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Trying to remove the cross shaft in my 8.25 to pull a shaft but it hits the ring gear

the OP already said it wont come out either side. id bet it is as mcdavid123 said that you have to line the middle flat spot up to one shaft at a time and drop the c clips out
Yeah... a couple people seem to be missing the finer points of this suggestion.
 
The carrier and ring gear have to be installed in the pumpkin BEFORE installing the axle shafts, c-clips, and cross shaft. There is NO way you can install the cross shaft before the ring gear.

Exactly. That's what I've been saying. Take apart the axle then take out the carrier and unbolt the ring gear. Then take out the shaft.
 
There is no need to have a big debate on this. It is retardedly easy to just grind down the ring gear tooth with a die grinder. Why would you even bother doing anything else?

I dont think there is any other way and even if you do manage to wriggle it out somehow, how do you intend to re-install it?

Just grind and be careful, it isn't the end of the world even if you miss and knick something by accident. All these other options either don't work or are just stupid.
 
Exactly. That's what I've been saying. Take apart the axle then take out the carrier and unbolt the ring gear. Then take out the shaft.


Try taking the c clips off (which allow you to remove the shafts, and the shafts must be removed BEFORE the carrier) before the pinion shaft has been removed, then get back to me after you learned that it wont work.
 
Exactly. That's what I've been saying. Take apart the axle then take out the carrier and unbolt the ring gear. Then take out the shaft.

That's *THE* problem. He can't get the axleshafts out. As long as the axleshafts are still in place, the ring & carrier aren't going anywhere.

There is no need to have a big debate on this. It is retardedly easy to just grind down the ring gear tooth with a die grinder. Why would you even bother doing anything else?

Do you always just reach for a grinder? That differential had to be assembled somehow. I see no reason to start hacking at teeth. I'd bother doing something else because that's how it was assembled in the first place.
 
Do you always just reach for a grinder? That differential had to be assembled somehow. I see no reason to start hacking at teeth. I'd bother doing something else because that's how it was assembled in the first place.

Clearancing a tooth is a perfectly accepted method to make installation easier. It isn't "just reaching for a grinder", reputable axle shops would do the same thing.

I did it to my 8.25 gears before I installed them even and 10,000 miles later my gears are fine.
 
Exactly. That's what I've been saying. Take apart the axle then take out the carrier and unbolt the ring gear. Then take out the shaft.

On the 8.25 axle you cant take the axle shafts out unless the cross pin comes out. The crosspin prevents the shafts from moving in, releasing the C-clips. It looks like the pin has the flat spot and was installed in the carrier before the ring gear went on (hence not needing the ground down gear).

He might as well grind the ring gear so that the pin can slide out while he's at it but the only time that would benefit the OP is if the spiders on the crosspin go bad. Would assume the clutch packs are accessible once the side spiders are removed. So right back to why bother grinding? The cross pin just needs to be spun.
 
Clearancing a tooth is a perfectly accepted method to make installation easier. It isn't "just reaching for a grinder", reputable axle shops would do the same thing.

I did it to my 8.25 gears before I installed them even and 10,000 miles later my gears are fine.
If you're installing gears, sure (and mine were done the same way, and way more than 10k miles ago.) He's not. He's trying to disassemble something that went together without a grinder. Starting to grind things because you don't know how to take them apart will eventually get you in trouble.
 
If you're installing gears, sure (and mine were done the same way, and way more than 10k miles ago.) He's not. He's trying to disassemble something that went together without a grinder. Starting to grind things because you don't know how to take them apart will eventually get you in trouble.


Generally I would be inclined to agree, don't just go ahead and grind, except gears 4.56 and deeper on the 8.25 will trap the pinion shaft in there unless clearanced or if a notched pinion shaft is used.

Whatever strange method the shop that installed them used is irrelevant, he probably isnt going to get them out without clearancing. Like I said normally you shouldn't just go ahead and grind, but that is something that should have been done during installation and wasn't. It is a perfectly accepted procedure, it's not like I'm saying to cut the ring gear in half and then pull it off. The area removed usually wont even be an area that makes contact with the pinion if the gears were installed properly.

The only other option at all would be is if the pinion shaft had a slot to make it past the gear, but it is pretty clear from the picture that it doesnt.


Also though, to the OP, if you are just doing this to find out your axle spline count you might be able to slip a dial caliper in past the outside of the bearing caps, way to the left or right of the pumpkin and measure the diameter of the shaft. I'm pretty sure you can see that shaft poking through there. 27 and 29 spline shafts have different diameters which you can just check online.
 
