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XJ Dana 44 Ford Explorer Disc Conversion

Ok that was probably not the greatest idea... Something is deffinetly wrong.. Something is rubbing bad and I'm not sure if it's due to my alloy shafts I put on instead of my stock shafts or what... The alloy shafts use a bolt like a grade 8 hex head bolt with a lock washer and they stick in so far I had to remove the whole ebrake system just to get them in and now I think they are in to far cuz I have this horrible rubbing scrapping sound comming from the new disc system.... I know I can grind the heads a bit but that's if I was running the ebrake system... It's not even on the disc brake system yet it sounds like something is rubbing the crap out of my dust shield or the axle shaft is sitting on the spacer... Maybe get new spacers from Teraflex?? They said they enlarged them in thier new kits cuz the older ones moved around and didn't stay centered unless you welded it?? I've got 2 days to fix this plus build my new front axle... Anyone been through this before???
 
Just FYI I solved the rubbing problem by getting spacers for between the axle shaft and the rotar to move it away from the backing plate... 38 bucks for a set at Teraflex... Let's hope it works.. I'll post pics later if it does...
 
How much of an improvement does this make over the stock D44 drums. I just put a set of cutting brakes in to controll the back brakes and the drums didn't have enough power to stop the rears from spinning in my trick front dig setup(more on that later). I tried upgrading to a 1 1/8" wheel cylinder and that definately added more power over the stock 7/8" W.C. Do you think the explorer gives as much braking as the front, or should I go with the bigger crown vic rotors.

FYI the the wheel cyclinders are direct bolt in from a 87 dodge 3/4 ton and come in 7/8, 15/16, and 1 1/8 inch sizes. def a good upgrade if you just want more rear braking power. Only take about an hour to change too and about $18 for two from NAPA
 
How much of an improvement does this make over the stock D44 drums. I just put a set of cutting brakes in to controll the back brakes and the drums didn't have enough power to stop the rears from spinning in my trick front dig setup(more on that later). I tried upgrading to a 1 1/8" wheel cylinder and that definately added more power over the stock 7/8" W.C. Do you think the explorer gives as much braking as the front, or should I go with the bigger crown vic rotors.

FYI the the wheel cyclinders are direct bolt in from a 87 dodge 3/4 ton and come in 7/8, 15/16, and 1 1/8 inch sizes. def a good upgrade if you just want more rear braking power. Only take about an hour to change too and about $18 for two from NAPA

The sizes you give, are those the bore sizes?
 
I have read the entire thread and I don't think I missed it...how do the calipers attach to the hard lines on the axle? Do you have to purchase soft lines? Or will the hard lines screw into the calipers? If you need soft lines from what application?

I'm getting ready to do this with ZJ stuff.

mac 'locked up' gyvr
 
I bought new hard and soft lines, and re-ran everything myself(but I was also doing it on the axle before I swapped it in), and have done it two ways. First time I used two passenger side Explorer rear caliper soft lines. It worked well enough, but I wasn't really happy with the limited movement I had when I removed the caliper for servicing the rear end, and I felt I was kind of restricted on how I could run the lines do to how short the soft line was, and what kept it up out of the way.
This last time I used two stock XJ front brake lines(soft), and after playing around with the odd elbow coming off the caliper, I found a way that I was happy with. I ended up running the hard line to the insides of the spring perches and ran the soft line over the leaf spring. Every thing is way up and out of the way, with very little chance of getting caught on anything.
P3010473.jpg
 
Anyone know if the dust shield is needed?

This will be for a Crown Vic swap. I pulled a set of brakes from a 93', which were basically brand new, but they were missing the dust shield. I went to do the swap today, and when I bolt on the axle bearing retainer it starts to bow outward in the center like the spacing isn't right. The only thing I can think of is the dust shield is needed to make up that extra difference.
 
I've read through this many times but I'm a little confused on something. With the Teraflex spacers, do you use the stock retainer plates or do you have to run the Rubicon plates AND the spacers? Even the Jeepin.com article isn't really clear as he mentions both of them.
 
I've read through this many times but I'm a little confused on something. With the Teraflex spacers, do you use the stock retainer plates or do you have to run the Rubicon plates AND the spacers? Even the Jeepin.com article isn't really clear as he mentions both of them.

You run the stock retainer plates and the spacers. Or you can run the Rubicon plates and drill them out to the correct bolt pattern.

The Rubicon plates have a lip on them that acts like the spacer but has the wrong bolt pattern (see first photo in the first thread). That is why you need the spacers when you use the XJ plates.
 
You run the stock retainer plates and the spacers. Or you can run the Rubicon plates and drill them out to the correct bolt pattern.

The Rubicon plates have a lip on them that acts like the spacer but has the wrong bolt pattern (see first photo in the first thread). That is why you need the spacers when you use the XJ plates.

OK sweet. That's what I was thinking but thanks for the clarification. Now I can put my axle back together.
 
Starting this tomorrow. Just pulled the parts off of an interceptor today. I'll probably be going with the CV soft lines and all new hard lines on the axle itself. Can't wait to feel the improvement in braking I will get.
 
Hi Markw;

Excellent writeup!!

I know it been a while but can you make a list with part nr./mft of the things you ended up using for this mod?

I read it all but seem to keep missing something everytime I read it over.

Thanks!

Kurt
 
Hi Markw;

Excellent writeup!!

I know it been a while but can you make a list with part nr./mft of the things you ended up using for this mod?

I read it all but seem to keep missing something everytime I read it over.

Thanks!

Kurt


Teraflex spacers
stock axle retainer plates
Ford explorer 8.8 rear disc backing plates and calipers
93-98 jeep ZJ rotors.
Originally I used explorer rotors, but the jeep rotors have more offset to the hat and fit better.

I'm also thinking about redoing the rear brakelines. Probably just have some short custom lines made and weld a tab on the axle tube for the hardline to flexible line coupling.

Oh, ebrake adapter I used the Lokar adapters for the ebrake but I was already running YJ passenger ebrake cables. I hear the liberty ebrake cables work too, but not sure which to use.
 
hey guys my brakes in the back tested at less than 20% so I'm thinking I need to do that 95/96 MC and then the prop valve... but dunno what to do yet.. can I get some clarification on the swap out especially the prop valve... maybe some pics.. and where it is???
 
hey guys my brakes in the back tested at less than 20% so I'm thinking I need to do that 95/96 MC and then the prop valve... but dunno what to do yet.. can I get some clarification on the swap out especially the prop valve... maybe some pics.. and where it is???

I used the booster and master cylinder from a 95/96 Cherokee and the proportioning valve for the same year Grand Cherokee. the proportioning valve sits just under the master cylinder. It's easy to spot because it has all the brake lines connected to it.

I'm just finishing my swap up and I'm having problems getting a good pedal out of it. Seems fine when the engine isn't running but once I start it and the booster is working, it seems like I lose any good pedal feel.
 
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