- Location
- Hammertown, USA
very stupidly and dangerously.
-
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WJ Brakes - I think I waded through it all
- Thread starter Cottontail
- Start date
very stupidly and dangerously.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
If it was that easy, Blaine wouldn't go through all the extra work on the Vanco and Black Magic kits. Believe me, he tried every possible combination of parts.
Devilfrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncan, BC
Like I do on my MJ?
Devilfrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncan, BC
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
Its a pretty accurate statement.
Running the wrong bolt pattern on a lug centric wheel with acorn luts is dangerous and stupid. Even only a half of a millimeter off is enough that the lug nuts are not going to be evenly loaded and run a drastically increased risk of coming loose or breaking a wheel stud.
Running the wrong bolt pattern on a lug centric wheel with acorn luts is dangerous and stupid. Even only a half of a millimeter off is enough that the lug nuts are not going to be evenly loaded and run a drastically increased risk of coming loose or breaking a wheel stud.
Devilfrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncan, BC
There is 0.7mm difference between the two patterns, this is less that the thickness of the "I" I just put quotes around. It has been done for several years, not nuns or small children have died by the busload yet.
As for Mr. Blaine, he likely didn't look at them as they weren't around, and if he had he would have come to the same conclusion I did seconds later .... 12.5" is too big for the WJ caliper arrangement.
My front and rear braking system was built around his research and suggestions on other forums.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
He thought of them, they just weren't a good choice.
He prefers the Dodge 1500 stuff.
The caliper isn't much bigger than a WJ caliper but has a slightly larger piston. Pictured below next to stock XJ caliper.
Barely fits inside of a 17" wheel.
Devilfrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncan, BC
Yep they are a nice choice, no question ... When I did my swap I was trying to retain a 15" wheel ... So I also went with a Teeves caliper (I have never had any warping issues, and they just a squeeze into my rims). I have similar clearances on my wheels, but still have a much larger rotor which is nice. My current braking system allows me to "lock them up" as needed, and I currently roll 35's.
I'd actually be curious to see the mounting specs of the RAM caliper cradle. I'm curious if it would be swappable to my WJ knuckles. Wouldn't happen until my tires need replacement, but would be nice to have the option later on.
I'd actually be curious to see the mounting specs of the RAM caliper cradle. I'm curious if it would be swappable to my WJ knuckles. Wouldn't happen until my tires need replacement, but would be nice to have the option later on.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
well, you do need new wheels...
Devilfrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncan, BC
Not on my XJ, the MJ lives on the edge.
Although my XJ rolls 35x12.50R15's on 15x7's so I guess I'm planning to wipe out the bus loads of nuns and school kids no matter what.
Although my XJ rolls 35x12.50R15's on 15x7's so I guess I'm planning to wipe out the bus loads of nuns and school kids no matter what.
- Location
- WA state
I understand that the 12.5 rotor will not work with the specific WJ knuckle/brake setup.
But, that is why I stated make an "adapter" to mount the caliper and said bracket further away. That would let you utilize the larger rotor.
As with all things, not everything is crated equal, nor is anything perfect. I can't afford/don't want to spend what the BMB kit costs. If I can make something that works, and might possibly help others out if it works.
So, I will say that just because Blaine, or whomever, that has not used certain parts for their kits or what they create does not mean that it is automagically inferior.
Cal, I really do appreciate your input and your experiences with things, but you don't know EVERYTHING.
That said, I need a beer.
Cottontail
Three-De Off-Road
- Location
- Nashville, TN
Back on track - I happen to have an 04 WJ in my stable of Jeeps and just spent some time under it, looking and measuring.
If I go to the WJ knuckles, would it be advantageous just to grab the WJ tie rod between the knuckles and the WJ tie rod from the knuckle to the pitman arm and transplant it on to the XJ to do away with the Y-steering -- or is that basically putting a band aid on a cut that isn't bleeding?
It appears that the tie rod between the knuckles is about 4 inches or so longer than that of the XJ?
If I go to the WJ knuckles, would it be advantageous just to grab the WJ tie rod between the knuckles and the WJ tie rod from the knuckle to the pitman arm and transplant it on to the XJ to do away with the Y-steering -- or is that basically putting a band aid on a cut that isn't bleeding?
