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Jeep shuts off when wheeling...

Alboy97XJ

Nevada Raisins
NAXJA Member
Location
Reno
97xj 4.0 auto btw.... We'll this started last year at rubicon going up caddy... It seems that when I'm wheeling and generating a lot of heat my jeep will die and not restart until cooled down for a bit... The last few time I tried a few things... I checked at the fuel rail to see if I had fuel... Try and relieve pressure at it to find the rail ha a lot of air in it... Had some fuel(which was foamy) in the rail but a lot of air... So I would cycle the ignition and relieve the air out of it... Got most the air outa it and it would fire up but would have to keep Rpms up or jeep would sputter and die....


Ideas?
I have plenty of fuel...
Fuel pressure is fine when I checked it at home....
Could it be a fuel pump?
Asd relay?
 
Also if I just put some starting fluid in it the jeep will usually fire right up with throttle... Then have to hold rpms up for a while till it clears up...
 
Sounds like the classic heat soak. I read that insulating the injectors and fuel rail will help. Chrysler even had a TSB on it. Others have vented the hood, either louvers or spacers at the hinge. Something to let the heat out of the engine bay.
 
97 shouldn't be in the "hot soak" or "heat soak" range covered by TSB NUMBER: 8-031-03 GROUP: Vehicle Performance DATE: Sep. 05, 2003, which applies only to the 2000-2001 XJs.

Aeration of the fuel indicates some type of cavitation in the fuel supply system, possibly a split hose inside the fuel tank.
 
Hey Allen,

You considered hood vents and wrapping the injectors ? Have you tested the fuel pump and relay? checked wiring for bad crimps, or something that moves or rubs when in 4 lo ? Is it only going uphill with a very low tank of gas?
 
It's only when I am working the jeep hard in 4lo wheeling... It stays at 210.... Ima wrap the injectors tomorrow and will look for some hood vents
 
You are running 39s on 3.55s, so I would imagine you are working that thing pretty hard. i would imagine heat wrap and injector tape and Hood vents are justifiable on any rig anyway. as well as some hood spacers, i used some random hex nuts to space the rear part of the hood a half inch. Check all wiring from the fuel pump and clean it , and clean all connections and grounds, it cant hurt can it ? and the ASD relay might not be a bad thing to check out and clean contacts.

Is your efan on a switch? so you can leave it on ?
 
You might look for an exhaust leak blowing on a bad spot too.
 
No exhaust leaks... This is what I did today.....
uma6evet.jpg
pajazagy.jpg
 
We'll that didn't solve the issue... Would the exhaust dumping by the tank cause it to get hot and foam up and get air in the line?
 
We'll that didn't solve the issue... Would the exhaust dumping by the tank cause it to get hot and foam up and get air in the line?

Yes, I would check the entire exhaust any place it gets near the fuel lines.

I would also get and use an IR temp tester and use it to look for hot spots!!!!

Are you sure it a fuel problem this time, and not the CPS? Is the fuel rail still showing bubbles?

We have had many reports of the plastic-rubber fuel lines on the pump in the tank going bad, some think it is ethanol in the gas eating them. Have you actually tested fuel pressure yet, before, during and after the problem?
 
My pipe dumps off after the diff and may be blowing right to the tank.... I don't think it's the cps because I can bleed the rail of air and it will fire but miss for a while until it cools down....
 
CPS maybe getting too hot too. But sure sounds like a gas feed problem. That exhaust should not be blowing on anything near the gas tank, and keep in mind that heat rises, so it will rise back to the gas tank on steep climb angles, or go the wrong way under the hood at very slow crawl speeds while climbing steep grades.
 
I'm going to fix the exhaust and see if it works... I can imagine that the exhaust dumping to the tank isn't good for the fuel system
 
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