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WJ brake upgrade for a 2001 XJ... Simplified?

Which track bar brace is that? RE?

I fabbed it up myself. The tracbar set up is from TnT, I added 1" to the bottom of the bracket and redrilled the hole 1" lower to eliminate some bumpsteer from my old setup. I added the brace to help with the added force on the bracket since I moved the mount farther from "frame".

I think something people need to realize, is just because you are able to fit the caliper over the rotor and bolt it to the knuckle, does NOT mean that you didn't need any spacers. As some people have mentioned before, even with brand new pads, your calipers will allow for a little bit of left/right float. Meaning, your caliper sliders will slide to adjust for your incorrect offset.

Honestly, this isn't a big deal. The only time this will become a real issue is if you run your pads very low, and you overextend your caliper float in one direction. Then you could run into the situation where only one pad is applying pressure to the rotor. You'd get really bad braking performance and pontially damage your rotor.

I for one, when I do this swap I will try my best to space the caliper properly. I won't fret too much about being absolutely perfect though, down to the hundreth of an inch. That's just silly.

I agree 100%. Mine were almost perfectly centered with no spacers. If I had used a spacer it would have been less than 1/16". IIRC there was less than 1/8", if that much, clearance on either side of the caliper bracket so there is not much room for error there.
 
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On a side note.....

Anyone doing this swap, do yourself a favor and ditch the WJ drag link ends and use the high misalignment chevy 1 ton ends for your drag link. The WJ end at the pitman arm has less range of motion than my stock steering did. It also eliminates the need to source a RHD TRE for the knuckle end of the draglink when you run this setup OTK. You can't use the JKS draglink with the Chevy DLEs but you can fab one out of DOM for about the same price.

I am using ES2026R and ES2027L Chevy 1 Ton DLEs. (Someone double check me on that plz) Some good info on 1 ton TREs here: http://www.jeepfan.com/tech/tierod-id.php
 
The 2000/2001 did have a different axle, sort of. They have a low pinion Dana 30 versus the high pinion, but that doesn't really matter here. The axle length/width on the Dana 30's is the same between the years.

The difference between the 00/01 axles is that they used a different hub assembly to compensate for cast rotors (versus the composite rotors used on pre '99.5.)

The .25" spacer from JKS has nothing to do with the brake alignment or hub offset. It is needed in order to get the u-joint on the axle to line up with the ball joint center of rotation.

Yes, but you have to realize that spacing out your unit bearing WILL affect your brake offset. Reason being, you are pushing out the rotor, but the caliper remains mounted to the same spot.
 
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Yes, but you have to realize that spacing out your unit bearing WILL affect your brake offset. Reason being, you are pushing out the rotor, but the caliper remains mounted to the same spot.

Sure it does. However, if the u-joint center doesn't line up with the ball joint axis, you'll have a lot more to worry about than the caliper lining up.
 
What angles in the steering am I looking for as far as the drag link is concerned? Mine isnt lifted, and Id like to use as much of the jy WJ steering just to keep costs down. On the WJ it looks like the steering damper is mounted to the axle, but clamped on to the horizontal bar that goes from the pass knuckle to the drivers knuckle (cant think of the actual name). It looks like you could just reverse it to fit it on the XJ. Correct? Id like to keep it as simple as possible. Also, will I need to change my swaybar axle mounting location? Sorry for the stupid questions, I just want to know what Im doing in my head before I do it and wreck something.
 
Funny you ask......I just finished this upgrade.....I installed a set of used 2004 Wj knuckles with Akebono Stainless Calipers (local wrecking yard). They are a direct bolt on to the 30 inners. I attached EBC 2002 Ford Sport-trac 4x4 front rotors directly onto 2002 Tj bearings after removing the studs and shaving the Timken bearing housings to accept the rotors. I had a pair of shims water-cut to properly space out the rotors and center them in the calipers because the spacers that you order come too thin ( I have an extra set of spacers for sale FYI !!!!!! ). I then ground down about 0.350" from the calipers to clear my 15" aluminum wheels. I installed a Vanco Hydro Brake unit with my stock M/C. To complete it I tried to install a set of screaming Yellow EBC pads, but couldn't find any in stock, so I settled for EBC Ceramics. It is really a pretty simple install. Don't be overwhelmed by it at all. Alltogether I recommend this over the cost of a Vanco setup. Besides, I also installed a 1999-2004 Wj Steering link and narrowed and strengthened a stock Wj tie rod for a true crossover semi-high steer set up at the same time. It by the way clears my Currie sway bar brackets just fine. Hope that helps. j0hnnycarrera
 
Hey j0hnnycarrera, what backspacing do you have on those 15" aluminum wheels? Im trying to gather as much data as I can, but Im thinking I won't be able to clear my 15" 4.5" BS aluminum wheels even if Im friendly with the grinder... Just my guess from what I've read, somebody prove me wrong.
 
