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U joint, U bolt install (factory yoke)


If you web wheel or think the mall is HARD core. This is not for you, because you will never brake anything

You should have said, "with the hardcore mod's I do, I'm ready for the mall."

You are not the first to attempt drilling out the stock yokes. Google something!
 
You should have said, "with the hardcore mod's I do, I'm ready for the mall."

You are not the first to attempt drilling out the stock yokes. Google something!

Sorry I don't go to the mall, because I hate people.

Did I miss something? Where did I say that I am the first one to do this...

All I am doing is showing other Cherokee owners that you don't have to spend 100+ dollars to do this. I did not see a good wright up on here.
 
No idea what you're talking about.

.....Did you miss my last sentence?

From the looks of the picture it doesn't seem that you can or should be any further out on the u-joint.

I don't know whether its true or not, that's what I'm asking. I don't design u-joints. Let me clarify: is there any dimensional differences between yokes that use straps and yokes that use u-bolts in regards to where they put pressure on the cap?

If you web wheel or think the mall is HARD core. This is not for you, because you will never brake anything

I have to b/c of the font & size. b-r-e-a-k, not brake.

I think this is great, just so long as its doesn't cause other issues. I've just been trying to find some credible responses to my aforementioned questions. Let's hash those out real quick.
 
Here is the 8.25 drilled

0acbed88.jpg


541bb227.jpg
 
The 8.25" yoke can't use a u-bolt because the nut won't fut flush on the backside of the yoke unless it is machined.

A little late but I did this on 2 of my 8.25s (currently in my DD) with no issues (was sick of getting stranded when a rear ujoint let go). I was a boob though and drill out my dana 30 for the same size ubolt I used in the back (ones in the HELP section for some fords) and didn't check to see if there was enough room to tighten the nut. I could not tighten the nuts due to clearance and had to put on another stock dana 30 pinion yoke. If the OP is saying his part # works on a dana 30 then I shall be doing this for the front too. Never had one fail.
 
Here is the 8.25 drilled

0acbed88.jpg


541bb227.jpg

Doesn't look like its uneven to me. I want to do something about the straps before my next ride and I've just read too much misinformation to do it without concern of other issues. I think I'll drill my 8.25 and get the u-bolt yoke for my 30; at least before my next ride.
 
realistically u have about 80 percent of the end cap secured with no gap. i dont understand what would make a u joint fail with this setup. the yoke itself is designed to cup the end cap of the u joint. the strap is just to hold it in place. after seeing how pathetic the straps and bolt that hold the driveshaft in place are i will definitely be doing this soon on my d30. to the op good job.
 
I might do this for my D30 one of the screws got cross-threaded and doesn't hold very well

Ok, with the Dana 30. It's tight.

There is little room. On my Dana 30 yoke it's fine. But on the other Dana 30 it does not sit flat.

By tight I mean you have to use the open end of the wrench (the other yokes you can use the boxed.

On the 30 that it does not work well. It's is a little uneven. Because the casting from the yoke, on the way down to the bolt is a little in the way. That makes the lock washer hang up or if you just use the nut it gets Hung up.

So for me it works on one Dana 30 and not the other

For the yoke that dose not fit well, i will be buying a new yoke
 
Ok, with the Dana 30. It's tight.

There is little room. On my Dana 30 yoke it's fine. But on the other Dana 30 it does not sit flat.

By tight I mean you have to use the open end of the wrench (the other yokes you can use the boxed.

On the 30 that it does not work well. It's is a little uneven. Because the casting from the yoke, on the way down to the bolt is a little in the way. That makes the lock washer hang up or if you just use the nut it gets Hung up.

So for me it works on one Dana 30 and not the other

For the yoke that dose not fit well, i will be buying a new yoke
Im confused!
 
Some good questions about the physical differences between the yokes,considering I can buy a u-bolt style D30/44 yoke for 35$ and this pic(preceeded by "have a friend help you so you can drill straight"),I'd just buy one!
9445f729.jpg
 
Im confused!

I worked on one Dana 30, but not the other.


Some good questions about the physical differences between the yokes,considering I can buy a u-bolt style D30/44 yoke for 35$ and this pic(preceeded by "have a friend help you so you can drill straight"),I'd just buy

All you need a friend for, is to hold the yoke so it won't spin.

35bucks yeah! But the you have to buy 2 because you don't want one with straps and one with u bolts. So there's 70 bucks. Then do you feel good about messing with the preload on your gears? I have a good amount of money in my diff. I would hate to kill my gears and have to do it all over.

So "doing it your self" just turned in to $500+ fix

Or you can Pay some one to do it. Theres 100 bucks if your lucky.
 
I worked on one Dana 30, but not the other.




All you need a friend for, is to hold the yoke so it won't spin.

35bucks yeah! But the you have to buy 2 because you don't want one with straps and one with u bolts. So there's 70 bucks. Then do you feel good about messing with the preload on your gears? I have a good amount of money in my diff. I would hate to kill my gears and have to do it all over.

So "doing it your self" just turned in to $500+ fix

Or you can Pay some one to do it. Theres 100 bucks if your lucky.

Unless your doing a LP D30,there is nothing to do but replace the yoke(and a new seal would be a good idea).No shimming/adjustments required.
 
35bucks yeah! But the you have to buy 2 because you don't want one with straps and one with u bolts. So there's 70 bucks. Then do you feel good about messing with the preload on your gears? I have a good amount of money in my diff. I would hate to kill my gears and have to do it all over.

So "doing it your self" just turned in to $500+ fix

Or you can Pay some one to do it. Theres 100 bucks if your lucky.

replacing the yoke isnt that big of a deal at all. i just gave the same preload on the pinion by feeling its turning resistance by hand when i did mine. its been fine since march. so probably 10k+ miles on it and its still quiet. in some cases people ruin yokes so it makes sense to buy a new one meant for u-bolts, thus not costing anything extra.
 
Some good questions about the physical differences between the yokes,considering I can buy a u-bolt style D30/44 yoke for 35$ and this pic(preceeded by "have a friend help you so you can drill straight"),I'd just buy one!
9445f729.jpg
for the record, In this pic that is my hand and he's holding the drill while taking the pic. This axle is my old D44a that i swapped out when i re-geared.. this was our "test axle" for a few different things.. It is gutted.. no shafts, carrier..nadda. The drill would spin the yoke on this axle easily.

After this was done, I took the U-bolts out, slid under my rig, Removed the rear driveshaft, And i started drilling holes alone at 12:30am.. It took a whopping 5 bucks, and 5 minutes of drilling..

I on the other hand, Bought a front yoke for my HP30 because they are so readily available.
 
after wheeling with a fellow jeeper, his U joint strap bolts broke off and we could not install a spare drive line on the trail.

the U joint U bolt install in to the factory yoke.

im a cheap person (when i can be)
others i have talked to, are in to this 100 bucks (with new yokes)

i am in to this for 15 bucks!

Parts list:
spicer U bolt kit 2-94-58x ( you can NOT use the one for a dana 30)
vermont american drill bit 5/8" 12670


47574c21.jpg

You can NOT go in to a parts store and say "give me U bolts for a dana 30" they will be the wrong size. you need this part #. it maches up with the factory holes on the yoke.

Since I am considering doing this to both the D30 and C8.25; with all the bantering back and forth... I am not clear whether this kit will fit the C8.25 too....
Does this kit also fit the C8.25??
 
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