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WJ swap formulas?

The idea is to build a kit that is as one size fits all as possible. When you start getting into several different kits you run into a bunch of problems. First is that there's more stuff to design, stock and sell, which makes everything more expensive, but the biggest problem is that 80% of customers don't know what they need.

I know that sounds like a rude thing to say, but it's the truth. If you give people 3 different options 5 out of 10 will call you asking which one to buy, 2 will buy what they need, and 3 will buy blindly (usually just picking the cheapest option) and then get pissed off that they bought the wrong thing and blame you for it. I don't know about you, but I'm not happy with 3 out of 10 of my customers being unhappy, even if it's their own fault.

The idea here is to take the guess work out of the most common setup, and that's it. If you have something special going on we're happy to help, but it's just not economical to make a kit for every possible setup that someone might want, and it adds more confusion for customers.
 
I will also say that it would be nice to have someone besides JKS making spacers. The ones I got from them were 0.007" oversize on brand new Timken unit bearings. I sent those spacers back and made my own because I am not comfortable with that much slop on the unit bearing, particularly given how snug is the original fitment.

Just a note on this. Yesterday we measured I think 5 or 6 unit bearings, some OEM and several different aftermarket. There was about .008" of variance between the largest and smallest. There's always a bit of tolerance in anything mass produced.
 
WJ Knuckles
WJ Calipers (teeves)
Farmer Johnson Offroad spacers
Go-fer-it knuckle inserts
RHD WJ drag link TRE (P/N 52088512)
GM 1ton pitmam arm TRE (drop pitman alreaded reamed for 1 ton)
WJ lower ball joints
Iron Rock Offroad WJ/XJ rotors
Clayton OTK track bar bracket
4'x1.25" x.120 DOM (rebuilt RE trackbar)
7/8" x18tpi x 1" ID tube end for drag link to run GM pitman TRE.
Stock WJ tie rod, removed 4" from center, sleeved, and welded. Moved over knuckle.

picture.php
 
What sway bar brackets are you running? Did you get away with stock?

The shortened WJ tie rod is what I am planning as well. I appreciate the dimension by which you shortened it. Now I have a baseline for that detail.
 
Mines a little different but I'll share it anyways ;)

Pretty much all stock WJ stuff throughout. It's the 2wd XJ beam, has all WJ arms and UCA bushings. Stock WJ steering UTK, 3" out of the tierod and 4" from the draglink leaves full thread engagement and more then enough extra to adjust. Tierod use 1 1/8 to sleeve inside and draglink is just a little larger then 7/8 but it still works fine. All WJ outers, chopped the CV stub off since its only there to hold the unit bearing together. Stock endlinks fit and the stock style JKS trackbar line up nicely. Stock WJ stabilizer and axle mount welded on.

2gvocaf.jpg
 
2003 TJ Unit Bearings
WJ rotors drilled to 5 x 4.5"
Akebono calipers with Black Magic pads
JKS weld on spacer
Teraflex HD JK/WJ Ball Joints
Goferit taperer TRE inserts for OTK steering orientation
Custom 1.50" OD .250" wall DOM tube with 7/8" x 18 tpi welded inserts
Custom Track Bar with Heim at axle and RE Small Flex joint at frame
Teraflex offset TRE's
Currie Antirock
Under engine cross member/trackbar bracket brace
Steering box brace

Build thread http://www.naxja.net/forum/showthread.php?t=913774&page=9
 
So today I was working on welding together transmission mounts and got bored, so I started doodling in solidworks and when I pressed print this came out.

12316670_866318346821562_744530548653787261_n.jpg


12310623_866341153485948_7958370579464035687_n.jpg
 
I like how many mounting holes that has.
 
I'm bringing this one back up with another question for all of you. Those of you who have done the swap, what did it end up costing you? And I'm talking for everything, start to finish, ball joints, bearings, brakes, brackets, steering, joints, etc.

I'm pretty close to having everything together for our kit, and I have some not so rough numbers. I'm not gonna say what they are yet, but to me they look very good. I'm just curious how they stack up to what others have found.
 
I'm bringing this one back up with another question for all of you. Those of you who have done the swap, what did it end up costing you? And I'm talking for everything, start to finish, ball joints, bearings, brakes, brackets, steering, joints, etc.

I'm pretty close to having everything together for our kit, and I have some not so rough numbers. I'm not gonna say what they are yet, but to me they look very good. I'm just curious how they stack up to what others have found.

Well, hurry up already...cuz some of us are waiting, especially since clayton stopped selling the complete kit.

:yap: :roflmao: :wave1:


Seriously, I was gonna get their kit, so now I am waiting to see what yours has & the cost.
 
I'm bringing this one back up with another question for all of you. Those of you who have done the swap, what did it end up costing you? And I'm talking for everything, start to finish, ball joints, bearings, brakes, brackets, steering, joints, etc.

I'm pretty close to having everything together for our kit, and I have some not so rough numbers. I'm not gonna say what they are yet, but to me they look very good. I'm just curious how they stack up to what others have found.

I haven't done this swap yet, and I'm not sure that my parts list is 100% complete yet, but the expected parts list I have started (for brakes only - no steering changes) on my blackboard is:

Junkyard WJ knuckles - $40
Junkyard ZJ Pitman Arm - $8
2 JKS Spacers - $40
2 WJ Calipers -$116*
2 sets WJ pads - $18*
2 WJ lower ball joints - $70*
Outsourced welding/drilling - $80
TOTAL - $372 prior to discounts; $320 after discounts

*indicates Advance Auto which is subject to a 30% coupon code through their loyalty program
 
I'm bringing this one back up with another question for all of you. Those of you who have done the swap, what did it end up costing you? And I'm talking for everything, start to finish, ball joints, bearings, brakes, brackets, steering, joints, etc.

I'm pretty close to having everything together for our kit, and I have some not so rough numbers. I'm not gonna say what they are yet, but to me they look very good. I'm just curious how they stack up to what others have found.


A grand easy. I got new calipers, black magic brakes, etc. the only junkyard parts are the knuckles and calipers for cores.
 
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