XJ leaning to the right

[Goatman]

I finished the install of my upgrade suspension over the weekend. In the rear I upgrade my OME spring packs with a couple of custom made extra leafs, while the front got RE4.5" coils and a 1.75" spacer, but with the stock coils spring isolator removed (in retrospect I should have left them in, but I'm sure the rear would settle a bit). The lift I gained was about 5.7" on the left in front and 5" on the right and in the rear I got 6.6" on the left and 6.2" on the right hand side. Why would this be? I've read before that all XJs lean to the right because of the torque effect of the engine and in my case also because of the driver's weight on that side.

I guess the actual question is, do I do something about it, or should I just stop being fussy and leave the measuring tape at home? I could add a 10mm OME packer or the stock coil spring isolator on the right and a 10mm spacer between the leaf and spring pad in the rear to level it out - would this be adviseable? I did install the leaf pack with the highest free camber lenght on the right hand side - the RE coils were both exactly the same length.

Leave the front alone and add one more leaf to the right side in back. All of my rear spring packs have one more leaf in the right side than in the left side.

See what that does.

 

[gorman]

Goatman, if you say an extra leaf, do you mean a short one or a full length one?

 

[TXRIVERRAT]

Unless I overlooked it, noone has mentioned the track bar. I researched this same problem when I first lifted mine (4.5" RC w/full leaf packs), and the general consensus was the stock track bar is too short for lift over about 3" if memory serves. I still have my factory track bar so I can't provide first hand experience, just info from past research.

Good Luck!

 

[Goatman]

Unless I overlooked it, noone has mentioned the track bar. I researched this same problem when I first lifted mine (4.5" RC w/full leaf packs), and the general consensus was the stock track bar is too short for lift over about 3" if memory serves. I still have my factory track bar so I can't provide first hand experience, just info from past research.

Good Luck!

Would be a pretty lousy installation to add a lift and not allow for the track bar to clear. Either way, the track bar won't hit at ride height, so it won't effect leaning, it just might hit too soon and limit droop.

Goatman, if you say an extra leaf, do you mean a short one or a full length one?

How about a middle length one?

It would depend on how much difference you had and so how much lift you need to level it. It's a trial and error thing. If adding one leaf, I'd probably go for the second leaf under the main leaf, or 3rd leaf down.

 

[gorman]

Unless I overlooked it, noone has mentioned the track bar.

My trackbar is set to centre the axle, so that shouldn't affect the angles on the springs.

How about a middle length one?

It would depend on how much difference you had and so how much lift you need to level it. It's a trial and error thing. If adding one leaf, I'd probably go for the second leaf under the main leaf, or 3rd leaf down.

Thanks, I do have a couple of extra leafs to play with - all were purposely made for the springs pack so that the curves complement each other. The base spring packs are OME CS034RA leafs but they were a bit soft and I also inverted them one too many times while flexing so they got permanent damage (bottom two leafs were bent). It was my own fault however as I've never bumpstopped the rear accordingly. I had the two bottom leafs reset and the spring company made me a short bottom one to give better support to the previous relative long bottom spring and then I also had two extra leafs made in the number 2 and 3 positions. The idea was to just have one long extra leaf per side in addition to the short support spring, but seeing that it was relatively cheap I asked them to make me an additional pair of long springs just in case I need it when I put a heavy rear bumper on with a wheel carrier. I thought I'll try the packs with all the leafs fitted at first to see what the ride would be like and I must say, I'm pleasently surprised - it's not harsh at all. Being OME packs they have a relatively flat curve, so even with the extra leafs they should still flex well, but I haven't tested that theory yet.

Goatman to go with your suggestion, I could take out the third leaf on the left.

Here's what the spring pack look like at the moment with all the leafs fitted, you can't see new the short bottom one, but numbers 2 and 3 in the pic at the extra ones...they're also a little thicker than the OME ones, being 7mm, whereas the OME leafs are 6mm:

 

[Goatman]

Adding one to the right or removing one from the left would depend on what ride height you want. Either way it would work. Personally, I like a pack with a lot of leaves....if the friction is minimized.....since the packs are stronger and can carry weight as well as flex. My spring packs are 9-10-11 leaves.

In your situation, since you already aren't afraid of messing with the spring packs, I'd pull them both apart and add short sections of plastic spring liner between each leaf in the center between the u-bolts, which will leave a nice gap between each leaf from that center spacer to the outer friction pad. Then, add a leaf to the right side pack, and add it to the spot that has the most distance between the ends of the adjoining leaves......follow me? Look at the spacing, and add it to the spot with the most spacing. If you don't have a spring that length with holes on the end for friction pads, then run a full length liner on that one leaf....unless you're willing to drill a hole in that leaf for the pads.

