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WJ knuckle swap drag link TRE?

truck7575

truck7575

NAXJA Forum User
Location
georgetown
I have completed the WJ knuckle swap and I am trying to hook up my steering link from the pittman arm to the passenger side knuckle. I have the JKS drag link bar specifically for the swap but I am not really sure which combination of TRE's I should use because I have also done a tie rod flip on the tie rod and drag link. All the left hand and right hand threads and bends this way and that way have my head spinning. Anybody with this combo of parts know exactly which TRE's you used (Tie rod pass or driver, pittman arm or pass steer)

Thanks
Rick
 
Dude, are you going to make a new thread for every component to this swap? lol

ES2234R Right hand thread 1-ton tre
ES2234L Left hand thread 1-ton tre

They have a 7/8 - 18 thread.

What else would you like to know?
 
So does the ES2234R Right hand thread 1-ton tre fit the WJ tie rod where the bolt goes thru the knuckle? 52088512 is actually the part I need and I need it by tonight so that isnt going to work so I am wondering if the One ton end will require any further modification other than the Goferit inserts? Im suppose to leave for a trip in the morning and I have to atleast get something temporary on tonight... any ideas? If the one ton end will fit the JKS drag link and it is straight and no mods to knuckle it should work i think, atleast temporarily.
 
The one-ton GM ends are 7/8-14, the WJ stuff is metric 24-1.5. The GM piece also has a larger taper that you'll need to ream the knuckles for.

All of this info in on this site and countless others. Do a Google search for WJ tie rod flip/brake swap.

And if you can't get it right, skip the trip. Don't half ass it.
 
I think I'll just order he right part and cut the welds on my tie rod inserts and put them in from underneath and reinstall everything under the knuckle for my trip then do the flip when the right part comes in. Thanks for all the help guys the reason I post vs search sometimes is cause I'm at work and the question pops in my head and I post it.. Thx for putting up with me. :)
 
Didn't you have to drill out the knuckles to fit the welded insterts?

A man much wiser than myself once said a temporary solution quickly becomes permanent. :)

If you are able to make it work, just make sure you fab up your trackbar to match the flipped draglink. BUt I get the feeling you didn't modify that yet?
 
There are multiple huge threads on this, including posts with all the parts needed and a few guys that have done OTK as well. Not hard to find, I know at least one is in the first two pages of this section.
 
I guess I shoulda read them more closely then. I wasnt aware that I needed he right hand drive jeep grand tie rod to do the swap... Guess that means I suck but I am where I am and I am going to the gorge come he'll or high water his weekend. The only other solution I have thought of is sliding an XJ tie rod end into the jks drag link and welding it in place. This would work because it's not bent which is what's fouling me up. I am hesitant to modify the brand new bar though and like u said short term fixes tend to become permanent ones. Ideas anyone on doing this?
 
Have you reworked your trackbar to match yet? If not, just install your stock steering and go wheeling for the day.

edit: Did you just say you were going to weld your XJ tie rod into your $100 drag link so you can go wheeling? Haha! I'm done helping. :D
 
My stock XJ stuff won't work since I've done the knuckle swap but I'm gonna cut it down to right length then weld it up and use it for this trip till I get the right part in
 
:doh:


Dude, seriously? How many times you gunna ask questions about all this? You shoulda had everything figured out BEFORE you got into it.




For OTK, you need to source the RHD draglink, axle end TRE for the setup to work properly. Even OTK, the crappy operating angle of the WJ draglink end at the pitman arm is gunna bind like hell. UTK will just make it worse and most likely be binding at ride height on a jeep lifted like 5"+.

Or do what Lowrange said a ditch the WJ draglink and go to a 1ton draglink, much more operating angle. After doing my old WJ setup, I wish I had gone with the 1ton draglink the first time around.


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Thanks for the advice.... Id like to say that I prefer answers to questions if u want to help me. I really don't appreciate getting reamed for asking questions. I don't have time to sit around And search for 20 minutes for a quick question and I don't hunk there is anything wrong with asking for opinions. Thank you I appreciate your feedback
 
Do you plan on keeping this rig on the road or offroad only? I finally went to all heims and it binds sooomuch LESS!

I custom built 1.5" dom links with the part numbers I listed way up top. They didn't bind noticably but I pretty much trashed the tres on both ends of the drag link everytime I wheeled hard. You might as well go ahead and buy some extras. Expecially if you use wj ends.
 
See, Xjeeper is using pretty much the same TRE as me, E2234R and E2234L, except he has the fancy offset ones that TERA makes. :) That really would have made a difference. I never was able to fit sway bar links back in there after I did my swap.

I just see the point in doing this swap if you're not going to BEEF up the steering.
 
I did the swap for increased braking performance. I also swapped in rear ZJ disc brakes and a ZJ Brake booster and master cylinder. WJ steering in stock form is a HUGE upgrade to the XJ setup plus by running the JKS bars it is better than stock WJ. Other reasons for not running the one ton set up is that I am running 15" steelies and I couldnt fit the TRE's from the one ton setup unless I went to a larger diameter wheel. BTW I cut off the bracket to the sway bar for the clearance and rides fine without the sway bar and the clearance is fine. Ill order the proper TRE and slap that SOB on there and weld the bracket back on there and be done with it. Thanks everyone for your help
 
lol, You just said about 5 things that I would have said 3 years ago that I feel STRONGLY about now.

1st, If you're gunna do it then you might as well do it right the first time. It wouldn't cost a justifiable amount more to just do 1-ton stuff. But if you don't want to then that's fine.

2nd, 1-ton TREs OTK WILL fit with 15" wheels. As long as you have 4" backspacing or less. The brake calipers are what come so close to the wheel.

3rd, A Jeep Cherokee DOES NOT ride the same without the sway bar. No matter how you look at it... it just don't. If you have any amount of lift... you go to swerve to miss a deer and end up in the top of a tree.

Andy.
 
Hehe... Who says I'd swerve. :). That's meat for 6 months and I'd take my steel bumper over the deer any day. in all seriousness I'm gonna put it back on asap.. I may go to one tons some day it is how it is for now though
 
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