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tracbar bracket?

jakec said:
Another vote for removing it. It doesn't look necessary, and it also looks like a nasty catch point. I'm pretty sure that's not a stock trackbar. Not sure what it is, but it's not stock.

weve known that since post 1, thanks
 
lol, awesome. So it's coming off. I don't think I'm capable of centering my axle while it's on the ground and I don't have a way to take the eight off of it yet (no tall jacstands).
 
bcsavage said:
lol, awesome. So it's coming off. I don't think I'm capable of centering my axle while it's on the ground and I don't have a way to take the eight off of it yet (no tall jacstands).

centering it while its on the ground is the only easy way to do it

take the bracket off, drill your hole, reinstall the axle part of the trackbar, put the key in the ignition, turn it to unlock the steering wheel but dont start it, turn the steering wheel and the body will move and the axle will stay in place. When you get it close turn the key off and lock the steering wheel into that spot and hook up the frame part of the trackbar. POC
 
bcsavage said:
So I do want the bracket? Something about the trackbar should run parallel to the drag-link? If that's the case, I'd want to keep the bracket because as you can see they're almost dead on right now whereas if I remove the bracket it's going to put the trackbar at a more horizontal angle.
No,you do not want the bracket!Thats some of the worst angles Ive seen in awhile.Angles are measured from the centerline of the pivot points,the shape of the links means nothing.BTW:I think only PC and RC sell those brackets(only a couple of the worst companies out there).
DSCF0015.jpg
 
well I got it on, still something sloppy but the bumpsteer is almost gone. Ran into another BIG issue though. Someone please explain 4x4 to me ;)

regarding the front axle/diff/driveshaft. Shouldn't the drive shaft spin all the time while the vehicle is in motion because the gears in the diff will always be transfering movement to the driveshaft? Like no matter what I'm in (2hi, 4hi, 4lo) I should not be able to rotate the front DS without moving the jeep right?
 
That will depend on the Year/Axle(disco or not)/Transfer case types.
 
The answer is right there in the picture of your axle. It has a vacuum disconnect, which means while in 2wd it disengages the passenger-side axle shaft, so as the driver-side axle turns the gears in the diff, the open diff just turns the disconnected passenger-side shaft rather than the driveshaft.
 
From your pics, you have a disconnect style front axle. There is a shift collar on the passenger side axle shaft that disconnects the shaft in the middle during 2WD operation. When in 4WD, vacuum pressure shifts the collar over, locking both halves of the axle shaft together. So, when you have 4WD engaged and the engine running, after moving the jeep just a bit to allow the shift collar to do its thing, you should not be able to spin the drive line with the Jeep stationary.

In all other situations, the front drive line should spin freely on your XJ.

Jared:patriot:
 
ok, but that being said I just went out after doing the t-bar and got stuck in the most patheic of ditches... even in 4 low. Now is there something I'm missing about engaging 4wd here? It's a 1990 XJ Sport. Any other infor I can get for you guys lemme know cuz right now I'm completely pissed.
 
ok, just went and looked and there are three vacuum lines. two in a double plug and one in a single. How do I go about figuring out what my problem is with 4wd not engaging?

ok, so the single plug (grren) doesn't have any vacuum in 4wd. Didn't check it in 2wd (could it be to return the collar to 2wd mode? but in 4wd the double plug does have vacuum. but because the jeep is loud when running I can't hear any leaks nor can I tell if it's the actuator that might not be doing it's job. This sucks!
 
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tomorrow I go to pick n pull and grab a few vac actuators to keep me going while I decide what I'm doing (prolly going cable when I can afford it).
 
Why not just grab a one-piece passenger side axle shaft to replace that vac-disco 2-piece shaft like they did in later years of the xj? I don't know the exact year they went to one-piece shafts, but for sure '93 and later, probably a few years before that too. And if you get a one-piece shaft out of a '97 or later xj, it will use the 297x or 760x Spicer u-joint which is stronger than the 260x u-joint currently in your axles anyways. There are some companies that sell plates to cover up where the vacuum disconnect used to be after replacing it with a one-piece shaft also.
 
lol, the swaybar disco bolt is now in but I drove it home 400k's the way it was in that pic. Scary.

I've been reading about switching to a non-disconnected axle. Apparently there is an even amount of supporters vs. non-supporters of doing this. I grabbed two vac. shift motors from the junker for $10 ea. I'll start with that. Thanks for all the help though guys, it's really making me feel better knowing I can get info here cuz I woulda pulled out all my hair yesterday if it weren't for NAXJA ;)
 
yup, turns out the fork inside that moves the collar was too sloppy on the shaft to do it's job. Fixed now :D Just got back from some mild-muddin'. Good times were had by all? I think so!
 
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