Final questions before the build begins!!

So I'm about to begin my build but need to get a few final things ironed out and quickly. Thanks for the help in advance!!!!:greensmok

Current setup: STOCK!!!! 100%

Planned setup: RE 3.5" super-flex, 15" black wheels w/ 33" tires.

Shocks Question:
The 3.5" super flex is in the mail, via UPS, and will be here Monday. Got it for the price on the RE website, but with FREE shipping However, it didn't come with shocks. I'm looking at some Bilstein 5100s or some OMEs. Now that's about all I know. I don't know what valving or anything. So could some more of you enlightened fellows point me in the right direction? or...feel free to suggest something totally different. Do bare in mind that this is my DD.

Axle Questions:
So I've been reading around the forums and I would really like to lock my rear end, but I have the D35, completely stock. I've read quite a few threads about people's D35 blowing up so I'm kinda scared. I have the chance to buy a D44 that's in good shape. I will need to throw some 4.xx gears in there and would like to lock it with an Aussie Locker. The rear end is $225, but I would have to spend $200 in gas to go get it. What you guys think? But also I won't be wheeling it or climbing it that hard. Just fun in the mud and climbing over a few things here and there. Nothing too hardcore. So will the stock D35 with 4.xx gears and an Aussie locker hold up for now? Still in College so don't have a lot of time for trails and mountains.

Locker Question:
Better to lock the rear or front? Selectable locker i.e. OX or is Aussie good? I've read great reviews about them being dependable. Safe to run 33"s on D30/D35 locked? Really don't want @#%! blowing up on me.

SYE/DS Question:
Been searching around on this SYE issue and I remain confused. The SYE kit is pretty inexpensive, however the axle is pretty pricey. Anyway to get away with just using a SYE kit and not having to buy a custom $300-$400 shaft?

And yes I've been searching the forums so don't hate on me too much for not using the search button.

dont run the d35
lunchbox lockers are fine, ran a bunch on 35's no problem. they are great.
lock the rear first, most benifit from rear locker first.

can you get to a JY closer than the d44? if so grab a ford 8.8. gives ya disc brakes, you can get one with 410 gears and a good portion come with factory limited slip. and they are super strong...

if you get SYE, you need a shaft. on 3.5" you shouldnt NEED the SYE, but if ya have the coin, do it

Step 1
new axle

get a 8.25", 8.8, dana 44

I would also invest in some armor before a locker

Axle, I would pass on a 44 that will cost 425 just to get. But dont lock or gear your 35. Wait for a diffrent 44 or a 8.25, then build it up, gears locker, then swap it in.
SYE, Like said you probly wont need a sye, but if you do you can look into running a front drive shaft to save some money.

Thanks guys!!! Yea I kinda figured that was a bit expensive to get the 44. Have to research this Ford rear end. Is Aussie good to go with if I happen to find a Ford rear that isn't locked?

Any suggestions on shocks??

EDIT: How does the bolt pattern on the 8.8 compare to the D30 or D35? Same? Different?

8.8 specs since every axle question leads to this ill post em again...

explorer 8.8 stats
factory disc brakes on all 95-01
5 on 4.5 lug pattern same as jeeps
31 spline shafts (including drum break ones)
8.8" ring gear
same size pinion shaft as d60
1/4" thick 3 1/4" axle tubes

8.8 wms-wms 59 1/2" vs xj wms-wms 60 3/4"

only down side to the expo 8.8 is the c clips but imo theyre not a big deal at all

all in all weld the tubes to the housing and its an all around stronger axle then the xj d44

1990heepxj said:

8.8 specs since every axle question leads to this ill post em again...

explorer 8.8 stats
factory disc brakes on all 95-01
5 on 4.5 lug pattern same as jeeps
31 spline shafts (including drum break ones)
8.8" ring gear
same size pinion shaft as d60
1/4" thick 3 1/4" axle tubes

8.8 wms-wms 59 3/4" vs xj wms-wms 60 1/2"

only down side to the expo 8.8 is the c clips but imo theyre not a big deal at all

all in all weld the tubes to the housing and its an all around stronger axle then the xj d44

Click to expand...

Haha thanks man. I appreciate it! I would just feel a lot more comfortable NOT rolling on a D35. I'm sure the 35 would hold for sometime but @#$! happens.

If you keep the 35, definitely lock the front first. Get an 8.25 or an 8.8. An 8.25 would swap right in and be plenty strong. Some prefer locking the front before the rear. It helps pull you over obstacles and the rear end doesn't slide as much. Plus, on the road, a locked front would be invisible in 2wd.

Look into some Bilstein 7100s. The 5100s are good too. Either one is rebuildable. I like the 360/80 valving up front.

