What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

[trippled]

Been staring at the Jeep now trying to figure out some coilover mounts. I bought some hoops but the master cylinder is making them pretty much useless unless they're tipped way out board. Probably use them for the back shocks tho. So I'm thinking a kind of half hoop from the front and kick it out to the fender bars then run a brace around the master back down to the frame. Then add the brace between the two sides. Any thoughts? Photobucket wrecked the internet so mostnof the old threads have dead pics now.

 

[in4aride]

Why not do a boxed mount with a brace instead of a tube mount? Should be easier to manipulate to fit?

 

[freerider15]

Take some pictures of the mock up near there, otherwise it's hard to give suggestions.

 

[trippled]

Take some pictures of the mock up near there, otherwise it's hard to give suggestions.

Yeah haha I know. I'm gonna mess with it this weekend so I'll take some pics.

 

[1-tonxj]

Been staring at the Jeep now trying to figure out some coilover mounts. I bought some hoops but the master cylinder is making them pretty much useless unless they're tipped way out board. Probably use them for the back shocks tho. So I'm thinking a kind of half hoop from the front and kick it out to the fender bars then run a brace around the master back down to the frame. Then add the brace between the two sides. Any thoughts? Photobucket wrecked the internet so mostnof the old threads have dead pics now.

There's a ton of room in there I uses extra long artec towers they did not kick the shock far enough out from the frame to clear the shock body on full flex without going over my knuckle at the axle mount . Some 1-3/4 tube should fit easily I would have no issue fitting a traditional hoop infact it would have cost $30 in tube vs $250 for the pair of artec towers and would have been easier to clear the frame with them . Maybe the hoops you bought don't have a tight enough bend or may be my axle is forward more making the hoop location more friendly ?

I looked at your pic those hoops could be bent tighter and you could also do without the tilt. That tilt is supposed to angle the shock to avoid dead spots on compression ,but when I cycled my shocks I found that the arc of my control arms only yields a flat arm at full compression so that angle back would be pointless ...do you really need to kick them back ?

Pics are from last summer Before de-rusting after I left them sitting for 3 months after putting then in without paint or even wd40 ...my crap sits outside you garage builders have it easy. But you get the idea of fitment.

 

[trippled]

Well this is what I got so far. Shock is straight up with just a little tilt toward the inside. It's a little big but everything fits nicely.

 

[time2getdirty]

Do you have like a 14” radius die? Jesus

 

[freerider15]

I'd run a plate/tube brace across the engine bay instead. Would take up far less room there.

 

[trippled]

I'd run a plate/tube brace across the engine bay instead. Would take up far less room there.

How you mean?

 

[1-tonxj]

Look at the size of this hoop vs your hula hoop size hoop ...make the bend with a smaller radius and you won't use all that space.

That's why David was poking fun by asking if you have a die with 14 CLR.

 

[freerider15]

How you mean?

Can't find a quick example offhand. But, instead of a hoop, a braced bar going across the engine bay.

Similar to what I did:

 

[trippled]

Can't find a quick example offhand. But, instead of a hoop, a braced bar going across the engine bay.

Similar to what I did:

Gotcha. Kinda what I was thinking. Thanks for the pic.

 

[freerider15]

Burning the midnight oil in any attempt to make it to EJS.

- Updating the fuel system with some on/off valves
- Moving the whole cooling system to AN fittings and nylon braided hose (-16AN)
- Re-doing the D60 (Truss, Inner C's, etc.) after !3° of driver's Inner C rotation in Moab last year
- New panhard mount and possibly remaking my frame side lower link mounts (don't really *need* to)
- New muffler: Pypes M-80 that was on there was just too much droning. Moving to a 2" (what will fit) Dynomax Thrush Turbo
- New front ORI mounts
- New front driveshaft (getting rid the CV crap, 2.5" x .25" DOM and 1350 all around).
- New front links (7075 links from Summit Machine)

Other than getting the D60 in and back to roller status, most of the stuff is decently quick and easy...it's just finding time right now...

Working to have the truss on, C's in place and welded, upper link mount in place, and a good idea on the panhard and ORI brackets/mounts by the end of this weekend.

 

[1-tonxj]

This looks like all the stuff I did to my 60 and the general consensus was ...you don't need all that " unless you are jumping it like a retard " ...lol...or you're rig only needs it because it's heavy ..... hmmmmmmm ;-)

 

[techno1154]

Looking at the second picture, I would say you still have plenty of work to do.
That is a shortened axle isn't it? Where did you get the truss? I like!

 

[1-tonxj]

Looking at the second picture, I would say you still have plenty of work to do.
That is a shortened axle isn't it? Where did you get the truss? I like!

His truss is an ARTEC .

 

[freerider15]

Looking at the second picture, I would say you still have plenty of work to do.
That is a shortened axle isn't it? Where did you get the truss? I like!

Nope, still full width D60.

I killed the passenger side inner C trying to rotate it to match the driver's side. That snowballed into a lot of things.

So, new C's going on tomorrow.

Truss is Artec, but IMO isn't sufficient by itself. I've added housing braces front and rear (I'll get pictures tomorrow). I was extremely careful about welding, but the area directly over the housing warped twice now doing not much welding, and it's 3/8" thick. Luckily I'm handy with my 20 ton press. Got it back in place and after some quick media blasting, weldable primer, and wipe down tomorrow it will get burned in over the course of the day. I would have started tonight, but running the compressor with the shop door up isn't worth it this late.

 

[1-tonxj]

Nope, still full width D60.

I killed the passenger side inner C trying to rotate it to match the driver's side. That snowballed into a lot of things.

So, new C's going on tomorrow.

Truss is Artec, but IMO isn't sufficient by itself. I've added housing braces front and rear (I'll get pictures tomorrow). I was extremely careful about welding, but the area directly over the housing warped twice now doing not much welding, and it's 3/8" thick. Luckily I'm handy with my 20 ton press. Got it back in place and after some quick media blasting, weldable primer, and wipe down tomorrow it will get burned in over the course of the day. I would have started tonight, but running the compressor with the shop door up isn't worth it this late.

You warped the truss top or the 60 housing twice ?

 

[trippled]

Why are you considering changing the track bar and link mounts? and I followed your advice on the coilover mounts. Needs some braces but looks way better already.

 

[techno1154]

His truss is an ARTEC .

I spent some time on Artec site looking at trusses. I have a front D44 from a (I think) late 70's Ford that I want to put under my XJ. Tubes are 2 3/4" dia and 1/2" thick. I do not think I need a full truss for 32" tires but I need a one stop idiot proof complete set of brackets for it.
Artec's stuff look good and have great reviews but come with a hefty price.