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XJ FRONT LEAF SPRING CONVERSION????

I have been running leaf springs for over three years on mine. Don't have the flex of a long arm, but side hill very well and the on road performance is much better than any short arm kit I have owned.
 
Yup. I won't say that leafs will work as well as a long arm setup, but if I have to give up a slight bit of flex to have a rock solid, low maintenance front end, I'll be happy. I'm on a very tight budget, so i can't afford to be replacing all kinds of parts all the time. They money would be better spent on other upgrades or actual 'wheeling trips.

For the actual mechanics of it, I was prepared to use YJ springs, but from what I have read Waggy springs work well and I just happen to have a set. I also have a Waggy front 44, so once I have the money to regear my axles and buy a new front locker, I'll install that when I can. For now I'll just use the 30.

Jim
 
Re: XJ FRONT LEAF SPRING CONVERSION???? COUPLE NEW QUESTIONS TODAY 11/10/09

I know this is an old thread... But I have a question....

For those of you doing the leaf spring conversions up front; I have a couple questions...

1. About how much lift will the 2.5" springs give me on a sprung over 44 front on my Cherokee? (with what shackles) (WHAT TIRE SIZE ARE YOU RUNNING)

2. Are you running shackles in the front or rear of the leaf? (if in the front; are you having any problems with it)

3. Are you using the upper control arm mounts at the rear to hang the leaf?

4. Are you using regular XJ lifted springs in the rear?

Thanks!!!
 
It's been a number of years, so forgive me if the details are kind of vague. I ran mix and match front and rear leafs, one tons, 40's. The shackles were in the back, which was great because that thing would climb anything like it wasn't there, but the spring angle sucked. Since the leaf packs sat so far from level I had to have something like 16 degree shims made and incorporated into the design, which old_man on here graciously helped with.

So whatever you end up with, try for level springs, it will make life so much easier.
 
It's been a number of years, so forgive me if the details are kind of vague. I ran mix and match front and rear leafs, one tons, 40's. The shackles were in the back, which was great because that thing would climb anything like it wasn't there, but the spring angle sucked. Since the leaf packs sat so far from level I had to have something like 16 degree shims made and incorporated into the design, which old_man on here graciously helped with.

So whatever you end up with, try for level springs, it will make life so much easier.
16* shims? How/ where did you get these? pics?
 
i myself am running leaves and have been down both shackle forward and back routes. i prefer shackle back and im running a bastard pack of stock yjs. my shackles around 4'' eye to eye and im netting 6'' of lift considering my rear is at 5.5. if its preference we're talking here than id do it the way im running it now. but my front drop hanger would be shorter and id keep my shackles and run a 3.5 pack and probably be at around 6.5. i wold say no to xj rears due to them being long id be afraid of the never ending bounce driving down the road...idk. i think the yjs are perfect. and the shim thing idk i guess i dont need them??? but my 44 is hp so maybe thats why..??
 
i've done both. unless your looking for lots of flex. go LA. but still leafs flex if you dont think so go watch some vids. of some yodas on 64's front and rear. those rigs are drooping alot and compressign alot. . and its cheap. an yes some gents crawl on leafs front and rear and do great. by no way am i saying leafs are better i'm agreeing upon simple cheap and good. our rigs take on transformations. as we get more skill and more $ to dump on our rigs .

any how bud. i am doing a 2nd leafed xj. ill try to get you some info as i build. i didnt have a list of what i needed i just did it. i also stretched the rig 4 inches . made adjustable mounts for the leaf spring eye and the shakle point so the sus was very adjustable front and rear and the castor is adjustable from center +or- 1 inch.

one thing id go for is a frame plate kit. i cut all mine by hand . it took a good bit of time.

ballistic fab has all the parts you need. all the mounts and shackles with shipping is just under 300.

i recommend 58 inch springs for yur front end. grab some out of a 2wd chev 1500 or 2500 rear end 1988-92. the springs may run you $50-100 bucks.

