test you did.
 
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