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The Jeep in my door yard

Is the air nozzle just pointed in through the floor board?
 
Is the air nozzle just pointed in through the floor board?


Yes, it's inside the jeep at the bottom of the A-piller where the floor gets wider. It should be out of the way. There is also a recessed drain at the back on the inboard side. I should have it tacked in tomorrow and Ill get better photos.
 
Update as promised. when I was cutting the bottom of the doors I noticed a ****up. The electric window regulators use a screw type mechanism with a coiled wire to drive the window up and down. I chopped part of it off. Before clipping the doors, remove the inner panel and relocate the tube from the bottom on the door well. the stub can be seen here. Ill replace and tuck this thing later.



Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr




my method was to locate the lower surface of the inner door panel and cut the door just below that level. I marked what I figured was a good height and clamped my cut guide 3/8" below that point.





Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr



I modded that little c-clamp to fit the gap between the doors. I used Irwin (Vice-grip) "C" clamps to hold the ends. I use that guide to run my 5" grinder down the edge to cut the door. I changed wheels and cut to be able to cut as deep as I could.


This is inside the front fender down at the bottom. I transferred the line all the way around the A pillar at the same level. It's my cut line. I hit as much of this as I can reach with the 5" cutoff grinder.



Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr



Since my floors are already out I was comfortable hacking all this crap away from the line down. Remember the "cut line" is still 3/8" below the "hard" line on the door so there is a margin to work with.



The next thing is the bottom of the doors. The hard line on the doors is the fold line so everything between the cut line and the hard line needs to be removed from everything but the skin. This took a 2" cut off tool as well as the plaz cutter and 5" grinder. In this image, the cut to the left is a horizontal cut on the inner door panel through only the inner layer, the cut to the right is with the wheel vertical and through the bottom of the inner door well. Easier the second time.

Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

I used the plaz to slice between these two lines to drop the bottom of the door. May be a better view. This is the bottom of the door.
Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr


More later. :dunce:
 
I got the rockers welded in and slathered a little body sealer in the seams. None of the photos I took came out very well but I did manage to get the fork lift under a wheel for some poser shots. It seems to flex pretty well considering there is no weight in the back. The shackles aren't hitting anything so it seems to have survived the parking lot test.

Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

I made a frame for relocating the stock fuel tank so that is next.
 
I made a frame for the stock tank and raised it up/moved forward a bit. I wanted to use a fuel cell but it's just going to have to wait a while. I will build the floor over the tank so it's still outdoors but a little safer tucked up there.

Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

I also removed the filler door from my parts car along with a large part of the quarter and sunk it in the side of my project so I still have a stock filler and it the correct relation to the tank. I got tired of tired of welding little pinholes and will use some body filler.

Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr


I added some drain holes after it filled with rain water.

Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr
 
I need a 5/16" tube bender to complete the fuel lines. I am running them and the brake lines inside the vehicle. This will make in convenient to install some type of handbrake and make it so I can run the lines while standing. While I wait for a way to bend the tube I will install the WRX seats. Thanks for looking
 
Top notch build. You do some great work


Thanks, It's a lot of fun for sure. I am looking forward to having all the interior metal in and moving on to the next thing. The list that was once "endless" is a lot shorter than it was a couple of years ago. It's getting easier to stay stoked all the time.
 
Have you been updating a build thread elsewhere, or has this project been cast aside like almost every project I've ever started? I like the way you solve problems, and I've been looking forward to seeing some news here.
 
Have you been updating a build thread elsewhere, or has this project been cast aside like almost every project I've ever started? I like the way you solve problems, and I've been looking forward to seeing some news here.

Tons of progress actually. Ill catch you up in a couple of days.. visiting family in PA. right now.
 
once I for the fuel tank installed a had to pie slick the heck out the original fill pipe. I used a "flaw finder" kit to check for leaks. I didn't have enough gas for the lighter method! haha.


Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

The next part of the trip was "two forward one back" when I got a pair of WRX seats and grafted them in place of the stock XJ seats. The process worked (not easy) but the first problem was the WRX seats have large side bolsters and if you slide your ass off the side to see out the window, you sort of fall off the edge. Other problems came up later.

I know many of you folks have jobs that have you stuck at a desk or worse. It's great having a fab shop but I sometimes make things I don't need or need "right now". It's my version of an impulse buy.

Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

Budget tube flair for air cleaner interface

Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr


Some layout.

Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

Spring holds element into said interface.

Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

filter housing sitting where it goes. The upper port will go into the cowl and the lower one goes to the intake pipe and on to motor.

Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

Made a fancy cover.

Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr
 
Mostly installed. Ill take a better photo soon.

IMG_3555 by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

At this point I started rebuilding a Dana 300 and working on the doubler I started months ago. I was going to build my own but ended up going with a Frogfab kit which looks great and went together fine. I had already cut and blocked the 231 range box so slight mod was required. I used the Novak kit and it was pretty straight forward.

IMG_3079 by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

I had read that you could flip the 231 on the AX15 by only drilling a couple of holes. I reverse engineered the bolt circle but couldn't get the right combo of angles to keep the 300 tucked with 231 linkage up top so I made a 3/8" thick flip ring.

IMG_3270 by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

The shift rods at the bottom of the 300 were a drag so I made a new rail box that bolts where the old cover was.

IMG_3453 by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

I made new rails from 4340 and reconfigured the detent system so it can be adjusted.

IMG_3498 by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

There are extra features on the rail box for attaching a girdle which I will weld my mounts to. Partially completed shown.

IMG_3675 by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

A little better view.

IMG_3677 by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr
 
Next thing was to make some shift linkage. I wanted all the sticks in a row and started with the range box.

IMG_3641 by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

One of the many trips back and forth.

IMG_3687 by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

NOW SOME USEFUL INFO.

I picked up a couple of interesting facts regarding the Dana 300 and the 231 flip ring that you may find useful.

If you twin stick the 300 and remove the safety mechanism you stand the chance of shifting the front and rear axles into different gear ranges. I read in a couple of places that it created a mechanical "lock". It does not.

Regarding the 231/AX15 connection (likely the same as 231/AW4) if you put a flip ring between the two, you move one of the seals off of the mating surface on the planetary (231 input) causing a huge transmission leak. The image below is the 231 input shaft with a "seal saver" partially and correctly installed for the application.

this will extend the surface of the input back into the seal stopping the leak. I don't know how I was able to do this without destroying the thin sleeve.
IMG_4313 by barnstormerbikes, on FlickrI tucked the 300 just above the bottom of the frame rails. That combined with the shift box size (I got lazy and should have milled it like a wedge)
left me with a GIANT hump on the floor. Here are a few images of me making sheet metal cry.

IMG_4397 by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

IMG_4396 by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

Fumbling like a blind man.

IMG_4404 by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

Lost in some type of "hack fog"

IMG_4405 by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

I think light green shag carpet for the interior now.

IMG_4407 by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr
 
I should have maintained a steady stream of posts rather than a huge blob of material every few months. I didn't but I am happy to go back over anything that requires more detail.

The next thing on the list was the tubular stuff which I have partially done. Ill get you caught up soon but sparks come before words. Thanks!
 
Thanks for catching us up, this is some impressive work. I like that when you have an, "impulse buy," you still manage to be productive. That air filter box and intake is my new favourite.
 
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