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On the 8.25 axle you cant take the axle shafts out unless the cross pin comes out. The crosspin prevents the shafts from moving in, releasing the C-clips. It looks like the pin has the flat spot and was installed in the carrier before the ring gear went on (hence not needing the ground down gear).

He might as well grind the ring gear so that the pin can slide out while he's at it but the only time that would benefit the OP is if the spiders on the crosspin go bad. Would assume the clutch packs are accessible once the side spiders are removed. So right back to why bother grinding? The cross pin just needs to be spun.

For the visual learner types, I have hacked up a quick MS paint illustration of what this means...

Here's the axle as it's normally set up. Imagine the big solid black square halfway down the cross shaft in this picture is the flatted spot on the cross shaft you see in this post from 90Pioneer's other thread.
fig27normal.jpg


Now imagine that you have turned the cross shaft in its hole 90 degrees, so the flat spot is facing the end of one of the axle shafts:
fig27shaftremoval.jpg


Now you can push the left axle shaft in, slide the c clip out, remove the axle shaft, rotate the cross shaft 180 degrees in its hole so the flat spot faces the right axle shaft end, and repeat.

Hopefully this is a little clearer... my graphics skills suck and my pictures are only worth about 500 words, so I included two :laugh2:

The diff and shafts went together somehow without an inverse grinder being involved, so it will clearly come apart without a normal one being involved. It's just a matter of puzzling over it till you figure it out... consider it like that stupid thing with the horseshoes and chain tangled around a strange piece of metal that you have to untangle without getting pissed off and reaching for the boltcutters.
 
Thank you Kastein. I hope that helps people get our drift.
 
Exactly. That's what I've been saying. Take apart the axle then take out the carrier and unbolt the ring gear. Then take out the shaft.

No, I was disputing what you were saying. As iant333 and Jeff said, you have to take the cross shaft out FIRST. Then you push the axle shafts inward to remove the c-clips. Then you pull the axle shafts out. Then you can remove the carrier/ring gear assembly. And only then could you remove the ring gear. You can't change the order of the procedure.

I think kastein and mcdavid may be onto something. Have someone push inward on one of the axle shafts as you rotate the cross shaft. If there is a flat spot, the axle shaft will move in when it contacts it.
 
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What i am thinking they did to install that, is slip the ring gear onto the carrier but not bolt it down. that way you can install the shafts, c clips and the cross pin, while the ring gear can basically pivot around to give you the room you need to get it all together. You pivot it toward the passenger side to install the shaft, and then once thats done, you bolt it down. With extensions you can get a torque wrench or a impact gun on there. as long as the drive shaft wasnt hooked up, and the wheels were off the ground, it would rotate freely and you could get to each bolt and torque it.

Make sense?
 
If he drops the c-clip and takes the axleshaft out he won't *need* to remove the crosspin anymore ;) he's counting splines on the axle shaft, pull the shaft all the way out, count splines, put it back in.

Did everyone have 2 scoops of paint chips cereal today for breakfast?
 
What i am thinking they did to install that, is slip the ring gear onto the carrier but not bolt it down. that way you can install the shafts, c clips and the cross pin, while the ring gear can basically pivot around to give you the room you need to get it all together. You pivot it toward the passenger side to install the shaft, and then once thats done, you bolt it down. With extensions you can get a torque wrench or a impact gun on there. as long as the drive shaft wasnt hooked up, and the wheels were off the ground, it would rotate freely and you could get to each bolt and torque it.

Make sense?

Occam's razor :rolleyes:
 
If he drops the c-clip and takes the axleshaft out he won't *need* to remove the crosspin anymore ;) he's counting splines on the axle shaft, pull the shaft all the way out, count splines, put it back in.

Did everyone have 2 scoops of paint chips cereal today for breakfast?

What Mike?!?! You have to remove the cross shaft in order to drop the c-clips. ;) :D
 
not on mine i didnt, there is a divot in the center of the pin to push the axle shaft inwards and remove the clip, all I had to do is take the retaining bolt out and spin the cross shaft so the divot is facing the axleshaft you want to remove.
 
his has the same divot (this pic is from his other thread)

axle2.jpg


you can clearly see it.

OK Mike, got it. I didn't know the guy had two threads going. :eeks1: That's weird. My 8.25 didn't have that. It was round all the way around.
 
OK guys I'm in the garage working on it now.

I'm not going to grind on anything.

How in the hell can I spin this shaft?

I knocked it out exposing the hole where the retaining bolt goes through. I stuck a 3/16th punch through the hole and tried to turn it. Broke my punch. Short of clamping on vise grips I dont see another way to turn it. But if I vise grip it wont that scar it up?
 
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