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Well I did it.

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I'm sorry, but that is the crappiest weld job I think I have ever seen.

I've seen welded rear ends before, but what you did is just garbage.

My cat could weld better than that with his eyes closed.

Just my 2 cents.

PS. It will probably last longer than you think. But when it goes, it's gonna unleash the fury.
 
Cox89XJ said:
BTW Hump A Stump How many rear ends have you welded????
I welded 1 but I was able to get it apart later to install a lockright.
 
My buddy with an 05 TJ did the same to his 35 and runs 33s. He has broken one shaft in a year like it is. BTW his '05 Jeep looks like its 20 years old, he runs it hard.
 
Cox89XJ said:
...........If it brakes I'll replace it with something better. >>>>>>Flame away.
I can't even super glue stuff together without a disaster, let alone weld something. Just let us know how it works out and if/how it breaks so, we may all learn something constructive from it.

Thanks for taking the time to share with us.
 
Man whatever happen with natural selection... You would have been better off saving the money spent on rods, gear lube, silicone for a real rear diff. You can get an nice 8.25 dirt cheap... I'm glad I don't wheel with you, because all I could say when it blows is DeeDeeDee and drive away...
 
Cox89XJ said:
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I welded my turdy five. Reason????? They do not make a Spool for a 35. It's only a trail Jeep. I trailer it to the trail. If it brakes I'll replace it with something better. >>>>>>Flame away.



:puke: Nominated.
 
boogerpostcard.jpg
 
Pretty amusing thread.


I'd ask how many of the people here have actually welded a rear and had it hold up? The weld job that is.


I can tell you beyond a doubt that the weld job is NOT the weak link and how he did it is perfectly acceptable beside the asthetic umm, undesirableness. But yes, I'd not have done it exactly like that...


Besides, a lock-wrong is more likely to pop shafts than that will. I figure it's a mixed bag between the shafts and R&P, so WTH. Inevitably shit will break, but it's not the end of the world. Unless you wheel with a bunch of pansies that don't think that dragging a disabled rig is adding to the wheeling experience.
 
I welded mine and its held up for 5 years. Found some small cracks 2 years ago and welded it again and never have broken anything. And I do wheel hard. It is an 8.25 also. I wouldnt have welded that much but to each his own. Good luck
 
mine is welded front and rear with a choke cable to use the vac posilok for the front. no problems so far and well if it breaks ill just put in one of my three dana 35s that i have, that cost me about 50 for all of them. and so i think he did a great job looks alot better then mine. and mine has no crakcs or anything. and 50 for three times a charm compared to 300 for a locker for a axle that is a POS to start with. GREAT JOB ON YOUR LINCOLN LOCKER!
 
Dude! What were you thinking? Yes. You might have saved $300.00 worth of locker, but you may very well end up with more than #300.00 worth of greef. You just tac the spiders together. One of the reasons is, so that the tacs will break. The tacs are supposed to be the weak point. If your rear end does go...............Caboom! Kablooey!...........It's a long walk back from your hunting trip.

I almost hate to say it, but I think overall...... you were probably better off with the open dif. But it is your ride. Weld away and have fun.
 
Personally I'd rather have a welded non c-clip 35 then a locked c-clip 35, but what ever.

I also wouldn't have welded up the whole window on the diff. When you brake a shaft it is going to be a real pain getting the broken piece out of the carrier. If you just lay several beads around the spiders you can still get a screwdriver into the side gears and push out any broken shaft for a trail repair. Now you will have to use a magnet or something to get a shaft out when it breaks.

Oh, I'd put a truss on that 35 while you are at it. Keep the tubes from flexing as much as possible. It is still a boat anchor but if you are going to run it you might as well do a few cheap mods to help it survive.
 
would have been quicker and easier to just replace the Diff fluid with cement.....
 
Why does everyone think if you weld a D30 or D35 its going to break????

IF He didn't break it before it will be fine. LOTS of people have been welding diffs for meny years and LOTS of people have lockers in D35

So get over it, With any axle they will break at some point, just don't put to large of a tire on a small axle, D35 welded can do just fine up 33" same with a NON-welded D35, and its alot about how you drive, anyone can break a axle with any size of tire if they want to..

Plus I think most peole here just repeat what everyone else is saying even if they have never had a locker or welded axle. so they don't know!
 
drbobxj said:
Why does everyone think if you weld a D30 or D35 its going to break????

IF He didn't break it before it will be fine. LOTS of people have been welding diffs for meny years and LOTS of people have lockers in D35

So get over it, With any axle they will break at some point, just don't put to large of a tire on a small axle, D35 welded can do just fine up 33" same with a NON-welded D35, and its alot about how you drive, anyone can break a axle with any size of tire if they want to..

Plus I think most peole here just repeat what everyone else is saying even if they have never had a locker or welded axle. so they don't know!
I broke my welded (at first) and locked (later) D30 more times then I broke my locked D35. Most of the shafts were the smaller u-joint shafts, but some had the larger u-joints. They were all u-pulls from junkyard rigs thought so it was cheap.

I think that if he is going from an open rear to a welded rear the difference in traction will be so great he'll get into areas previously unatainable, and by pushing the rig will evenually break shafts. It happens, it's the natural order of things with a jeep.

I know a guy who has gone through 2 or 3 sets of spiders in his D35, He finally went to an 8.8 cuz he got tired of replacing them. So even it it is open the D35 isn't a strong axle by any means.

At least with the non c-clip axle you can get a little ways down the trail to fix a broken shaft without the tire comeing off. And replacement shafts are cheap and easy to get from wrecking yards.

I doubt that many people who are freaking out about the welded diff have even broke an axle shaft. The D35 has a rep for being a piece of junk (witch it is) but I don't think all the people who say it, have had personal expierience with it. Like you say, they are just repeating the same stuff everyone else is saying.
 
maybe I should weld my 35... NOT!
Sorry but around here you can find an almost pulled 8.25 for 1Hunny at the u pull and if you go through the trouble why not just 8.8 that bitch?

A hundred bucks for a cheap strong(er) axle is money well spent in my opinion.
Atleast he gave it a try I guess
 
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