Please note I said wheeling not just running them to the mall. After my trip to Moab I wanna turn up the dial on the XJ. I've acquired a free Front TJ rubi 44 housing and a brand new E cited locker for basically nothing. I'd probably swap in a 8.8 in the rear for strength, gear selection and there cheap plentiful and link the rear. Wondering of these axles are up to it like wise with the NP231. Prob beef it up with some HD planiteries and a wider chain and SYE.
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Who's wheeling 37" tires?
- Thread starter XJ jay
- Start date
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
8.8 will handle 37s no problem with a good locker and aftermarket shafts. A friend of mine two towns over has been beating the hell out of his 8.8 on 39" stickies for years now in his tubed out wrangler w/ Ford 5.0, np435, not sure what tcase, double beadlocks and a front hybrid d30-9" with RCV shafts. He could break a goddamn anvil so that's pretty impressive. Stock diff carrier will split like an eggshell though. Weld the tubes, truss it, wheel it.
No idea on the TJ 44. Probably not though unless you go easy on it. Depends on terrain, driver skill, engine power, auto vs manual, driver abuse, phase of the moon, etc.
No idea on the TJ 44. Probably not though unless you go easy on it. Depends on terrain, driver skill, engine power, auto vs manual, driver abuse, phase of the moon, etc.
- Location
- Cheyenne, Wyoming
I am so glad someone else has also picked up on this super important aspect. I have yet to break anything on 37s with d30 or 8.25 because i refuse to wheel on anything but a waxing crescent:wierd:
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I'm glad I don't wheel with you.
People scare me
U wouldnt keep up
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
LOL cool story bro
not sure if you are talking about technical rock crawling or speed, don't care. A friend of mine who has been rally driving for years tore my oh-shit handle off because I was going too fast a while ago.
Regardless, thread back on track... any info on terrain/vehicle specs OP?
not sure if you are talking about technical rock crawling or speed, don't care. A friend of mine who has been rally driving for years tore my oh-shit handle off because I was going too fast a while ago.
Regardless, thread back on track... any info on terrain/vehicle specs OP?
Outlander560
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New York
agreed on the 8.8 its one tough SOB when built right....i would have went that route but had a good deal on a xj 44...i came accross plenty running 37s on the 8.8...
the tj 44 house meh thats a little here and there...some say oh its GREAT...other say its a 44 pumpkin with d30 tubes and inner C's...i'd say since you got it for such a bargain you can put a good amount of coin into it...sleeved trussed wj upgrade and with it being high pinion and have the bigger Ring and Pinion i'd say it could handle the 37s...
but like Kastein previously mentioned info about your vehicle/terrain and all that would really help us out
the tj 44 house meh thats a little here and there...some say oh its GREAT...other say its a 44 pumpkin with d30 tubes and inner C's...i'd say since you got it for such a bargain you can put a good amount of coin into it...sleeved trussed wj upgrade and with it being high pinion and have the bigger Ring and Pinion i'd say it could handle the 37s...
but like Kastein previously mentioned info about your vehicle/terrain and all that would really help us out
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Looking at pics online it basically does have d30 tubes and inner Cs. Rear 44s have spindly tubes too though, which is why I think the 8.8 is a superior axle (3.25" diameter 1/4" thick axle tubes? Yes please!) especially since they are everywhere in the yards for $130 with discs and gears down to 4.10 when XJ 44s are rare and expensive. 8.8s are a great deal bang for buck if you can do the welding yourself.
The front 44... well, for the price you got it for, it's a hell of a steal. If you're nice to it or you put some of the cash you saved on the axle housing into a good set of alloys, spicer 760s and full circle clips, or even RCVs for it, you will probably be quite happy with it.
The front 44... well, for the price you got it for, it's a hell of a steal. If you're nice to it or you put some of the cash you saved on the axle housing into a good set of alloys, spicer 760s and full circle clips, or even RCVs for it, you will probably be quite happy with it.
Outlander560
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New York
agreed the 8.8 is plentiful and is a fantastic axle......but 4.88s a detroit, superior shaft and 8.8 discs i couldnt toss up the deal on the xj 44
we get it, you're cool, who cares.... :worship:
OP some better info would be cool to help ya out a bit
d44's are fine for 37's...truss the housing and gusset the c's ...bring spare shafts/u-joints if you can't keep stock shafts/u-joints alive upgrade them . Only you can be the judge of what will hold up to your wheeling ...lol...for some 37's may require 2.5 tons with everything Ouverson makes to wheel the mall and some could 9+ rated trails on a d30/8.25
QUOTED FOR TRUTH
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I don't think a 44 would last on 37s in pac northwest / east coast "we have rocks but they're covered in mud and moss" pin it to win it style wheeling, but on dry rock in the rockies and southwest? Hell yeah.
e: hell, I have a bunch of friends who have nuked 44 parts on 35s and 33s out here. Terrain and driving style have a huge amount of impact on axle durability obviously, and terrain sometimes forces certain driving styles.
e: hell, I have a bunch of friends who have nuked 44 parts on 35s and 33s out here. Terrain and driving style have a huge amount of impact on axle durability obviously, and terrain sometimes forces certain driving styles.
I 100% agree... depends what terrain and ur driving style for what will work and what wont...
ktm racer 419
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- ROW DIALIN
np231 is fine, they are cheap and everywhere. if it breaks, get another 231 and bolt it in. I had no real issues with mine over the years. The sye is a must and has other advantages, not just to eliminate driveline vibrations.
an 8.8 in the back should be fine granted you put a little time and money into it, like said, eliminate the weak points.
as for the rubi 44 up front, either wheel with a light foot, or spend some coin on it and wheel with a slightly heavier foot. beware of undercuts and know when to not give it the throttle. I blew apart enough 44 parts on 35's and 36's to make a couple statues out of them.
does this rig have an automatic or standard? it is a lot easier to keep driveline parts together with a slushbox versus the shock loading a clutch can do.
if you can make stock axles hold up to 39.5s, you don't need 39.5s.
Sorry for the vague post, i suppose I should have mention I plan to sleeve, truss the tubes and reinforce the "C"s on the TJ44 and run ChroMo shafts. The rear 8.8 will be trussed, unsure if I'd rock a spool, LSD or some kinda locker, but I'd do after market 31 spine axles and probably c clip eliminators and try to find a diff with discs. Gears would be 5:13s, stock 4L and AW4. I'd love a 4:1 t case or an atlas, but only if I could find one at the right price.
I'm a pretty conservative wheeler, not afraid to hit the gas, but I try to crawl over what I can. The terrain around here is pretty mild, nothing my 33s can't handle, but I'd like to participate in DTC in South Dakota, and run some big boy trails in Moab and would love to do the Rubicon.
I'm a pretty conservative wheeler, not afraid to hit the gas, but I try to crawl over what I can. The terrain around here is pretty mild, nothing my 33s can't handle, but I'd like to participate in DTC in South Dakota, and run some big boy trails in Moab and would love to do the Rubicon.