I think a wagoneer pitman arm has about the same drop as an XJ, but is the length of the WJ arm. That's what you'd want to keep the correct ackerman angles, or so I hear.
 
I think a wagoneer pitman arm has about the same drop as an XJ, but is the length of the WJ arm. That's what you'd want to keep the correct ackerman angles, or so I hear.
Ackerman angles have nothing to do with the pitman arm
 
I think a wagoneer pitman arm has about the same drop as an XJ, but is the length of the WJ arm.

Correction: A waggy DROPPED pitman arm is the same drop as a stock XJ arm. The waggy is longer though. (a stock waggy arm is basically flat) In case anyone goes looking, I found that PORC had the best price on them.
 
Do you know if it works or just try it? I would if I had one laying around, but since I dont Id rather not pay for random stuff. Im sure I could find one cheaper than the PORC waggy arm so if it works that would be swell.

I am sorry, but I don't know what arm would work at the stock height. I would assume a stock TJ arm would be pretty easy to geta hold of.

I set up my steering and track bar with a stock XJ arm (at 4.5" of lift). I found I needed the longer arm to get a little more steering angle out of it, so that is why I went with a dropped waggy arm. (wanted to keep all my angles the same though)
 
Any one know if the Rock Equipment tie rod flip kit with the tapered inserts will work witht the WJ TREs? Are they the same taper as the XJ TREs?
 
Do you know if it works or just try it? I would if I had one laying around, but since I dont Id rather not pay for random stuff. Im sure I could find one cheaper than the PORC waggy arm so if it works that would be swell.


Thats what I am running(the TJ arm) on my WJ setup w/ 5" lift. The waggy one is flat, the TJ one is about an inch lower than the waggy one. They're easy to find, I have 2 extras for spares. I dont see why it wouldnt work on a stock height application.
 
Cpuple of questions:

Any of you guys using the TNT front Truss with the OTK or HySteer Trac-Bar mount?

To run the WJ TRE's OTK what are you guys using in the knuckles to acomplish the flip? Weld in inserts? If so from where?
 
Cpuple of questions:

To run the WJ TRE's OTK what are you guys using in the knuckles to acomplish the flip? Weld in inserts? If so from where?

I am using the weld in inserts from goferit. That said though, I am using teraflex offset tie rod ends, not the WJ stuff. I don't know if the WJ TRE's have the same taper as the stock XJ ones.
 
Funny you ask......I just finished this upgrade.....I installed a set of used 2004 Wj knuckles with Akebono Stainless Calipers (local wrecking yard). They are a direct bolt on to the 30 inners. I attached EBC 2002 Ford Sport-trac 4x4 front rotors directly onto 2002 Tj bearings after removing the studs and shaving the Timken bearing housings to accept the rotors. I had a pair of shims water-cut to properly space out the rotors and center them in the calipers because the spacers that you order come too thin ( I have an extra set of spacers for sale FYI !!!!!! ). I then ground down about 0.350" from the calipers to clear my 15" aluminum wheels. I installed a Vanco Hydro Brake unit with my stock M/C. To complete it I tried to install a set of screaming Yellow EBC pads, but couldn't find any in stock, so I settled for EBC Ceramics. It is really a pretty simple install. Don't be overwhelmed by it at all. Alltogether I recommend this over the cost of a Vanco setup. Besides, I also installed a 1999-2004 Wj Steering link and narrowed and strengthened a stock Wj tie rod for a true crossover semi-high steer set up at the same time. It by the way clears my Currie sway bar brackets just fine. Hope that helps. j0hnnycarrera

Hope you used WJ lower ball joints, otherwise, your setup will be screwed after a while. The XJ lowers don't have the right taper for the WJ outers - it might seem right at first, but down the road...you'll need new outers!
 
I'm building a HP 30 from a '99 XJ for my MJ project with WJ steering set-up. So far the list below is what I've compiled. What am I missing?

WJ Knuckles - Right/Left
WJ Ball Joints - New Top/Bottom for both Sides
WJ Tie Rod Ends - 4 - 2 tie rod/ 2 drag link
WJ Akebono Calipers and all related brackets/bolts
GoFerIt(sp?) OTK Flip Inserts - 3 Welded In
New Unit Bearings - 00-01 XJ or TJ
New WJ Rotors redrilled to 5x4.5
JKS .25" Knuckle/Hub Spacers - Both Sides (2)
JKS Drag Link and Tie Rod (XJ, MJ, TJ length)
TNT Dana 30 Truss with built in Hysteer/OTK Trac Bar mount
RE Drop Trac Bar mount
RE XD Trac Bar/Shortened for OTK

Thanks
 
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