Actually, if you added the liner spacers between the leaves in the middle, you could just remove one leaf from the left, since the spacers would make up the width of that leaf and leave the ride height the same.

 

[Gojeep]

I have found that our RHD's are worse off with the right side sag. Not only do we have the engine torque compressing that side all the time, but on top of that we also have the added weight of driver, steering box, column and wheel plus the dash instruments etc and pedals on that side also.
You will find though that you should concentrate first on levelling the front and then the back. The back will be effected when you straighten the front. Also I found I had to add nearly twice as much spacer as the difference as the other side would rise half as much when lifting the right side.

 

[gorman]

Gojeep thanks, that is an interesting observation. The right front on my XJ is sitting 20mm lower while the rear is currently 10mm lower. Do you mean to say that I'd need to fit about a 40mm spacer in the front and 20mm in the rear to level it out? I was thinking of just adding an additional stock coil spring isolator to the front, that about 15mm - maybe I should add two? With the existing sapcer I have on top of the RE 4.5" spring it does take some effort to get the spring in place, even with the lower control arms loose. I'd like to get the levelling right in as few as possible attempts!!

Alternatively I'd do as Goatman suggested and to the rear first and see how it impacts the front.

 

[MGrobe]

My rear leaves never had a problem with leaning, just the coils. Of course the spring rate for the rear was on the stiff side whereas the front were under-sprung. Even now after 8 years of running the rear pack I don't think I visually see a lean.

 

[Goatman]

You will find though that you should concentrate first on levelling the front and then the back. The back will be effected when you straighten the front. Also I found I had to add nearly twice as much spacer as the difference as the other side would rise half as much when lifting the right side.

I respectfully disagree. I don't think it matters much, but I have always leveled them in the rear, and the torque that twists the rig to the right is in the rear and it's usually the rear springs that sag on that side.

 

[TRAILREADYXJ]

I have always leveled them in the rear, and the torque that twists the rig to the right is in the rear and it's usually the rear springs that sag on that side.

I agree, plus with bastard packs, there is a greater chance the "problem" would be in the rear versus new coils in front.

Mine has always sagged on the pass side (bastard packs, rustys coils). I need to rebuild my leaves anyway, and will be adding an extra leaf to that pack. The odd thing is I "rotated" my springs last time I made adjustments to the ride height, and it made no difference.

 

[Gojeep]

I respectfully disagree. I don't think it matters much, but I have always leveled them in the rear, and the torque that twists the rig to the right is in the rear and it's usually the rear springs that sag on that side.

I have never had to adjust the rear. Proving that it was not coming from the rear, swapping leaf packs left to right still had the same lean as before. But leveling out the front also corrected the rear at the same time. Besides, running a totally different spring rate left to right by adding a leaf I dont think is a good idea.

 

[F9K9]

'92 XJ, left hand drive, RE 3.5" SF lift, RE adjustable track bar. Driver's side (left side when viewed from the rear) is down 1.5"-2", no bulge in front coils and right hand shackle is approx 1/3" closer to unibody on the left side. I emailed JKS for the quicker discos but, they replied that I have a spring problem and that discos would not correct it. Shackle fastesteners are torqued correctly. The lift was already installed when I bought the rig. Any other possible solutions.

Thanks,

Reed

 

[bcmaxx]

My xj had a 1-1/4 inch lean to the left after replacing my control arms, just had to spin the coil spring a half a turn and shes level again

 

[F9K9]

My xj had a 1-1/4 inch lean to the left after replacing my control arms, just had to spin the coil spring a half a turn and shes level again

You might be on to something there. I really noticed it after attempting to install the Daystar expended bump stops and couldn't get them in due to angles. I compressed the coil springs and went with the hockey pucks (try finding those suckers in Ky):yap: The coils are in the correct possion now but, who knows? I did replace my UCAs with adjustable ones that a local club member made in his machine shop. An uneven number of leafs on each side just makes me nervous but, almost everyone on here has more knowledge and experience than I have. Uneven spring packs doesn't sit well with my instincts. Thanks for your help BCMAXX!

 

[bigolexj]

had the same issue. I got the rusty's adjustable spacers and the problem was solved. I also like his coils (same manufacturer as RE and a few others.. I believe it's Eibach? Not sure). Anyway, it worked real good for me. A stiffer coil is better if you have a winch or heavy front bumper or big engine. It sways a lot less in turns and helps the swaybar bushings and discos last longer in my experience... HTH

 

[F9K9]

had the same issue. I got the rusty's adjustable spacers and the problem was solved. I also like his coils (same manufacturer as RE and a few others.. I believe it's Eibach? Not sure). Anyway, it worked real good for me. A stiffer coil is better if you have a winch or heavy front bumper or big engine. It sways a lot less in turns and helps the swaybar bushings and discos last longer in my experience... HTH

Good info! Thanks!