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valving for FOA's

C

CAJJ93XJ

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Roseville, CA
just took my jeep out for the first time and jesus does it ride like garbage. my autozone shocks are fully clapped out so I need a replacements on all 4 corners. I just need a set that will last me the summer or maybe a year so I was thinking FOA might be a good call for the price. I don't know a lot about shocks but I do know that if I want to wail on them for more than an hour at a time I should probably get 2.5's yeah?

jeep is currently on 1 tons, deaver 5.5" front coils, chevy 56" rear leafs with about 45* shackle angle

I am looking for trail comfort. I want to move quickly and comfortably through rough rocky roads but also play a little go-fast. not planning on jumping it. what valving do you guys think? I'm open to other reasonable "budget" suggestions too. these only need to last until I can afford some coilovers

compression? rebound? resivoirs?
http://f-o-a.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=25_26&products_id=2
 
DO NOT DO FOA!

Read.
And listen to those that have tried to save a buck.

I would do white cans over FOA's.
My own experience was just like others posted, but I hoped I would not experience.

Ordered 12" and 16" bypasses Dec 12th 2013. Was over charged and asked for a refund of 100$ Dec 13th.

Refund didnt happen even after about 10 emails and 10 calls till late april.

Shocks didnt ship out till mid april. Received shocks. 2 leaked Very bad! Without even charging them.

The other 2 froze while charging them. They came compressed. I setup for 175psi (on nit reg.) Opened valve on reg, and shock extended till what appeared the wiper / valve stack got to the first tube and they Both froze. After that point they would never move again. I tried with a buddy to turn the shaft even, then found they dont even use locktite on the lower mount/hiem to shaft threads, and the lower mount started un-treading from shaft, before the shaft would turn. Tried no psi, tried 275psi, nothing helped both were screwed.

So all 4 shocks went back defective and I got a refund.

Not worth it at all.

Then a buddy had a issue with one of his front 8" CO's. When we went to The Mint, a few months back he asked them if we could stop in and have them fix it real fast. Said sure stop on in.

They are a single industrial bay in a strip ind. building. You know, one big bay door, and a interior office space about 100ft x 200ft. Thats their entire facility. With 3 non english speaking looking guys putting parts in milk crates (their stocking system was stacked up milk crates), and assembling. With one guy (JD I think?) running the show. Thats it. Thats foa...

Good luck if you decide on FOA, but dont forget we told you so....

Look in to Bilstein, Fox, Even procomp, before FOA...

OH and look into swayaway even... Not too bad either compared...
 
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damnit. yeah I knew they were bad but I've been reading about improvements lately.

ok so FOA is out. my budget is a pretty firm $600 for this summer. so lets bring it back to the idea of using stock mounting locations on the body (instead of the shock hoops I planned on) and I'll google up some of the brands you mentioned on my break. my instinct is to try to gather up some bilsteins (slightly better than 5100's)

so I'll pretend to be a racecar next year. this summer I just want some comfort on the trail. this thing should ride like a caddy with how flat my control arms are and the progressives right? it has to be the shocks. It's way too stiff I was bouncing off of small rocks on the trail and the whole body was cycling instead of the suspension
 
I have some RRD 16" ext resi shocks. Brand new. They have a 1" shaft and what I used for all my races up till my next, where I will be on bypasses now. Make ya a good deal.

Look in to 7100's if you go Bilstein.
 
if you cant afford to run nice shocks this season, just pick up whatever set you can secondhand for cheap. hell, at 35 bucks a corner white bodies will work fine and then you can sell the whole set when youre done for a few bucks.
 
Josh (Xjenson) noticed his 5125s got hot and faded when riding them hard for extended periods whereas his edelbrock monotube res. shocks (no longer made) where cool and didnt fade. But for the short run they are probably way better than what you have and come in under your budget, so its a big step in the right direction.
 
XJLI said:
Do it up.
Click to expand...

I like your opinions but Jon has me worried..

blondejoncherokee said:
Josh (Xjenson) noticed his 5125s got hot and faded when riding them hard for extended periods whereas his edelbrock monotube res. shocks (no longer made) where cool and didnt fade. But for the short run they are probably way better than what you have and come in under your budget, so its a big step in the right direction.
Click to expand...

damn. I do plan on ripping through fordyce/rubicon for a few hours at a time. hmm. I'll keep thinking. any other suggestions? these will run me about $400 so lets keep the budget there for all 4 corners. anyone sees some used shocks for sale please let me know
 
Anything less than a 7100/2.0 will fade quickly when running trails at speeds more than a crawl. You have to either get a bigger budget and buy shocks once, or, deal with a lesser shock for now.
 
I'm running 12inch white rockets. Twin tube 9000 series. They were the stiffest I could get in the budget. 200$ shipped. They are available in any mounting config you want man. I was deffinately floating down those dirt roads last weekend man. You saw me.
Not saying they are great shocks but they will get you by till you go COs.
Take some measurements and look at there charts for your application. My guess is you will need probably 12s up front and 10s out back. I have a hoop in back so my rears are way to soft but it takes landings quite well.
 
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