What the heck, wj blew up?

[Gary E]

Well not quite yet. But its got a nasty knock going on. Its got 150k on it, I changed oil every 3-5k miles it was using a quart of oil between oil changes. I just changed the oil and the wifey took it out 50 miles or so I hop in it today and notice the nasty noise, Shannon said oh yeah I was going to tell you about that. Oil level was fine but the oil pressure was much higher than normal, 60 psi its normally 30-40. I pulled the filter and it got fine gold dust mixed in the oil (well I wish it was gold)

So long story short anyone know where to get one of these motors for a reasonable price? Or where to get the shortblock rebuilt locally? The j-yards want $1500 and up for 100k+ milers.

Whats the chances I could slap some rod and main bearings in there and get another 50k miles?

This is a salvage jeep with a CRAPPY paint job, bondo cracking out, transfer case is junk (no more 4wd), so its not worth spending much money on. Its a 99 with the 4.7

 

[JeepFreak21]

We just ditched our '99 WJ with 167k last month...

Water pump needed replacing, but it was just one more thing.

We bought a 2007 WK V6 with 20k on the clock and a 8/80k warranty for $18k out the door, then sold the WJ for $3,800 (only took 2 hours on craigslist).

Good luck Gary!

Billy

 

[Gary E]

Ok got the oil pan off, looks like it spun a rod bearing, All the rod bearings are pretty tight will slide a little bit on the crank except one. It has side to side play. I pulled it off the bearing is not chunked but its all scratched up and the I can feel grooves with my fingernail in the cap and on the crank journal.

So about how long would this last if I just through a new bearing in? Would emery clothing the surfaces help?

 

[Gary E]

PS If I thought I could get 20k out of just replacing the bearing with a new one I would do that. They don't call me lazy Gary for nuthin.

 

[x2elite]

I would use some emery cloth on the surface, throw in a new bearing, put it back together, and see how it runs. It may run fine, or it may be toast. Either way a bearing that cost under $5, and a little of your time isn't too expensive of a test to find out. A friend of mine had the same thing happen to his 4 banger, and i dropped the pan, and replaced all the rod bearings, and so far he has gotten another 30k out of it, and still drives it every day.

 

[Bryan C.]

If all you are looking for is another 20K from it, I would try it. Do you have the tools to measure the journal? You might need a .010" undersize bearing.

 

[Gary E]

2.008 inches by my HF digital calipers I guess it grew its supposed to be 2 inches I beleive.

 

[x2elite]

Slap it back together, and let us know how it works.

 

[XJ_ranger]

at this point, you either have to put the use bearing back in...

or a $5 brand new one...

im lazy too, but id probably put a new one in...

 

[JeepFreak21]

at this point, you either have to put the use bearing back in...

or a $5 brand new one...

im lazy too, but id probably put a new one in...

Aren't ya supposed to replace all of them if you're gonna replace one?
Billy

 

[Bryan C.]

Aren't ya supposed to replace all of them if you're gonna replace one?
Billy

Yes and no. No point in replacing them all if only one is bad and all you want to do is patch it back together.

I would take a look at a few more rod bearings and see how worn thy are.

.008" is really close to needing the next size bearing. Do you have a micrometer to get a better reading on it? I guess plastigauge on the new bearing would work too if you don't have something more accurate to measure it with.

 

[Gary E]

Yeah I guess I should of picked up some plastiguage, but oh well I am going to slap it together and see what it does. But its 2.008 so my guage is wrong or there is bearing material on the crank because stock it is supposed to be 2 inches right? So if the crank read 1.99 then I would need the oversized bearing correct?

The chrysler dealer told me only 15 ftlbs on the rod bolts is that right? Seems pretty light.

 

[PurpleCherokee]

I bought a Marshall long block for right around $1600. But that was store cost cause my uncle owns a Napa I think they retail for $1800 but that's still a pretty good deal seeing as how it has like a 100k mile warranty.

 

[Gary E]

Well its all back together and its still knocking, not nearlly as bad like 1/10th the noise you can't hear it inside, was I a little to optimistic hopeing for no noise?

I did go grab some plastiguage. it was .004 to .005 clearance and the good bearing next to it was .003. I didn't pull all the caps but the spun one was a much darker color than all the rest (chrysler parts guy said that the bad ones would be a darker color.) I guess I will run it for a little while and see if the knock gets worse.:banghead: