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XJ axle swap/build

89Mock said:
It’s probably more that they are “not DOT approved” making full beadlocks illegal more than anything. To me that means they just aren’t willing to pay the money to get them tested OR zigs some bullshit “well we never include them because they’ve always been illegal” logic.
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Yeah that sounds more like it. It’s either money or some weird CA law that doesn’t allow them for some weird reason.


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anxjous said:
Doc,
Two of the guys I run with have the cooper sst pro in 37's and like them a lot. I saw you were looking at 13.5 width, any reason for that over 12.5? I think youll find more load range d in 12.5.
I went with load range e, but I have beadlocks and air them down to 10-11psi, Ive never run anything different so I cant compare much but they seem to work find at that pressure. I would have gone with d or c range but had the same issue youre having where the 17" rim really limits the range. Guess theyre all designed for heavy tow rigs.
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The 13.5s were about $100 cheaper so that’s why I was going with them. I definitely see the benefit of going with a lower load range and I’ll be paying more close attention to that in the future. I didn’t realize going to 17s would make it difficult to find tires. Thank you for the feedback, I appreciate it. I will probably end up with the Coopers.


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Interco has some blemished 35" SX2s for a 17" wheel right now for $185, and I want to Tennessee cut them and put them on cheap steel wheels with like 5 wraps of duct tape around the bead so badly. Probably not so good on the street though.
 
Phil said:
Interco has some blemished 35" SX2s for a 17" wheel right now for $185, and I want to Tennessee cut them and put them on cheap steel wheels with like 5 wraps of duct tape around the bead so badly. Probably not so good on the street though.
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Just Send It Phil, no regrets


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It’s been quite a while since I’ve done much with the Jeep other than modifying the PCC system as I was getting oil in the air filter. I have to do the rear main seal and the rear pinion seal too which I have parts for.

Had my front drive shaft slip yoke wear out and caused some pretty weird vibes. Have another good shaft that needs a new center bearing for the double cardon joint which I have ordered.

Anyway, got to work on my axles for the first time in a while. Got some metal to start fabricating some spring mounts. Then decided I could try to weld the Cs on. Got the angles set and started burning it in and it turned out better than expected. Tacked the truss on then realized that I needed to paint under it. I’ll fix that next time I work on it.

7611d3eb4cdb547f125f1ebf50c9a1be.jpg



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You’re right, those Cs do look good. What angle are you planning on welding the truss relative to the Cs (caster)?


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Nates2000XJ said:
You’re right, those Cs do look good. What angle are you planning on welding the truss relative to the Cs (caster)?


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Thank you! The C’s will have 6-7 degrees of castor with ~12 degrees of pinion angle. From there the truss will be 2-3 degrees (forward) from level at that point, I already trimmed it quite a bit and I didn’t want to do that much more trimming.


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Just took my new axle for a quick test drive today, front wheel drive only since I have 5.38's in the front and 4.88's in the rear. So far it felt okay at speeds up to about 65 or so. Speedo is still geared for the 4.88's so not sure how far off it is yet. I realized I forgot to tighten the bump stop bolts though. No worries, just doing a bit of rattling.
 
GordoSmasho said:
I really wish i had done this knuckle rotation on my jk44 before i sleeved and gusseted the knuckles. Im going to have to cut it all back apart now to rotate.
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That sounds like quite a bit of work, but I’m sure it will be worth it. I’m thinking about doing C gussets but I have really seen it done that often with the Ford D44s. Do you think it’s worth it?


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DocTremp said:
That sounds like quite a bit of work, but I’m sure it will be worth it. I’m thinking about doing C gussets but I have really seen it done that often with the Ford D44s. Do you think it’s worth it?


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I did mine because jk44s inner c’s are a little weak.
 
GordoSmasho said:
I did mine because jk44s inner c’s are a little weak.
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I got ya. I think I’ll see if I can fab something to tie the C’s into the truss on top because it’s pretty close already, then get some channel iron or tubing for the bottom. Wife caught me checking out those Ballistic Fab C gussets and was giving me a hard time haha!


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One thing I’m thinking of is clearance between that track bar bracket and your drag link at full lock. Are you reusing stock knuckles? Maybe loosely mock the passenger side knuckle up and see if there will be obvious interference issues at full lock.


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