It appears that the tie rod between the knuckles is about 4 inches or so longer than that of the XJ?
bmsmalley
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Montgomery Texas
Go with the 1 ton TRE and flip on 1.5" DOM links!
paddlernate
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Portland, OR
This. Since you have to cut and weld the WJ stuff to shorten it, you might as well fab up some proper links. The 1ton stuff is beefier. Use ruff stuff's kit, reasonable shipping costs.
- Location
- WA state
If you decide to go with the WJ crossover, consider buying the Clayton offroad WJ steering swap links, and source stock WJ rid ends local. The taper on the joint itself is the same as XJ, but the shank is 24mm. Which is larger than the 7/8" shank on 1-ton TRE.
Cottontail
Three-De Off-Road
- Location
- Nashville, TN
I couldn't find that on their website....unless I was looking for the totally wrong thing.
- Location
- WA state
https://claytonoffroad.com/products/tjljxjzj-high-steer-tie-rod-link-bar
High steer Tie rod, no TRE's
https://www.claytonoffroad.com/products/tjljxjzj-high-steer-drag-link-bar
High steer Drag Link, no TRE's
https://www.claytonoffroad.com/products/tjljxjzj-high-steer-drag-link-bar
You will also need (1) pair of RH Jam nuts, and (1) pair of LH Jam nuts
They do sell the links with TRE, but probably cheaper to source local, amazon or other.
When you go to their store and do a search, just enter STEERING in the top box, CLAYTON OFF ROAD in middle and XJ CHEROKEE in the last one and hit search.
High steer Tie rod, no TRE's
https://www.claytonoffroad.com/products/tjljxjzj-high-steer-drag-link-bar
High steer Drag Link, no TRE's
https://www.claytonoffroad.com/products/tjljxjzj-high-steer-drag-link-bar
You will also need (1) pair of RH Jam nuts, and (1) pair of LH Jam nuts
They do sell the links with TRE, but probably cheaper to source local, amazon or other.
When you go to their store and do a search, just enter STEERING in the top box, CLAYTON OFF ROAD in middle and XJ CHEROKEE in the last one and hit search.
Devilfrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncan, BC
The shank on the TRE's may be 2mm larger than the 7/8" TRE's .... But the taper pin is considerably smaller, so choose accordingly.
yossarian19
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grass Valley, CA
I haven't heard of anyone shearing a taper when their steering hits a rock. Bending a shank or linkage, on the other hand...
Devilfrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncan, BC
Yeah, place them side by side, the 7/8 head is also slightly larger.
But really, it come down to choice, either one is heads above stock. IMO the 7/8" wins due to availability and ease of manufacturing the rods. 24mm is still fairly oddball even here in Canada. And this is coming from having both 7/8 TRE's and WJ TRE's in hand ... even bought the correct 24mm R/L taps ...
Two choices ... Ream, and run 7/8" or ream, sleeve and run 24mm. As far as links, you'll be running the same size DOM anyway so really it comes down to the TRE's themselves. And overkill is still overkill in the end. Pick your poison.
I went 7/8" as it made the most sense at the time, simple ream and go for OTK. Off the shelf parts at half the cost.
If you still wanna argue size, go for it, but my money is still on the highly likely I'll break them before the steering box 7/8" ends.
Not saying I wouldn't run WJ's ... Had I stayed UTK they would have been the choice, going OTK for me made the decision.
But really, it come down to choice, either one is heads above stock. IMO the 7/8" wins due to availability and ease of manufacturing the rods. 24mm is still fairly oddball even here in Canada. And this is coming from having both 7/8 TRE's and WJ TRE's in hand ... even bought the correct 24mm R/L taps ...
Two choices ... Ream, and run 7/8" or ream, sleeve and run 24mm. As far as links, you'll be running the same size DOM anyway so really it comes down to the TRE's themselves. And overkill is still overkill in the end. Pick your poison.
I went 7/8" as it made the most sense at the time, simple ream and go for OTK. Off the shelf parts at half the cost.
If you still wanna argue size, go for it, but my money is still on the highly likely I'll break them before the steering box 7/8" ends.
Not saying I wouldn't run WJ's ... Had I stayed UTK they would have been the choice, going OTK for me made the decision.
