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What's your current Engine Oil??

RyanM said:
Since it got dug up.

RP SL rated, 10w-40. K&N oversized filter. I won't put any of the new SM off the shelf oil's in my rig, or the Group III synthetics. They are niether POA, or PolyEster, nor do they carry the zinc and Ph anymore.edit*(not as much as they should for our cams) (Mobil, Castrol, Penz, Q.S. etc.) I would consider Rotella 15w40 but they have too cut the ZDDP.
My engine is running fine, looks very clean inside and has for the majority of its 270k miles run on straight dino oil.....sometimes whatever was on sale at the Pep Boys.

I run Delo 400 now because the oil pressure remains steady for long periods on the highway but just as importantly because it comes in a 1 gallon jug. ;)

So I'm curious about the cost/benefit analysis you've done to justify the expense of Royal Purple or any other "premium" oil, synthetic or otherwise? It seems to be an expensive alternative if the oil change interval is not increased to justify the cost.
 
John90XJ said:
So I'm curious about the cost/benefit analysis you've done to justify the expense of Royal Purple or any other "premium" oil, synthetic or otherwise? It seems to be an expensive alternative if the oil change interval is not increased to justify the cost.

I know this wasn't addressed at me, but I run extended intervals with the Royal Purple. In my Acura I changed the filter every time the MID tells me an oil change is due and I change the oil every other time. It usually works out to about 7500 miles on the filter and 15000 miles on the oil

I haven't decided what oil change interval I'm going to do on the XJ, it's my DD but it will probably only see about 8k a year so I'll probably change it yearly regardless of mileage.

I've done extended intervals on just about every vehicle I've ever owned, my old Toyota truck that is now owned by a coworker has over 300k on the motor now without a single oil related problem, and last time I saw an old honda civic I had it was going on 280k without any issues.
 
MisterFubar said:
I know this wasn't addressed at me, but I run extended intervals with the Royal Purple. In my Acura I changed the filter every time the MID tells me an oil change is due and I change the oil every other time. It usually works out to about 7500 miles on the filter and 15000 miles on the oil

I haven't decided what oil change interval I'm going to do on the XJ, it's my DD but it will probably only see about 8k a year so I'll probably change it yearly regardless of mileage.

I've done extended intervals on just about every vehicle I've ever owned, my old Toyota truck that is now owned by a coworker has over 300k on the motor now without a single oil related problem, and last time I saw an old honda civic I had it was going on 280k without any issues.

Thanks for the input.

I use mine almost exclusively offroad (driven to the trail and back) and change the oil on a 2-3,000 mile schedule. It would be cost prohibitive for an engine used this way to use anything more than about $2-3 a quart.
 
John90XJ said:
My engine is running fine, looks very clean inside and has for the majority of its 270k miles run on straight dino oil.....sometimes whatever was on sale at the Pep Boys.

I run Delo 400 now because the oil pressure remains steady for long periods on the highway but just as importantly because it comes in a 1 gallon jug. ;)

So I'm curious about the cost/benefit analysis you've done to justify the expense of Royal Purple or any other "premium" oil, synthetic or otherwise? It seems to be an expensive alternative if the oil change interval is not increased to justify the cost.
This year's Dino oils are different from what your motor has been seeing.

Cost/benefit? Mobil one is like a dollar cheaper! It's got true syn base oils. My motor runs cooler, cleaner. I can run it extended but I usually change it out every 4-5K. Piece of mind. SL rated. I don't mind paying a little more. Just like I pay more for a good filter not FRAM
icon13.gif
 
RyanM said:
This year's Dino oils are different from what your motor has been seeing.

I don't understand? How? My has been running Delo 400 for the last 2 years. How has that changed?

RyanM said:
Cost/benefit? Mobil one is like a dollar cheaper! It's got true syn base oils. My motor runs cooler, cleaner. I can run it extended but I usually change it out every 4-5K. Piece of mind. SL rated. I don't mind paying a little more. Just like I pay more for a good filter not FRAM
icon13.gif

You mentioned differences with a bunch of letters I don't think I understand fully. Can you elaborate?

Basically, if you're smart about oil, spill it!
 
John90XJ said:
I don't understand? How? My has been running Delo 400 for the last 2 years. How has that changed?

You mentioned differences with a bunch of letters I don't think I understand fully. Can you elaborate?

Basically, if you're smart about oil, spill it!
:rolleyes:
whatever dude, you said Dino, you didn't say anything about 2 years on Delo.
The new Oil's on shelf today are SM. Not as much ZDDP as SL and earlier rated oils.
 
Mobil 1 10w40 with a Fram Tough Guard filter..
It's a 99 with 73k on the clock.
 
RyanM said:
:rolleyes:
whatever dude, you said Dino, you didn't say anything about 2 years on Delo.
The new Oil's on shelf today are SM. Not as much ZDDP as SL and earlier rated oils.

I mentioned it was getting the Delo....I just figured since my rig is 17 years old and has had oil in it since the SF designation was new. Since you brought it up I did some research on the decline in Zinc Dialkyl DiothioPhosphates in the SM class and wonder this.....

If each class is backward compatible, why do I care in my older motor?
 
RyanM said:
I don't give a shit, why do you feel you have to be right Bye
Sheesh, don't get your panties in a bunch. I don't know WHY this is important but you suggested it was. Explain it is all I'm asking. How do we benefit from something you know if you don't share it? I'm not calling you out, I'm just asking.

