What other radius arms are compatible with IRO long arm crossmember?

[xcm]

Not looking to start big problems, or get banned, just sharing my personal experience.

the banishment comment was in jest. thanks for posting this.

 

[twodoorXJ]

You can also buy TNT's long arms only, I just bought a set. I think they were $495 + shipping.

:wave:

Damn, id rather pay 40 extra bucks for TNT, especially considering after shipping theyll probably be the same price.

How long are the arms?

 

[Warlock1]

I think they'll adjust anywhere from 30"-35" bushing center hole to bushing center hole. I have mine set to 31 3/4" with the factory TNT crossmember. I also bought a set of only the arms for my buddy who is making his own crossmember. I would give TNT a call to find out for sure. Phone number is on their site.

 

[muddeprived]

Those long arms on Andy's website ain't the only long arms he makes. He has a long arm and crossmember that he's working on and it's BEEFY, probably the strongest arms out of all aftermarket companies. I'm trying to find the picture of them.

http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=5487

 

[srimes]

I hear wheel hop is common with radius arms so another brand probably won't fix that.

You could replace the castor bracket with a fixed one welded on. That would probably be the cheapest option. If you need adjustability you could mount an adjustable rod end and run a short shackel from the rod end to the axle mount.

 

[srimes]

OK I glanced at the bracket again, and it just adjusts the distance between the bolt on the arm and the axle mount. Set the castor you want and measure the distance between those bolts. Get some flat stock and make a shackle of the same length. Cheap, simple, strong. No welding required. If you want to change castor make a new pair.


It is B.S. that IRO didn't help you out more. Not the experience I had with them, but as a newer company they still have a lot to prove and it's very bad business for them to treat you like this.

 

[twodoorXJ]

OK I glanced at the bracket again, and it just adjusts the distance between the bolt on the arm and the axle mount. Set the castor you want and measure the distance between those bolts. Get some flat stock and make a shackle of the same length. Cheap, simple, strong. No welding required. If you want to change castor make a new pair.


It is B.S. that IRO didn't help you out more. Not the experience I had with them, but as a newer company they still have a lot to prove and it's very bad business for them to treat you like this.

Not trying to give IRO a bad rap, they usually have very good customer service, and they ship very fast, but i guess when it comes down to it, they dont want to stand behind their product.

 

[srimes]

Not trying to give IRO a bad rap, they usually have very good customer service, and they ship very fast, but i guess when it comes down to it, they dont want to stand behind their product.

Re-reading what I wrote I realize I wasn't too clear. I'm not saying that I don't believe your story, I'm saying it's wrong that they aren't fixing the problem.


So what do you think about replacing the cam adjuster with a short shackle?

 

[RCman]

So what do you think about replacing the cam adjuster with a short shackle?

A shackle? Can't do that unless he wants his pinion moving ALL the time.
It needs to be "fixed" at both ends. A shackle would add a point of movement.

Best plans in increasing order as far as cost:
1) Cut off the IRO upper "arm" and build a new one with proper attachments.
2) Build an entire new set of LCA/UCA arms.
3) Buy an entire new set of LCA/UCA arms.

 

[Wiser]

change ur arms with a true ylink style instead of that BS IRO. IRO has a flawed design.

 

[srimes]

A shackle? Can't do that unless he wants his pinion moving ALL the time.
It needs to be "fixed" at both ends. A shackle would add a point of movement.

No, it wouldn't. How would it move? The upper y is fixed on the IRO arm, it doesn't pivot like a common y-link.

 

[Demolition_x]

If you want the simplest way to make sure that bolt does not move either set caster where you want it set. Tack bolt in place with a welder.

Or get a piece of 3/16" plate and trace the location of the three bolts after you set your caster. drill the holes put bolts in sandwiched in the adjuster and viola they cannot move.

 

[XJLI]

No, it wouldn't. How would it move? The upper y is fixed on the IRO arm, it doesn't pivot like a common y-link.

are you serious? how is a shackle not going to move?

 

[kastein]

Take a look at the way the IRO driver side arm is built, the upper and lower are welded together with a big gusset between them.

It will still move if you run a rubber bushing in there, because the shackle will pivot a bit and the bushing will squish. If you disposed of the rubber bushing you could use a shackle without it moving significantly but you will be putting a lot of stress on the gusset between the upper and lower portions of the arm. I would not want to do that, especially with their logo conveniently lasered into it in such a way that it significantly weakens the gusset.

 

[srimes]

are you serious? how is a shackle not going to move?

It forms a triangle: lower mount, upper axle mount, upper y mount. Distance between each is fixed, so the angles are naturally defined and nothing can rotate.

I think what's throwing people off is that on a regular y-link the distance between the upper and lower y are not fixed by the arm, they're fixed by the axle mounts. On the IRO arm the upper and lower are fixed by the arm.

 

[Ghost]

FWIW Andy @ Ironman4x4fab builds good quality parts. He has built 2 different sets of arms for me over the years that I have know him and I have know of 3 or 4 other guys running his stuff without any issues. Aparke can attest to his willingness to help out when problems arise.