• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

What's your current Engine Oil??

92DripCherokee said:
I run mobil 1 15w40 in my 2000, and mobil clean 5000 10w30 in my 92.
Synthetic oil is superior in every way except initial cost. If you keep your automobiles long after their design life, like all of us fools, go with synthetic.

Seal, o-ring and gasket leaks will only worsen if they were shot and merely caked up in crud.

Mobil makes a fine oil, so does amsoil, castrol, kendall, valvoline.
I took the heads off a cadillac v8 engine with 98,000 miles that was fed valvoline for the last 40,000 and it was spotless, with zero sludge.

Quaker state and penzoil arent even oil. I've seen first hand what penzoil becomes, and its a sludge bomb. Saw a 1993 chevy 305 that was filled to the top of the valve cover with sludge.
Click to expand...

Wow..... not that I work for an oil company or anything..... but that chevy's problems were not the oil. The engine was the problem.....

All motor oils are based out of a base stock, what makes it penzoil or havoline is the additive package. Most base stock is the same, even for different manufacturers.....

Synthetics... that's a good one... most of them are a group three or four base stock and have a fancy additive package.

True synthetics... now thats some good oil. Mobil one is a true synthetic. Castrol, Pennzoil, Quaker State and most of the others are "engineered base stock".... Still a good oil, just not what you would expect. Royal Purple is also a true synth.... I heard that Redline is as well but have not seen proof. I have read a lot about amsoil's synthetics.... never have been able to pin them down on base stock or synthetic. Good product though.

If you follow your manufacturers specs and change your oil on time you will not have sludging with any oil. If your engine has problems ALL oils will sludge. If all you ever do is make short trips, never allowing your engine to heat up and burn off condensation inside the engine your oil WILL sludge up.

People will always blame a brand of oil instead of owning up to not taking care of their vehicle.
 
I've been doing a little research and have read that Castrol Syntec is not a "true" synthetic oil! Mobile 1 sued Castrol for the claim but lost. Castrol uses cat III base stock instead of IV? Who knew???
 
jerseyjeep01 said:
I've been doing a little research and have read that Castrol Syntec is not a "true" synthetic oil! Mobile 1 sued Castrol for the claim but lost. Castrol uses cat III base stock instead of IV? Who knew???
Click to expand...

Only one of the Castrol Syntec is a true synthetic....it is the 0w30 weight. If you read on the back of the bottle it says 'Made in Germany'. This is the GC oil that many claim is one of the (if not THE) best oils out there.

All other weights other than the 0w30 are not true syn.

It is a quite heavy 30 weight oil as well...just about w40
 
K2XJ said:
How often was that oil changed?? Any dino oil will sludge up if it isnt changed at the correct intervals.

Things have changed. Maybe in the past their oil was crap but time heals all. I think their formula has improved greatly. Pennzoil is a highly respected oil in many circles. Check out www.bobistheoilguy.com if you dont believe me. It has shown great used oil analysis.
Click to expand...

Lucas is good stuff, unlike what Bob says. Lucas responded and said that Bob worked for another oil company.......well you know what that means he was trying to do if that was true.....so don't trust everything that man says.
 
jerseyjeep01 said:
I use Castrol Syntec 10w-30 and a K&N filter. Has anyone heard anything about the Castrol Syntec oils good or bad?? Just wondering if I should switch out.
Click to expand...
I used Castrol Syntec in the afore mentioned Contour from 20K to about 165K. I ran 5K oil changes in warranty and did some close to 10K out of warranty. The last one I remembered was a 9K oil change at probably 155K or more. The engine used 1/2 a quart during that time. So its not a bad oil. There may be better. It does come down to cost though. Pennsoil Platinum is gaining respect. Both are Group 3. I think Ferrari ran Shell group 3 oils in F1. I think they did OK. I hear some of Mobil 1 is being reformulated to group 3. Probably cost.
 
I run Quaker state Q full syn, have done so for approx 8months, have had small oil burning since then, to be honest I'm afraid to go back to regular oil, I've heard it is not good to switch back once you've been running syn for a while, I run syn because of the frigid winters up here and Im on the FD so for middle of the night calls I dont have time to warm up the jeep its just run and gun and I thought syn would offer me better cold start protection. I run a fram syn filter and oversized at that but I still burn some oil, not enough to cause alarm, I have 200,000 miles on the baby! And I keep Lucas in it regularly. Should I switch back or stay on track?
 
