If you don't have the proper tool to swap the joints, a bench vise is preferred over a C-clamp. It won't move about as much, and you can bring more force to bear.
Once the old joint is out, I'll go over the inside of the ears (where the cap is pressed on) with a wire brush or crocus cloth to clean it up, and then rinse with carburettor cleaner (get the grit out.) Before you reassemble, paint liberally with never-seez - it makes the new joint go in easier, and come out easier later. Use the abrasive dry - it's more effective that way. You can also use Scotch-Brite, but it's a bit more work.
Also, you'll have to remove at least two caps to get the joint in place - once you pull the cap off, make sure all of the needle bearings are in place (there should be no gaps whatever!) and then "stick" them in place using chassis grease- the same stuff you'll be lubing your joints with afterwards. Believe me, it's a help...
The most difficult joints to service (to me) are in the double Cardan at the transfer case end of the front driveshaft - the other five are simple, and take about five minutes each (once the shaft is on the bench.)
Have replacement straps for the axle yokes to hand. I do find it easier to use socket head capscrews tho - 1/4"-28x1" will be the size you'll want. Always use new screws, and you should use new straps as well (you can get away with using old straps, but always use new screws! They're cheap enough anyhow...)
The HF tool will work for U-joints, but I'd originally gotten one to do ball joints. In less time than I wasted bending the HF tool, I managed to change all four ball joints with an OTC. You do get what you pay for - it will work fine for small stuff, but not for anything big (it should also serve for changing lug studs, since they're pressed in on a splined section with only a few hundred pounds of force. Ball joints are close to a ton.)