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Why do people hate 6.5 shortarm kits?

My 6.5" short arms ride like crap on the highway but does just fine on the trail. And most 6.5" short arm kits come with adjustable upper and lowers. So therefore my caster is perfect and my wheelbase didn't "shrink" at all, oh and I have plenty of down travel. If it was a DD i'd have long arms.
 
ah ok. this is the kind of answer i was looking for. i knew it had something to do with travel, but wasnt sure of which was was affected.

The downtravel is a minor thing. The main issue is the angle. The arms force the wheel into bumps, so they aren't absorbed well.

You know how motorcycles have forks angled back? Imagine if they were angled the other way.

Think your tin can creaks and groans now? Imagine after a few thousand miles of the unibody taking the shock of every bump!
 
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The downtravel is a minor thing. The main issue is the angle. The arms force the wheel into bumps, so they aren't absorbed well.

You know how motorcycles have forks angled back? Imagine if they were angled the other way.

Think your tin can creaks and groans now? Imagine after a few thousand miles of the unibody taking the shock of every bump!
quoted for search posterity...

My XJ with a 7" longarm rides smoother than it did with a 4.5" short arm lift. There was a very rough section of road I traveled every day, and while still rough, it was no long bone-jarring to hit that spot.
 
Ive got about 7" on a short arm with drop brackets. it rides better than stock, and it flexes like my springs are melting.

IMG_2891.jpg
 
Ive got about 7" on a short arm with drop brackets. it rides better than stock, and it flexes like my springs are melting.

IMG_2891.jpg


You live in the PDX area? Where is this picture taken? Looks like its a sweet line. I hardly ever make it over to the other side of the mountains.
 
Kris, that picture is at browns camp near tillimook oregon.

On a side note, Ive been talking to Kris about doing a 4 link rear for the xj.
you guys should check out his site. He does great work, and his pricing is hard to beat.
 
I have drop brackets on a 6.5 and They are like anchors I drag them all the time. My advice is to just buy the lift you want.
The way you want it in the first place instead of up grading later on its cheaper in the long run.
 
I agree that you should just buy the right lift to begin with.

Ive heard somebody else complain about the drop brackets hitting everything. I dont think you guys consider that the angle of the longarms is in the same place as the outer corners of the drop brackets. so, if you are hitting on your drop kit, you'll hit there on your longarm kit. its just the way it is.

You can always build some skids for the brackets if its a constant problem. IMO, the drop kit is absolutely the way to go over a conventional longarm kit.

Of course, ive wheeled the piss out of my setup, and i dont think ive hit more than a handful of times.
 
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I agree that you should just buy the right lift to begin with.

Ive heard somebody else complain about the drop brackets hitting everything. I dont think you guys consider that the angle of the longarms is in the same place as the outer corners of the drop brackets. so, if you are hitting on your drop kit, you'll hit there on your longarm kit. its just the way it is.

You can always build some skids for the brackets if its a constant problem. IMO, the drop kit is absolutely the way to go over a conventional longarm kit.

Of course, ive wheeled the piss out of my setup, and i dont think ive hit more than a handful of times.


You get hung up on drop brackets, not long arms. If anything the long arms just act as sliders and you can still pull forward or backward and not damage anything. Since drop brackets are usually some sort of plate they will dig into the rock or obstacle and possibly not be able to move. If you throttle through it you can risk more damage and tear off the brackets all together.
 
You get hung up on drop brackets, not long arms. If anything the long arms just act as sliders and you can still pull forward or backward and not damage anything. Since drop brackets are usually some sort of plate they will dig into the rock or obstacle and possibly not be able to move. If you throttle through it you can risk more damage and tear off the brackets all together.


hence why I would suggest building a slider for them. problem solved.
 
You get hung up on drop brackets, not long arms. If anything the long arms just act as sliders and you can still pull forward or backward and not damage anything. Since drop brackets are usually some sort of plate they will dig into the rock or obstacle and possibly not be able to move. If you throttle through it you can risk more damage and tear off the brackets all together.

If you are driving in a situation where DB's would hang up and risk being torn off you need long arms anyways. DB's are perfect for your weekend warrior who doesn't hit rocks very often.
 
This kills me ....how are you guys getting hung up on the brackets....it has never happened to me ... i am not saying that long arms are not ...BETTER but at what cost. something eles is were your drive it. I am thinking you guys are rock crawlers, i dont want to start the whole rocks vs mud thing but i dont have the rock option were i am so it is trails and alot of mud... i have never been hung up on the bracket in three years. as far as the way it drives, its a little darty from time to time but can do the hiway at 60 all day. oh and travel is 16 inches untill i unbolt the shock then its 19....i need new shocks .. this set up works great for a lot less money than most long arm kits. i wish i could post pics but i am not alowed
 
I dont think you guys consider that the angle of the longarms is in the same place as the outer corners of the drop brackets. so, if you are hitting on your drop kit, you'll hit there on your longarm kit. its just the way it is.

This would also Depend on what Kit your running. I have a better chance hitting my Drive Shaft or Frame at times before hitting my Long arms.
 
This kills me ....how are you guys getting hung up on the brackets....it has never happened to me ... i am not saying that long arms are not ...BETTER but at what cost. something eles is were your drive it. I am thinking you guys are rock crawlers, i dont want to start the whole rocks vs mud thing but i dont have the rock option were i am so it is trails and alot of mud... i have never been hung up on the bracket in three years. as far as the way it drives, its a little darty from time to time but can do the hiway at 60 all day. oh and travel is 16 inches untill i unbolt the shock then its 19....i need new shocks .. this set up works great for a lot less money than most long arm kits. i wish i could post pics but i am not alowed

Honestly, Im more of an overall trail guy too. I spend most of my time up in the woods. I like having to maneuver between trees and other obstacles, side hilling, and crawling over roots and stumps. You can choose your line to some point but there is pretty much one direction you are forced to go. With rocks its pretty much, where do I want to stick my xj today. In that crack or over that water fall.

You have never got your DBs stuck on stumps or fallen trees? Thats what I see around here all the time.
As far as the dartiness goes. I can and have pulled a 16 ft trailer 80 MPH down a freeway no problem, and I dont even run sway bars. (I usually slow it down to 60 for better gas mileage) But I dont see any dartiness and it doesnt feel like the front end is floating around at all.
 
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