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What do you think is the best BUT cheap SYE KIT?

old_man said:
There have been a lot of complaints against PORC about poor delivery. You might want to check on Pirate4x4 before ordering to make sure they have remedied that. Historically they have been a good company to work with, but it seems they went through a bumpy time. Hope they have everything sorted out.
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They seem to be fine now. Everything I ordered from them came within 4 days.
 
muddeprived said:
If you go with PORC, keep an eye on the yoke nut. It has a habit of working it's way loose. The yoke seal also is known to leak after a year or so, which is why they sell the seal separately on their site.

Here's another cheap alternative but it's not the BEST way, but its cheap.

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...en=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-X_HNT
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Yeah I've seen that but I'll have to say that's super ghetto and doesn't really eliminate the slip yoke at all. The good thing about the PORC SYE or any real SYE if that if the rear shaft does ever break or go bad for any reason you can just take it out and drive home with the stock setup and that kit you can't because there's no seal you'll lose all your TC fluid and probably destroy the case in the process. The real SYE will give you a longer driveshaft length too which will help with vibration problems.
 
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My Hack n Tap has been great with no problems. I don't know what you are talking about loosing fluid. The TC is sealed(at least on the later model years.)
 
The Nurse said:
My Hack n Tap has been great with no problems. I don't know what you are talking about loosing fluid. The TC is sealed(at least on the later model years.)
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Ok so what year is the OP's jeep then? I did take the time to look before I just started posting what works for me because that would be just silly. :spin1:
 
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ok i have a 1988 Jeep Cherokee Laredo it has a 231AMC T-Case i didn't think that it leaked or lost fluid.

i mean i was really just thinking about getting the porc sye kit then just getting a front drive shaft out of another cherokee. that way IF i do break the driveling on the trail i can alway have a spare, put it on and go right on home.

and idk about h&t's cuz it just seems complicated to do i guess it's hard to explain haha
 
robsjeepxj said:
Yeah I've seen that but I'll have to say that's super ghetto and doesn't really eliminate the slip yoke at all. The good thing about the PORC SYE or any real SYE if that if the rear shaft does ever break or go bad for any reason you can just take it out and drive home with the stock setup and that kit you can't because there's no seal you'll lose all your TC fluid and probably destroy the case in the process. The real SYE will give you a longer driveshaft length too which will help with vibration problems.
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Actually, that is a hack-n-tap, just without the hack part. You still drill the output and put a screw in to hold the yoke in place. Personally, I think it would be fine. It might even be stronger than a hack.
 
McJesse said:
ok i have a 1988 Jeep Cherokee Laredo it has a 231AMC T-Case i didn't think that it leaked or lost fluid.

i mean i was really just thinking about getting the porc sye kit then just getting a front drive shaft out of another cherokee. that way IF i do break the driveling on the trail i can alway have a spare, put it on and go right on home.

and idk about h&t's cuz it just seems complicated to do i guess it's hard to explain haha
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Its not that hard, a little scary but not hard. Plus worse case if you screw it up, sell the h&t and put on a real sye.
 
old_man said:
Actually, that is a hack-n-tap, just without the hack part. You still drill the output and put a screw in to hold the yoke in place. Personally, I think it would be fine. It might even be stronger than a hack.
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Do you have this on your rig? if so how long have you had it and are you satisfied with it?(well if you did have it you probubly are satisfied with it) oh and was it your first time ever putting on an sye kit?
 
oh and also the porc sye has a lifetime warranty as when you have the I.R. h&t kit it doesn't have a lifetime warranty but they did say,We even offer a 30 day warranty on these used driveshafts.

so idk i mnea i'm not saying it's a bad product but i'm more on the porc side i think
 
you know... actaully can anyone possibly measure there driveline so i have an idea of how long my driveline has to be?

if anyone did this i would really appreciate it.

thank you,
Jesse
 
I have the RE hack n tap, and the splines are worn out after 2 years. It has a tiny amount of play on the output yoke.

It vibrates at 50 mph and above. (It is shimmed, and Im on 4.56's.)

Rubicon says its my fault, so I would say go for a real SYE from the beginning.
 
srmitchell said:
I have the RE hack n tap, and the splines are worn out after 2 years. It has a tiny amount of play on the output yoke.

It vibrates at 50 mph and above. (It is shimmed, and Im on 4.56's.)

Rubicon says its my fault, so I would say go for a real SYE from the beginning.
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ok thanks for the info man.

hey do you happen to know how long your driveline is?
 
I don't, its a front shaft out of an auto with a 4.0 liter.

Many people run the HnT without issue, but its no match to a real sye.
 
I would not go by anyone else's measurements. The length you need is for your jeep with your amount of lift. It give detailed instructions on how to measure your on Tom Woods site but you want to measure from the center of the u joint on the Transfercase to the center of the u joint on the rear axle. This measurement will change though after you put in the SYE since you will be removing the longer stock tail housing and installing a shorter output shaft.
 
see i was just going to go with the front driveline i don't think i'm going to get the tom woods drive line

but i think i'm still going to go with the porc sye kit though
 
but what was your front d.s. it out of? because i don't know exactly what one i was told to get one out of an 89-01 xj manuel 4.0L and the length is i think 29.25?? and i think he told me that is because it's the shortest driveline?
 
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