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Write-up -- Installing Cruise Control in your 97+ XJ

97 thru mid 98 airbag cover w/o cruise on the left.

xj_steering_wheel_types.jpg

That's the one. Same on some TJ's. Not sure if you could trim it or not and add the switches.
 
Anyone figure out if all Jeeps have the electric connection under the hood. It seems I have one, I think, with 3 wires, but it is way too short. It is short so it will not go to the front of by the battery.

Anyone have a pic of the connector?
 
Is the cruise switch wiring critical to function? The switches have the same type of connector if you mix them up will it matter?

I have a 2000XJ and I am having cruise control problems. I swapped out my switches a while back because the retaining brackets broke and the switches were loose on the wheel. The cruise worked fine after the swap but the switch brackets broke again, I think because I hold the steering wheel at the switch a lot. I swapped the switches once again and never remove the wheel just unbolted the airbag and switches and now the cruise system won't turn on. At first I thought it was a bad switch because the on button wasn't giving a positive "click" detent and when I replaced the switches alone the first time I didn't have any problems but I put an old switch in that was previously working fine and the system still won't turn on. (i.e. I don't even get the dash light to come on.)

I read up a bit and I checked for vacuum via the AC controls and check the vacuum line at the actuator in the engine bay and removed and the brake switch and checked continuity with a multi-meter and it seems the 3 circuits are functioning either on-off or off-on when the switch is activated and my brake lights work fine as well as my horn. I was baffled thinking all power to the steering wheel came via clockspring but then read the post above "the horn button contact is a slip ring and sliding spring contact" Does this mean my clockspring could be bad and the horn could still work and the airbag light might not come on either?

Are there any voltage tests or checks I can do at the cruise switches or relays I can remove to try to isolate the problem? I would prefer to not spend hundreds on parts if I can isolate to the most likely cause and make that repair first.

I really appreciate any advice or thoughts.
 
You can check the clockspring with a meter. Just don't play with the yellow (air bag) connector. The white connector should only have 3 wires in it. One is for the horn when grounded to the column and the other two are for both cruise control switches. Yes they only use 2 wires because of resistive multiplexing. Each switch provides a different resistance to the circuit as they are pushed. It is possible for part of the clockspring to fail.
 
I just read in another thread that it is possible that the cruise switches from 97-98 XJs and 99-01 XJs though they look similar may create different resistance values, do you know if this is true???

Since I am not certain the years of the XJs my switches came from, this alone could be the source of my problem since I have swapped them several times due to broken mounting brackets and the lack of audible click on one set and the multiple swoitches are the only factor that has been changed since the system stopped working.

I also assume that it doesn't matter which side of the cruise harness you plug the switches into since both switches splice to 2 wires and serve their function via varying resistance. Correct?
 
There are 3 different part numbers for 97, 98, and 99-01. The service manual doesn't give me the resistance specs for each year so I'm not sure if they are the same. If you only problem was the mounting just swap in the old switches (last ones to work) to test assuming you still have them. Yes it doesn't matter which you plug into which connector.
 
There in lies the problem. The working set of switches is now 2 sets disposed so I don't have a set to test that I am sure is right year.

Here is the full set of tests I have done or need to check. I am confident these will isolate the problem.

Brake Switch Check: (3) Circuits to check for continuity. (2) Switch off to on and (1) Switch on to off OK
Vacuum Check: Check for vacuum leaks. Do AC controls work? Leak by Actuator? OK
Resistance Check: Check for change in resistance of cruise switches in different positions. OK
[FONT=&quot]Continuity Check: Check both cruise wires for continuity through the clockspring. Not Verified
Voltage Check: Check for (?) volts at clock spring. Not sure how many volts should be read at clock spring?
[/FONT] No Specs
Switch Check: Ensure correct year switches. Not Verified

Any other tests?
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
 
Check for stored codes in the PCM with a scan tool?

Does disconnecting the battery clear those codes? Because I disconnected the battery the other day when I was working on it.

By the way is there any kind of cruise relay or fuse on the 2000 XJs that might be causing my issues? I searched the manual and fuse panels and didn't see anything but I am curious if I am missing something.
 
Does disconnecting the battery clear those codes? Because I disconnected the battery the other day when I was working on it.

By the way is there any kind of cruise relay or fuse on the 2000 XJs that might be causing my issues? I searched the manual and fuse panels and didn't see anything but I am curious if I am missing something.

Yes it will clear any stored codes. No seperate fuse I see.
 
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