here's the parts list i put together

parts

X2 http://ballisticfabrication.com/Leaf...ch_p_1485.html

X3 http://ballisticfabrication.com/Chev...ts_p_1181.html

chevy 64 inch leafs X4

x2http://ballisticfabrication.com/Leaf...es_p_1647.html

shocks figure some bilstein 5150


click the links and go take a look. i'll give ya some help.
 
i've done both. unless your looking for lots of flex. go LA. but still leafs flex if you dont think so go watch some vids. of some yodas on 64's front and rear. those rigs are drooping alot and compressign alot. . and its cheap. an yes some gents crawl on leafs front and rear and do great. by no way am i saying leafs are better i'm agreeing upon simple cheap and good. our rigs take on transformations. as we get more skill and more $ to dump on our rigs .

any how bud. i am doing a 2nd leafed xj. ill try to get you some info as i build. i didnt have a list of what i needed i just did it. i also stretched the rig 4 inches . made adjustable mounts for the leaf spring eye and the shakle point so the sus was very adjustable front and rear and the castor is adjustable from center +or- 1 inch.

one thing id go for is a frame plate kit. i cut all mine by hand . it took a good bit of time.

ballistic fab has all the parts you need. all the mounts and shackles with shipping is just under 300.

i recommend 58 inch springs for yur front end. grab some out of a 2wd chev 1500 or 2500 rear end 1988-92. the springs may run you $50-100 bucks.

here's the parts list i put together

parts

X2 http://ballisticfabrication.com/Leaf...ch_p_1485.html

X3 http://ballisticfabrication.com/Chev...ts_p_1181.html

chevy 64 inch leafs X4

x2http://ballisticfabrication.com/Leaf...es_p_1647.html

shocks figure some bilstein 5150


click the links and go take a look. i'll give ya some help.
Thanks for posting in a 4 year old thread, leafs suck you can do a 3 link sytem for under 500 if ya do it all your self and it will be a million times better then leafs
 
Thanks for posting in a 4 year old thread, leafs suck you can do a 3 link sytem for under 500 if ya do it all your self and it will be a million times better then leafs

For 500 ill go long. Got a link or parts list? For the 200 more its worth it to me. Because thats eventually ware i plan to end up. Also with trangulated 4 link rear. Intitialy from what i found it takes my build from $8000 to 12-14000. With tires lockers gears etc.
 
For 500 ill go long. Got a link or parts list? For the 200 more its worth it to me. Because thats eventually ware i plan to end up. Also with trangulated 4 link rear. Intitialy from what i found it takes my build from $8000 to 12-14000. With tires lockers gears etc.

i built all my stuff 2 years ago but this is what i remember

Johnny Joints with incerts and jam nuts-$200

hiems and RS brackets for trackbar-$100
i think tubing was in the 200-225 area

i did 2x2x.25 box tube lowers anbd 2".25wall dom upper

track bar is 1.25 5/16 wall dom direct tapped for 3/4 hiems all axle brackets i made myself from .25 plate and frame end was a clayton crossmember
 
i built all my stuff 2 years ago but this is what i remember

Johnny Joints with incerts and jam nuts-$200

hiems and RS brackets for trackbar-$100
i think tubing was in the 200-225 area

i did 2x2x.25 box tube lowers anbd 2".25wall dom upper

track bar is 1.25 5/16 wall dom direct tapped for 3/4 hiems all axle brackets i made myself from .25 plate and frame end was a clayton crossmember

if i put a jonny joint at the new cross member and went urethane at the axle mounts would that work? figure i mite build radius arms.

http://ballisticfabrication.com/Ballistic-Bushings_c_160.html

and some of these

http://ballisticfabrication.com/Forged-Ballistic-Joints-Bushings_c_141.html

if i mill some solid square steel weld them in. i could use 1/4 in wall square tube x by x dia tube with threaded inserts and jam nuts . would be easy to keep the radius arms square this way. since i have full width axles. then id be into a track bar . what ya think?

i appreciate the input.
 
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