75SV1 said:
I think Ferrari ran Shell group 3 oils in F1.
Click to expand...
Don't believe what they tell you.
When I was racing (30 years ago) we took the sponsor money from Kendall, had their name on the car and actually used Eon E-11 (one of the first synthetic oils); we hid the cans, and left some Kendall out where it could be seen.
 
tkjeeper said:
I run Quaker state Q full syn, have done so for approx 8months, have had small oil burning since then, to be honest I'm afraid to go back to regular oil, I've heard it is not good to switch back once you've been running syn for a while, I run syn because of the frigid winters up here and Im on the FD so for middle of the night calls I dont have time to warm up the jeep its just run and gun and I thought syn would offer me better cold start protection. I run a fram syn filter and oversized at that but I still burn some oil, not enough to cause alarm, I have 200,000 miles on the baby! And I keep Lucas in it regularly. Should I switch back or stay on track?
Click to expand...
Its a myth that you can't change back and forth between dino and synth oils. Up to the early '80s this might have been true. I remember hearing/reading that you couldn't mix the two. Now you can. With the cold weather and your need of quick starts, I'd stick with synthetics. The only problem would be if you had leaks. Still, once you use synthetics, I hear you'd be stuck with the leaks. It would be best to repair them. It doesn't sound like you have leaks though. It could be getting past the valve guides though. I hear there is sometime increased oil consumption when you first switch over to synth oils from conventionals. Sometimes it goes away. You might also try a different brand. The reason I went with Castrol Syntec over Mobil 1 around 1997 was that one guy were I worked said he got less oil consumption with Castrol than Mobil 1. I'm not saying QS is a bad oil.
With the Ferrrari oil, that could be true on it being a different oil. Another thought is that it could be something Shell specially formulated and it was'nt available off the shelf. Probably not available to anyone esle. When Mansel won with Williams Renault they used a gas refered to as the 'Witches Brew'.
Tom
 
I have a 97XJ 4.0L with 180,000mi and was contemplating switching to a synthetic. I have read that oil companies are reformulating their dyno oils and that is what spurred my thoughts toward synthetic. I just recently (within 2 weeks) replaced the rear main seal, the oil pan gasket, timing case cover gasket and the front main seal on the timing case cover. Is this a good time to switch to a synthetic since I have replaced almost all of the gaskets?

When I pulled the oil pan off, it was surprisingly clean. Very little sludge like residue. It was friggin clean! Makes me kind of nervous to switch when it seems to be doing fine on dyno oil.

Also, I tow a 4000# camp trailer in summer about twice a month. Should I be running a heavier viscosity? I currently am using 10W-30 Quaker State High Mileage oil with a K&N filter.

:patriot:
 
My last change was a wix filter, 1 qt of Royal Purple 20w-50 and then filled with Royal Purple 10w-30. That was the last of the royal purple I had laying around and it's getting hard to find for a decent price so I'm not sure what I'll run next time.
 
Mobil 1 in all 3 vehicles.

Motorcraft filter in the Explorer.
AC Delco filter in the Grand Prix GT.
PureOne filter in the XJ, I used to have a case of Mopar filters I got from a buddy at the dealer, but I ran out and he doesn't work there anymore.

We have a few filters cut open at work for display, all of them have metal "cups" the filter material rests on, except for the Fram, which uses cardboard!
 
Since it got dug up.

RP SL rated, 10w-40. K&N oversized filter. I won't put any of the new SM off the shelf oil's in my rig, or the Group III synthetics. They are niether POA, or PolyEster, nor do they carry the zinc and Ph anymore.edit*(not as much as they should for our cams) (Mobil, Castrol, Penz, Q.S. etc.) I would consider Rotella 15w40 but they have too cut the ZDDP.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

O
0331 Strikes Again...?
Replies
11
Views
329
Ol Blue
O
JohnX
Before SCF, I need to finish....?
Replies
9
Views
112
Carol.92124
Carol.92124
B
Oil leak.
2
Replies
38
Views
6K
Bmfinney
B
A
1987 4.0 oil pressure problem
Replies
1
Views
1K
RCP Phx
R
R
Tips on lubricating the hood hinges?
Replies
6
Views
146
Rob Mayercik
R
Back
Top