Tranny cooler

[XJJPR]

It has nothing to do with defensive, I could careless if he likes what I did or not. I do have a problem making a blanket comment as he has done with out explanation. It makes for bad info when it is done like that.

If rubber lines are bad explain it, don't knock it and run.

mark

 

[8Mud]

Rubber lines. I´ve used Aero Quip 300 PSI, oil line. After about five years, they were so hard, that bending them caused cracks (won´t buy that again). I bought the name, don´t really know what quality the lines are, until after they have been in there awhile. What type lines did you use?
Oil lines usually require extra hangers so they don´t flop around. They can be cut, but usually flatten and spring right back.
Metal lines flaten, kink and cut. Usually look a little neater, in long runs. :wave:

 

[sidriptide]

thats a sweet set-up mark but it wouldnt work for me.. to much mud and $hit to mess it up out here in new england.. not sure how much of that you get into out west.. i have thought about mounting it on the underside of the hood below the hood vents.. a rough idea i havent put to paper yet though.. anywhere besides the undercarriage and the front end... need to research air-flow and operating temps too..
mike

 

[8Mud]

A trick that would probably work and the more I think about the better it sounds. Would be to run a hard line in a loop around the frame, tucked up high. Sand the frame to bare metal every 6 inches or so and solder one inch of the hard line to the frame, until you have 10-15 spots soldered on a 6-9 foot run. You´d have a giant heat sink and the hard line would radiate heat, if I wasn´t so lazy, I´d look up the charts and roughly figure how much heat you can get rid of per foot. 3/8" soft copper would get the job done. Rust preventative for the solder joints. Hopefully solder temps. would not damage the coating inside of the frame.
A large surface area and low air flow, works as well as a small area and high air flow, for getting rid of heat.