First XJ Lift

I am getting ready to lift the XJ. It is a 98 and I have a 3.5 inch RE lift waiting in the garage. I will be getting around to the install next weekend. I am used to working on vehicles since my father and I collect and restore cars fron the twenties and thirties, but the only lifts I have done to date are on pickups. Basically I am looking for the little nagging things that you have run into. The major problems such as death wobble and alignment after the install are things I expect and can deal with. Any pointers would be appreciated.

Thanks

You didn't mention which RE Kit, so I don't know what's in the box.

Here are some basics:

Your caster will likely be "off" from stock. Live with it as long as the front pinion angle is slightly down or straight in relation to the front DS.

Camber: Can't fix w/out using adjustable ball joints as this tracks the knuckle angle, which is affected by caster.

Toe in: 1/16" should do it.
Wheel center: With wheels pointed straight ahead, adjust drag link to center wheel.

Front Brake lines: Either replace them with longer, or relocate the hardline.

Rear Brake lines: Relocate hard line at the hose connection. Make new bracket.
Rear E-Brake: Relocate joint located just infront of left rear wheel. About 2~3" did it for me.

Disconnects. The "bolt" on the axle side of the swaybar link is NOT a bolt, it is a pressed in stud with a reverse torx head. Just press it out.

Rear Drive Shaft. This can/will be a source of vibrations afterwards. Either drop the t-case 1", or shim the axle as needed, or both. You are looking for equal and opposite. I ended up using a Rusty's 1" crossmember ( No loss of clearance). Remove the DS from the T-Case and lubricate the dickens out of the slip yoke before assembly.

Some folks simply do a Hack~N~Tap SYE and install a double cardan drive shaft ( like the front ) and shim the rear axle so that the pinion is about a degree down from the driveshaft.

I didn't have a spring compressor when I did any of mine.
What I can tell you is that if it looks like a short cut, it ain't. Resolve that you will be removing the front DS, shocks, calipers (tie them up), drag link, track bar, sway bar, the lower control arms in the front, and anything else which prevents the front axle from hitting the floor. You will need to support the Frame of the truck about where the t-case is to do the front, and when you do the rear, support it just before the front spring purches.

I do the back 1st, that makes me feel like I've accomplished something before I do the front Again, remove anything which might tear off. Breather hose, rear drive shaft...

Ron

i do the front first then do the rear! makes it seem like the worst is over!

Do the rear last... You want to be in a better mood for the first drive.

DEATH WOBBLE, If you want to prevent it, do the ball joints and tre's at the same time, 300, well spent. Next time I will replace everything in the suspension, complete rebuild, as part of any lift.

Great info Ron. I have the RE standard ride kit. I wanted to keep it simple and get my feet wet on this one then maybe have real fun later with more height and a long arm kit. I already ordered and received a set of extended Crown brake lines to match the kit. I kind of figured the caster and camber would be whacked, but I can deal with that. Thanks for the alignment specs they will help. If vibration is an issue I have plans to add an SYE kit and driveline later or maybe sooner. Did not not know about the disconnects, rear brake line mount, or relocating the e brake and I will make some plans here. I might do the front first though like DR recommends...might just seem like the worst is over.

Thanks 93gc40 I have a front axle u-joint heading south and will have the front end apart. I will plan on replacing the items you mentioned. I would rather be driving right side up as apposed to ruining my work before I get to enjoy it. How hard is it to remove the ball joints? Any recommendations for adjustable ball joints?

When I had a RE 3.5" kit installed on my '96, I actually got 5" of lift, and the vibes were so bad that it was undriveable until I added a SYE.

RE kits tend to ride low in the front. Pick up a 3/4" coil spring spacer to help correct this.

93gc40 said:

Do the rear last... You want to be in a better mood for the first drive.

DEATH WOBBLE, If you want to prevent it, do the ball joints and tre's at the same time, 300, well spent. Next time I will replace everything in the suspension, complete rebuild, as part of any lift.

Click to expand...

Or just check the ball joints. The ball joints aren't what normally cause the death wobble. Its normally a loose bolt or a bad bushing. If its not lifted and its been maintained the ball joints may be ok. I agree on the TRE's though! They are a PITA and I'd rather lift one than change the stupid ball joints. Come to think of it I need to look at my ball joints when its not raining!

Gonepostal said:

How hard is it to remove the ball joints? Any recommendations for adjustable ball joints?

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They are a PITA but something thats pressed in with that kind of force is gonna be like that! Ball joint press is your friend! My buddy and I did his in about 3 hours but he had it torn apart already when I got there. I blame the bad ball joints on his on the 33x15.5's! Not sure why you would want an adjustable ball joint though.

Thanks guys. Keep the advice coming I am taking notes.

Just make sure that you remember to tighten and torque all the bolts to spec. A loose bolt here or there can mean the difference between a nice ride to a clunking, shifting, etc. You'll be well on your way to a nice lift if you do that. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

That RE 3.5 kit usually doesn't come with an adjustable trac bar. Rather than redrilling the axle-side mount I'd just get an adjustable trac bar now. Takes a lot of the guess work out of diagnosing any death wobble you may have after

PB BLASTER will be your friend i would buy a bunch and start soaking all the bolts early exp the rear spring bolts

soopergoober said:

That RE 3.5 kit usually doesn't come with an adjustable trac bar. Rather than redrilling the axle-side mount I'd just get an adjustable trac bar now. Takes a lot of the guess work out of diagnosing any death wobble you may have after

Click to expand...

QFT

ruger81 said:

PB BLASTER will be your friend i would buy a bunch and start soaking all the bolts early exp the rear spring bolts

Click to expand...

QFT

plan for upper rear shock bolts to break

Have a car available to run to the hardware and auto parts stores. You think you have everything but you will need to go at least a couple times.

X2 on the PB Blaster.

I used two cans on mine and blasted everyday for a week. I got lucky and no broken or frozen bolts for me. :roll: Spend extra attention on rear leaf attach/pivot bolts, shackle bolts, and rear shock upper attach bolts. Be sure to spray on upper side of rear shock mount bolts.

I used a pitman arm puller ($10 at Harbor Freight) to remove the pressed in sway bar attach studs on the front axle.

Be patient and good luck.

I second, or third, or whatever, the PB Blaster and extra car for parts and hardware runs. Do the front first, and the rear will seem like cake. On all my XJ's, I've always ended up using a mini-sledge during lifts. A couple different pry bars make life easier too. If for some reason you can't get one control arm bolt in, or the track bar won't line up "just right", get the rest of the front pretty much done and slap on the tires. Lower it to the ground and rock it either forward or back for arms, or turn the wheels if it's the track bar.. They usually line up then. My junk doesn't like to come apart, but hates going back together even more, lol.

Definetly order the trac bar and be careful when you are pulling that bolt and weird nut. Mine stripped and I had to make something just so I could drive it home. Im still waiting on my new tracbar to get here and my jeep knows that it isnt right. Buy the new one and save yourself the trouble of redrilling. I managed to get mine back into the stock whole at 3" lift but it was still to far back and it drives like it.
Night before you go out there to put it on rinse all the dirt off of the stuff your taking of. Keeps you from tasting it later.
And do it on a saturday in case, god forbid, something goes wrong and you have to finish on sunday

Thanks I was planning on hitting the bolts with PB blaster and will also plan replacing shock bolts. I do have an adjustable track bar from Iron Rock ready and sitting with the kit.