Do I buy the same shocks on all 4 corners?

Will a Dana44 out of a Scout II plug and play into a 98XJ?

the front shocks have a post on the top and a bushing at the bottom. rear are bushing/bushing. lengths will differ too. see what RE recommends for their lift height and compare extended/compressed lengths with what bilstein offers.

and thats a negatory on the scout axle. by the contexts of your posts... id say look for a 8.25 with your current gear ratio so that its drivable and get them both regeared down the road. thatd be your best option unless youve got machining/welding skills that we dont know about. 3.55s will be fine for the time being. you said you have a 35, do you have ABS as well?

im not sure about the scout axle, your u joint will be easy to get one to fit, maybe u would need a custom shaft but thats pretty easy to get. the perchs may need to be relocated to fit, but agian super easy. an 8.25 or 8.8 will be just as strong as the D44 with mroe ground clearance and weight less.

like you said, this is your DD, ur not gonna be wheeling too hard

Yea the only reason I asked about the scout was because I found a guy on craig's list selling a scout rear end he was going to use for some jeep project but he chose a different path and he only wants $100 and it's like 10 miles away.

"Dana 44 out of a Scout II with 3.73 gears. Was going to use for a jeep project but I went another route."

Or... I found this:
http://tulsa.craigslist.org/pts/2020966199.html

Don't really care about the front axle, but I'm pretty sure that's an 8.8".

Ranger 8.8's are smaller iirc. With a 3.5" lift your only gonna fit 33's max so a 8.25 would be fine. If you have any welding skills at all, an 8.8 is a very easy swap.

Personally, I would find an open 8.8 with 4.10 gears and a 4 banger D30 out of a TJ (or XJ, but harder to find). Then throw a lunchbox in the rear. And I would get the Iron Rock Offroad hack N' Tap/ Refurb. driveshaft combo.

Also, If your looking to save some on shocks, check out the Rough Country 2.2's. I run them on my dads TJ (2.5" lift) and my sisters WJ (4" lift). The ride pretty well. But if you want the best go with Bilsteins. I run the 5150's on my junk.

coldoath said:

Yea the only reason I asked about the scout was because I found a guy on craig's list selling a scout rear end he was going to use for some jeep project but he chose a different path and he only wants $100 and it's like 10 miles away.

"Dana 44 out of a Scout II with 3.73 gears. Was going to use for a jeep project but I went another route."

Or... I found this:
http://tulsa.craigslist.org/pts/2020966199.html

Don't really care about the front axle, but I'm pretty sure that's an 8.8".

Click to expand...

An 8.25 will swap in with about an hours worth of work depending on rust levels.

It's not really anymore work at all since he's installing a lift anyways.

Great info guys I really appreciate it and not being flamed for being a noob. haha. Well the thing is, is that I can get a D44 out of a scout II for $100 and it's good to go. I would regear it and throw an Aussie in it. I spoke with a guy on the forums who is running a D44 from a scout and he said he just added 1" spacers on each side, which placed it back to the Jeep lug pattern and all he had to do was weld on some spots for the leafs to mount. So, I'm really considering that.

Oh, and I just got a PM from a fellow who is going to GIVE me his RE 4" lift shocks

coldoath said:

Great info guys I really appreciate it and not being flamed for being a noob. haha. Well the thing is, is that I can get a D44 out of a scout II for $100 and it's good to go. I would regear it and throw an Aussie in it. I spoke with a guy on the forums who is running a D44 from a scout and he said he just added 1" spacers on each side, which placed it back to the Jeep lug pattern and all he had to do was weld on some spots for the leafs to mount. So, I'm really considering that.

Oh, and I just got a PM from a fellow who is going to GIVE me his RE 4" lift shocks

Click to expand...

I think an 8.25" is your best option and you should be able to pick one up at a local wrecker for under $100. It will bolt in and you'll be able to find one with matching gears to your front axle.

I don't know what your skill level is, but for most "noobs" swaping in a scout 44 isn't as easy as it sounds.
Do you know how to weld and have access to a welder?
Have you ever set up gears?

It just seems like a lot of work and money to get a rear axle with 3.55 gears and an aussie. If you plan on staying in the 31-33 range, you'll be happy with an 8.25.

8.25"-$100
aussie-$275

vs

Dana 44 -$100
aussie - $275
Gears / Install kit-$350
Spacers- $100
Weld on perches- $50
Plus any tools you may need for setting up gears

I would have to put new gears in the 8.25 as well. I'm going to regear no matter what rear end I use, so I'm going to have to do the front at the same time.

I agree with a 29 spline 8.25. Plenty strong. Not much weaker than a 44.

Kinda wondering why everybody is against the 44? I have a guy that does welding for me so that's not a problem.