1975Ironhead
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Erin, Tennessee
getting ready to swap my lp 30 for a hp30 , and going to install new coils while I have it apart. what else will I need?
-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
bought new re 4.5"coils , what else will I need
- Thread starter 1975Ironhead
- Start date
1975Ironhead
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Erin, Tennessee
No, sorry. I currently have 3" pucks up front, but everything is stock.
1975Ironhead
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Erin, Tennessee
Thanks for the info, gonna do S10 bastard pack on rear.
dirtweazle
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- So Cal
Long arms, 4.6 stroker, 35's, coilovers and 3 link for rear and ditch the leafs, ARB's or Detroit's... You know you want to, its inevitable.. Stop taking baby steps and play leap frog with the rest. 
VAhasnoWAVES
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake City, Mi
i have the 4.5" RE coils. have had them for almost 4 years now. great product.
youll want an adjustable track bar, extended break lines, longer sway bar links, lower control arms, and shocks. id also add uppers to the list, but they arent mandetory.
like the uppers, control arm drop brackets arent needed, but are very nice. there are cheaper alternatives like redrilling your axle side track bar mount to use the stock track bar, using some sort of spacer to reuse your shocks (there are also OTC direct replacements, youll have to look around or get chummy with the parts guy), or relocating your stock break lines. there are a lot of write ups. but youll never be dissapointed with quality parts.
id also suggest adjustable uppers versus fixed. this will let you use the stock castor adjuster to adjust wheel base (only talking a small amount) and use your adjustable uppers to help keep castor in spec. adjustable lowers really arent needed.
youll want an adjustable track bar, extended break lines, longer sway bar links, lower control arms, and shocks. id also add uppers to the list, but they arent mandetory.
like the uppers, control arm drop brackets arent needed, but are very nice. there are cheaper alternatives like redrilling your axle side track bar mount to use the stock track bar, using some sort of spacer to reuse your shocks (there are also OTC direct replacements, youll have to look around or get chummy with the parts guy), or relocating your stock break lines. there are a lot of write ups. but youll never be dissapointed with quality parts.
id also suggest adjustable uppers versus fixed. this will let you use the stock castor adjuster to adjust wheel base (only talking a small amount) and use your adjustable uppers to help keep castor in spec. adjustable lowers really arent needed.
Last edited:
souske
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The land of competition
Sye
1975Ironhead
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Erin, Tennessee
Just a question..... Would a track bar relocation bracket get me by till I get the extra $ to do it the correct way?
VAhasnoWAVES
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake City, Mi
are you talking frame side or axle side?
frame side brackets are used to orientate an aftermarker track bar in the double sheer position with a bushing or hard joint like a heim or JJ.
axle side brackets are useless. if you want to get by for a little while on a stock bar, your best bet is to drill a new hole in the existing mount once you have recentered the axle.
disclaimer***
flexing out a rig with the stock TRE style track bar will tear it up rather quickly, but you should be fine with street driving. it will also limit your flex when the passenger side droops.
frame side brackets are used to orientate an aftermarker track bar in the double sheer position with a bushing or hard joint like a heim or JJ.
axle side brackets are useless. if you want to get by for a little while on a stock bar, your best bet is to drill a new hole in the existing mount once you have recentered the axle.
disclaimer***
flexing out a rig with the stock TRE style track bar will tear it up rather quickly, but you should be fine with street driving. it will also limit your flex when the passenger side droops.
XJOFFROAD
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Washington State
this thread makes me laugh.
its like asking, I bought a dead bolt for a house, what do I need to build the rest of the house?
its like asking, I bought a dead bolt for a house, what do I need to build the rest of the house?
Darky
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- 29 Palms, CA
Wait to do the lift until you have the money saved to do it right.
You'll want all the above mentioned things: LCAs, track bar, brake lines, SYE most likely since your rig is apparently a 97+, rear springs, longer shocks, etc etc. Look up what RE sells w/their kit and what is recommended on the forums.
You'll want all the above mentioned things: LCAs, track bar, brake lines, SYE most likely since your rig is apparently a 97+, rear springs, longer shocks, etc etc. Look up what RE sells w/their kit and what is recommended on the forums.
1975Ironhead
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Erin, Tennessee
That's cool laugh it up. But thanks for the input from everyone else.
XJLI
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Island, NY
didnt you post this on cherokeeforum? dont expect us to hold your hand every time you turn a wrench like they try to do over there. adding lift is a common thing, and there are a billion threads on what is needed/recommended once you hit a certain lift height.
ktm racer 419
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- ROW DIALIN
go buy a 4.5" lift kit and have them keep the coils.
or look at what comes in a 4.5" lift and gather all those parts.
or look at what comes in a 4.5" lift and gather all those parts.
Yeah, it sounds harsh but what you really needs is a quality 4.5" kit without the coils. When I did mine about 5 yrs ago I went with RE. Plenty of other good choices nowdays.
At 3" on say 31's you can get by pretty cheap but at 4.5 on say 33's or bigger there are a lot of issues that need to be addressed. Some people will build a beater without addressing the issues but it's not the same as done "right."
Pulling 33's you'll need to regear, get rid of a dana35 if you got it and add lockers if you want it to perform like it looks capable of.
I'm not a build snob... I've had a dozen or so Jeeps, wheeled the piss outta stock rigs, and gone places on 31's many didn't think was possible.
At 3" on say 31's you can get by pretty cheap but at 4.5 on say 33's or bigger there are a lot of issues that need to be addressed. Some people will build a beater without addressing the issues but it's not the same as done "right."
Pulling 33's you'll need to regear, get rid of a dana35 if you got it and add lockers if you want it to perform like it looks capable of.
I'm not a build snob... I've had a dozen or so Jeeps, wheeled the piss outta stock rigs, and gone places on 31's many didn't think was possible.
VAhasnoWAVES
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake City, Mi
im a fan of 4.5" with 31s and no trimming...
once trimmed, 31s start to look small.
once trimmed, 31s start to look small.
