lock-rite or mini spool?

Not sure which way to go here. I'm looking for strength and value. I have an 85% trail rig with 31's, but soon to be 33's. It has a lock-rite in the front, and a trash lock in the D44. That is part of the catch, if I go mini spool, I need an open carrier. I don't believe my axle has the id tag on it, will I need this if I need to find an open carrier? Also, if I need to switch carriers, I'll need to setup the ring and pinion, correct? I was thinking strength wise, and value the mini was the way to go, but now I'm not sure!! As you can tell I'm kind of new to the world of differentials. My experience consists of 1 lock rite install, and one powertrax no slip install. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

My opinion mini spools are a waste of money. just weld it if you don't trust yourself to weld it or don't have the tools then most 4x4 or machine shops will do it for around $25. As for the strength the mini spool doesnt give you any it is made to be the weak link in the rear so you will break it instead of an axle supposedly. I got mine welded on a 100% daily driver and trail rig.
HTH

they're not designed to be the weak link, it just ends up being that way, I busted my mini and I also twisted my 9" shaft at the same time, I would have rather just busted a shaft then both. I now have a full spool, much stronger. I recommend the full spool over welding, but there will be many people to reply that will disagree with me cuz the welding works for them. Welding is cheap and easy, and it works for a while.

Full Spool.

Like I said before, I have some experience with diffs., but not alot. How hard is it to install a full spool? Does it basically replace the carrier, and you just have to bolt the ring gear to it? Will the gears need to be "set-up", I don't have any experience at that, but some of my friends do. The biggest tire I will run will be 33's (at least for quite some time), should I just install the lock rite, sounds like that may be easier. If I do go with a lock rite, regearing to 4.56's won't be a problem will it, I thought someone told me that with a lock rite, the gearing doesn't matter? TIA

if you install a 'lunch box' type locker you won't have to have the gears set up again, as you won't be removing the carrier, if you regear you will have to have them set up. A full spool you will also have to have the gears set up again. I broke my mini when running 36's, 5.42 gears and I was gettin on it when it happened.

I ran a lunch box for a long time with 33's and it never broke, this was in my corp 8.25

Not sure if I want to tackle a spool... yet

jb98xj said:

Like I said before, I have some experience with diffs., but not alot. How hard is it to install a full spool? Does it basically replace the carrier, and you just have to bolt the ring gear to it? Will the gears need to be "set-up", I don't have any experience at that, but some of my friends do. The biggest tire I will run will be 33's (at least for quite some time), should I just install the lock rite, sounds like that may be easier. If I do go with a lock rite, regearing to 4.56's won't be a problem will it, I thought someone told me that with a lock rite, the gearing doesn't matter? TIA

Click to expand...

You said you're looking for value, then I say to get the locker. A spool will wear your tires quicker than a locker, so any money you save between the spool and the locker will be used up (and more) in tires over a period of time. A spool is only cheaper in the short run, you really need to run a spool just because you'd rather live with 100% reliability and no locker quirkiness on the street, but are willing to live with accelerated tire wear. The reliability part isn't as true with a welded diff, as often times the welds or carrier eventually break.

The locker won't wear the tires any more than having no locker, but will pop now and then and push you a little in corners occasionally. Many people live with automatic lockers (many more than spools) and have no problems with the lockers handling characteristics. Unfortunately, you can't install a Lockright in the Trac Loc carrier, so you need an open carrier no matter what you do......locker or mini-spool.

Yeah, I'd say for the short term just weld it. No set up, barely any disassembly and cheap cheap cheap.

Although I've only welded one of my trucks so far and didn't have enough street time on it to see how catastrophically it would fail, I'm pretty confident that it would have outlasted an axel shaft. It was almost a big blob of metal by the time my friend was done with it. Just buy used tires and watch the savings roll in.

So I guess I'm not really losing anything by welding it for now, at least until I get an open carrier and a locker. Does anybody know of a good write up for the welding a diff.? I have a general idea what needs to be done, but I'd like to get some more knowledge on this matter. Anybody have an open carrier they are looking to get rid of for D44? Thanks for all the input guys.

Here is a pic of mine

And here is the thread http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13582&highlight=welded+my+rear

I just welded my 3.55gears since I already had some 4.56s in the garage ready to install I just did this to see if I wanted it or not. So far I like it and will be going full spool when I do the gear swap this winter. As for ther open carrier why do you need one. what do you have now mine was the trac lock and it welds just the same. Plus you said 85% trail rig so tire wear wont be that big of an issue. I drive about 50 miles a day and will notice some wear on my tires but that is why they make cheap tires I will have street set and trail set. HTH
DIG IT

I was just asking about an open carrier incase I don't like it welded, or if it breaks and I want to go with a lock rite or something. I think it will hold up though, I'm not very hard on the skinny pedal, plus right not I'm running 31's. What the heck, I'll give welding it a try and see how I like. I'll post a review after I weld it and test it out. Thanks again for all of the help!