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Thermostat and radiator

gthom79

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Oak Harbor WA
I have an 88 XJ with the 4.0 and about 245,000 miles on it. I went to pull the thermostat housing off and broke the top bottle, suggestions on how to get the sheared bolt out. The radiator has a small leak some where around the bottom I can see where its wet and it obviously anti-freeze. I'm replacing all the hoses since I'm doing the thermostat so I was thinking about just getting a new radiator as well, especially since when I drained it the fluid went from green to brown. I was wanting suggestions on radiators and if I should keep the closed system or get an open system.
 
You have three issues to explore.., so.., I'll put in my two cents worth.
1a) Not sure what you mean by; 'bottle'. My assumption is you broke part of the thermostat housing, and sheared a bolt. Bolt sheared off even with block?
1b) Not sure what you mean by; 'bottle'. My other assumption is you broke the overflow bottle.
2) Less overall modification work by just keeping the closed-system working properly. (I prefer the easier to maintain open-system, as that's mostly what I've used since 1964, but am unwilling to make the mod.). Instructions on how to fill closed-system is something you already know?
3) Debates on the radiators is an on-going issue. Some good ones have gone bad, and visa-versa. Me, I got a deal on all aluminum Champion, and have about 30k on it now. Some have had bad luck with them. The radiators with plastic side tanks have given some nasty blow-outs. Seems to be a crap-shoot these days of out-sourced manufacturing. You might get by by having yours fixed at a radiator shop. If yours is simply leaking from a pin-hole in an easy to get to location along one tube.., you can just pinch it off flat, half inch above, and below, with a pair of needle-nosed pliers.

If you want a radiator with more, or less tubes/rows; that will be something for you to research; depending on your climate, your driving demands, i.e., hot rock crawling, free way sub zero driving, trailer pulling, etc.

Please convey more detailed information for the experts around here to give you more exact replies.
 
Modine radiator has always been a good brand. Csf Been a hit or miss with me.

Switching to open ? I did and don't regret it, but you didn't say yours was a problem before so stay with it. I did mine when my last radiator side tank started leaking about 150k miles ago.
 
you may have to drill and tap to get the broken bolt out. Before you replace your radiator is it leaking? if it does not leak and cools the vehicle flush it and go with it. You could also take the rad off of it and carry it to a rad shop and have them boil it out for you
 
"I don't mean to hijack the thread, but what is an "open system" cooling system?"

I'll let others give you the expert reply, such as any advantages, or not.., but simply an 'open system' is recognizable where there is a radiator cap on the radiator, unlike some of the earlier XJ'x with the 'closed system' which does not. RENIX XJ's for example. have a screw on cap on the overflow bottle in which to deliver the fluid needed. The traditional former cap on radiator method is easier to deal with, i.e., to 'burp' system after a complete drain, and resupply of anti-freeze fluid(s). Whereas the latter closed system requires a bit more finesse, i.e., removal of the temperature sending unit on the back of the block, (with the rear of the vehicle jacked slightly uphill in order for the back of the block to be higher than the front of the block), running the engine, pouring fluid in the so-called overflow bottle, and enduring a whole lot of over-spray, lol. There are some helpful shortcuts that can be used in conjunction with the pour into the bottle, i.e., a PRESTONE "T" spliced into the top hose to the heater, in which one can also wiggle that portion of hose, or otherwise help to remove air, pour fluid into said connected fitting, to help towards a more complete fluid fill.

One disadvantage of the closed system is the fact that the bottle, and cap, have a half life that is yesterday, today, or tomorrow. Meaning they are problematic in that the bottle becomes opaque, and brittle, and the cap is best replaced with a Volvo cap, (forgot the year). New non-OEM replacement bottles seem to have a massive quality control issue since they are made by slave labor under the stuper-vision of their red army masters.
 
Any body know where is can buy the bolts for the thermostat housing? I sheered the top bolt off and know I'm having a hard time finding a replacement one.
 
Ace has the best selection of bolts in my area.

I am not sure of the thread pitch, but I believe it is SAE (not metric).
 
NAPA (automotive parts store).
1370 Southwest Barlow Street, Oak Harbor, WA 98277
(360) 675-5946

They will have a bolt selection
 
I have had good luck with heating the bolt then "quenching" it with a candle or some type of wax. Just heat it up pretty good then mash a candle onto the threads. It'll come out...
 
When replacing the radiator hoses, switching to a t-bolt style clamp instead of the stock/common worm drive style, will help those new hoses to last much longer...

Dunno about you guys, but im tired of replacing hoses that get eaten up by the worm drive screw.
 
On the leaking radiator....which side ?

On my 96, every year when it got cold, it would look like it was leaking on the drivers side. I even took it out once to have it checked. No leaks.

Turned out, the gasket on the drain fitting (can't call it what it really is or it gets "****") was old & all I did was tighten it a little more each year for 3-4 yrs, then I just sealed it up with some RTV (couldn't find the correct replacement part) and no more issues so far.
 
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