Hell, 2 hours ago I had no idea ZDDP was even important. Now I know that not having it will be a disaster in an old motor recently rebuilt, like an MG.
 
John90XJ said:
I mentioned it was getting the Delo....I just figured since my rig is 17 years old and has had oil in it since the SF designation was new. Since you brought it up I did some research on the decline in Zinc Dialkyl DiothioPhosphates in the SM class and wonder this.....

If each class is backward compatible, why do I care in my older motor?

IMHO they are not truely backward compatible. Their marketing people, like lawyers can do wonders with the english language on a marking / product label.

Most of the answers, those answers we have draged out of some of the motor oil companies so far, are in the thread linked below which includes some links to some of the references that gotten us started looking at the reduced ZDDP problem which is and can cause early, rapid, flat tappet and cam failures in the older engine designs.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=923009
 
Ecomike said:
IMHO they are not truely backward compatible. Their marketing people, like lawyers can do wonders with the english language on a marking / product label.

Most of the answers, those answers we have draged out of some of the motor oil companies so far, are in the thread linked below which includes some links to some of the references that gotten us started looking at the reduced ZDDP problem which is and can cause early, rapid, flat tappet and cam failures in the older engine designs.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=923009

It looks like the diesel oils like Rotella and Delo have these still in the package...is that a fair assessment?

Reading the other thread now.....
 
This is off topic for an engine oil post. but could engine oil be used in your differential instead of gear oil? mainly in a pinch like on the trail or something like that. would it hurt or just be a temp fixer? k thx.
 
wow in 5 pages only 2 people with amsoil??? i figured with the strain of offroading more people would be run hi end synthetic.

95XJ and 97TJ both run AMSOIL 5-30 full synthetic with AMSOIL filter.
(also run AMSOIL in the automatic and manual tranny, t-case and diffs)

84 grand wagoneer currently running whatever cheap oil i have laying around. after i rebuild the engine, it'll be AMSOIL in everything.
 
scorpio_vette said:
wow in 5 pages only 2 people with amsoil??? i figured with the strain of offroading more people would be run hi end synthetic.

95XJ and 97TJ both run AMSOIL 5-30 full synthetic with AMSOIL filter.
(also run AMSOIL in the automatic and manual tranny, t-case and diffs)

84 grand wagoneer currently running whatever cheap oil i have laying around. after i rebuild the engine, it'll be AMSOIL in everything.

Bought the XJ at 135,000 miles. Switched to Amsoil at 140,000 miles .right now it has 227,+++ miles. The only leak it has is at the filter adaptor. I change the engine oil after 20,000 miles and the AW4 at 50,000 miles. I am yet to see a problem. Of course most of my driving is in the excess of 50 MPH and anywhere 30 minutes to 4 hrs non stop.
 
mobil one 10/30 full syn, changed every 5,000 or 6 mnths... whichever comes first.... either a k&n or mobil 1 oversized filter....

94 i6 5spd 225,000m, 100,000 on 97 engine, no problems...

btw, switched to syn with @ 60,000 on the 97 engine, (soon as it was installed, back in 02), never had any issues, but it was well maintained and had a pressure test and bleed down test on each cylinder, so i knew there were no seal issues on this one.... never had a single issue so far...
 
First of all I am a dealer for Amsoil, so you guys may think I am a little biased. Before I became a dealer, I put Amsoil 10w-40 in my old beat up and rolled over '93 XJ 4.0 with 190K miles as a last effort to prevent a rebuild (I just knew the engine was going to give up soon). I now have 225K miles on the same engine and it runs much stronger. It is hard to believe...I know. I was very skeptical that a specific oil could make that big of a difference. After I saw the improvement in my XJ, I put Amsoil in every vehicle i own. About a year later I became a dealer b/c I believe in it so much. You can also safely extend your drain interval to 1 year/25K miles which is very convenient. As for cost, depending on your application it will be equivalent to changing your oil 3-4 time per year with dino oil (which you should be changing your oil at least that often). If you guys have any questions feel free to email me: [email protected]
 
My first post. Funny, this is a topic I have been discussing and reading about on numerous boards and websites. I just purchased a 4.0L XJ (an '01 with 133k) and am considering oils and filters. Oil: Right now I am leaning toward any 10w-30 SL dino that will give me the ZDDP we all need for our flat tappet engines. I just spent a wad of $$$ on replacement of the oil pan gasket and rear main seal, and don't want to create more leaks, so syn. is out for me on this vehicle.

Filters: I found the link below to be very interesting. This guy apparently has done his homework. Reading through his website, I am leaning toward the Purolator Premium filter (or Wix / NAPA Gold as a fallback).

Footnotes: For those of you (like me to date) having Jeep dealerships doing your oil / filter changes (and for those of you buying Mopar filters), you need to read this guy's website. He purchased two Mopar filters, for the exact same application, and with the exact same part #, from two different Mopar dealership parts counters. In one instance he got a Wix manuf'd. filter, in the other he got a Fram !! And apparently, Mopar makes no special demands of these manufacturers....indicating to me that Mopar doesn't care what goes on/in your car. Need confirmation? My Jeep dealership did my first oil change. Afterwards I asked what oil they used and they said they buy oil in bulk, it's either Kendall 5w-30 dino or nothing. Doesn't matter what car it is, what the manuf's. recommendations are, etc.! This dealership sells and services all Jeep, Chrysler, and Dodge vehicles....old and new.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

__________________

kcmk
 
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