Whats the Best SYE Kit?

[Mich88XJ]

With all the SYE kits on the market, which is the best. Any pros and cons. I am a college student, and need one that is cheap but good.

 

[98xjlimited]

I love my RE hack-n-tap and CV DS. Easy to install and enough people carry it to get a good price on the kit. Send RJ (TOZOVR) a PM. He's a RE dealer and was the best deal I found. Mine's been on for about a month and I got rid of vibes I never knew I had. Best mod I've done.

Ashley

 

[billsredxj]

I agree with 98xjlimited, easy mod, and the price is right.

 

[RCP Phx]

With all the SYE kits on the market, which is the best. Any pros and cons. I am a college student, and need one that is cheap but good.

Thats a contradiction of terms,the best for you and your Jeep would be a JB or AA kit.If you want something adequate for a lesser lift and moderate wheeling go with the RE kit!
BTW:the HD kits are only about a 100$ more but youll only do it one time.

 

[Goatman]

To me, there is only one way to go. The JB Conversions and the Advance Adapters kits come with a larger 32 spline output shaft, which is a major upgrade. The other kits use the stock 27 spline output shaft. The 32 spline shaft is much bigger, and can handle 1.5 times the torque of the other shaft.

I originally decided to save the $100 and went with the Currie SYE, and it worked perfectly for a long time. When I put in a rear D60, I didn't want the t-case output shaft to be the weakest link, so I put in an AA SYE. I would have been ahead to have done the better kit in the beginning. I'm recomending that you don't make the same mistake.

You may never break the stock output shaft, but you never know. I have seen a number of 27 spline output shafts break, and it's not a pretty repair. Your rig is basically stuck on the trail until you can come back and install another output shaft.

 

[98xjlimited]

With all the SYE kits on the market, which is the best. Any pros and cons. I am a college student, and need one that is cheap but good.

231 or 242? I'm running a 242 so that really narrowed my options down to RE or Tom Woods, and I really didn't want to crack the case. Just my .02

 

[Mich88XJ]

np231. Sounds like I will go with the more expensive one. Anyone know anything about the one from driveshaftsuperstore.com? It is $429, includes heavy duty drive shaft, and is 32 spline. Take a look for me would ya?

 

[Goatman]

The heavy duty kits with a 32 spline shaft are virtually the same. The picture looks like the AA kit, but there's no way to know for sure from a pic.

 

[XJJPR]

Sorry Goatman,

It is a JB kit but like you said it really doesn't matter which kit you get they are both good, and 32 spline.

However it might be for a tj and might be more for a longer XJ driveshaft.

mark
orgs mfg

 

[SV1CEC]

Gentlefolks,

I have a question here, regarding the hack and tap RE kit.

I figure out that in order to put this on my 1984 XJ, I need the following part numbers:

RE 1801 (hack-and-tap kit)
RE1802 (207 transfer case bearing spacer, yes I have a 207)

I also assume that I need their RE1898 driveshaft, which has a double cardan and a flange mount. However, in their "Details" for the driveshaft, they say:

Measurements are taken from flange face to center of the rear u-joint with the slip stub at the center of its travel. Measure your vehicle on the ground in the running position to get correct length.

However, I wouldn't have a flange to measure from, until I have their hack-and-tap kit on the truck. Does that mean that I have to get the kit first, install it on the truck, measure the distance specified, order the driveshaft and then wait for it to be made and shipped, while all this time my XJ is stuck in the driveway?

There should be some other way to do it, what do you think?

 

[LawlessXJ]

Gentlefolks,

I have a question here, regarding the hack and tap RE kit.

I initially translated that statement like that also, which didn't make sense to me either. Actually, after calling them to verify, all you need is the measurement from center of u-joint to center of u-joint of old shaft while still mounted on vehicle. They convert that number to the proper length cv shaft based on your year, t/c, etc.
Fit perfectly on mine.

 

[mdwatkins]

I know guys that have taken the R.E. hack and tap over Helldaroado in Moab a number of times without any problems. They swear by it...why crack the case open when you get the same results for less money.

True you're getting a new output that is bigger and stronger, but who of us really need that? If you're building a strick crawler then it's a deffinite, but for most of us the hack and tap gets the job done and will never give us any problems.

Matt

 

[RCP Phx]

You missing the "BIG" picture.The HD kits allow another 4" of driveshaft length,thus alot less wear/tear on the "entire" drivetrain(not just the tranfer case).The difference in price is about what its going to cost you to rebuild your driveshaft.