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The Frog Blog

After reading through some threads on here on oil it sounds like the Mobil high mileage 10-40 and I think 15-40? both have good amounts of ZDDP in them for the flat tappets. Rotella T 10-30 and 15-40 also have lots of it. This a diesel oil, but also carries ratings for gas engines and it sounds like lots of guys here run it and like it. I'm going to give it a shot to see if I can quiet down the ol' 4.0 rattle. It's a 93 w/ 55k miles on it and still sounds like a diesel!
 
Here are a few pics of my RMS installation back in February. I did not take as many photos as I should have, but maybe some of these are useful to some of you. I'll take more shots when my kid changes out his RMS in a month or two. I won't be soaked in oil then and should be able to document the process a bit better.

This is a crazy place to start the photo sequence, but here is my purty engine with the pan removed.

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I was impressed with how clean the engine looked after 130,000+ miles. See the drops of oil accumulating in different spots? Yeah, that's the crap that drops in your eyes when you are not expecting it. Take this time to inspect for wear and really look at the oil pickup unit and screen. I had no sludge or debris whatsoever.

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This is a good shot of the flywheel and what you'll see when you finally wrestle the inspection plate free. That sucker took me 20 minutes to get off, thanks to the bolt that is unable to be removed due to the exhaust flange. Installation of the inspection plate was no picnic either, but I hear you can bend or remove some of the plate to facilitate quicker install without causing problems.

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I just think this photo is as purty as can be. This is the bearing cap retainer that you need to remove to gain access to the rear bearing cap (and others).

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More of the same. Interesting picture. Take note of the starter location. Drop a bolt in there, and you're are done for the day.

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This is the rear bearing cap with lower RMS in place. Take care in cleaning the old seal and debris from it and do not scratch the bearing cap surface. Use a nylon brush and plenty of patience. Took me about two hours to get this really clean.

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This shot shows the upper seal after tapping it a few times with a nail punch. Be careful to not scratch anything. I could not find anything soft like a brass punch or plastic rod, but the nail punch worked well and was small enough to work, so long as I took my time and used care. Once the upper seal is out about 3/4", you can pull the rest out with needle nose pliers, pulling in an arc, following the curvature of the bearing.

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This is a shot with the bearing retainer removed. Prior to installing the upper seal, you should loosen all caps to facilitate easier installation. Yeah, I destroyed my first seal by not following that simple procedure. That cost me another 30 bucks, and about two hours of time.

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More to follow....
 
Part II...

Why do my pictures have white borders? I think I need to stop using shutterfly...

OK, back to the upper seal. Here is a nice shot of the upper seal nearly out. At this point, I sighed a bit of a relief because I knew I was home free. I suppose if it broke inside, I would just have to drop the tranny or something.

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At this time, I cleaned my oil pan and placed the gasket on the mating surface. I used the old rubber band trick to hold the gasket in place, and that worked wonderfully.

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Here is a close-up shot for those of you that are visually impaired...

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This is the expensive RTV I bought at the dealer. You don't need to use much and the tube is large enough for several RMS applications. Anybody want to buy my leftovers?

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Time was getting late and I have no photos of the seal installed in the bearing cap. This photo shows the cap installed and bearing retainer back in place. Presumably, it is ready for the oil pan.

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This final shot is fairly worthless. Again, I did not take as many photos as I should have, but I will during the next installation. I learned that this simple 4-hour job took me 10 hours because I destroyed the upper seal and had to buy a new one. I also used too much RTV and would not do that again, but will instead defer to the official installation manual for this job.

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For those who want to do this job, here are some pointers:

Time it with an oil change and when you have plenty of time and a second vehicle to use for parts runs.

Use quality RTV.

Follow good directions.

Get a good, reliable torque wrench.

Mark your oil pan bracket locations.

Don't lose any bolts.

Use care when cleaning the lower bearing cap.

Buy quality seals and gaskets. Pre-soaped seals are best.

Jack your vehicle and lower your front axle. Use good jack stands for safety.

Don't do this when it is too hot or too cold. You'll just get pissed off.

Inspect your front seal and replace at the same time if bad. Have a harmonic balancer puller on hand if needed.

Have two rear main seals on hand. You can always return the unused one later.

Clean all surfaces thoroughly.

Encourage helpers to do the dirty work. Bribe them with beer or snacks.

Play loud music while working. Enjoy this job, as you will earn respect when done.
 
In light of the catastrophic oil well mishap off the Louisianna coast, I suddenly don't feel so bad about my new valve cover leak, the oozing leaks through my Ruff Stuff 8.25 and D30 countersunk diff cover bolts, or the incessant post-RMS installation leak. Nor do I care that my kid leaks oil on my pristine driveway from his D30 output shaft, rear main seal, or transfer case. In fact, I welcome it and feel closer to nature.
 
Yeah, that is NOT good. They're saying its spilling out 5,000 barrels a day...whoa.

The thing blew up and SANK. Very brutal, and it's going to make a hell of a disaster on the salt marshes in LA.
 
It is nearly one month before my Poker Run on the Rubicon during the Father's Day weekend, and I need to figure out what to do for a spare. I have my matching Cragar steel rim, but I will buy a new 33" BFG this weekend. I can throw it on the rack for the time being, but in the long run, I will want a rear tire swing.

I contacted Detours Offroad Hardware and they have a nice looking XJ Tailbone tire swing setup for $440, shipped. I have no problem going with this cheaper route, as my rear bumper and end caps are in pristine shape.

Here's the link to their site. http://www.detoursusa.com/index.php

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Opinions?
 
I like it. I think the back bumper on the XJ already looks pretty good and that can beef it up a little and provide a tire carrier and tow points. Pretty solid looking to me, but I think for $440 you might as well just get a full on bumper too
 
I'm thinking of going the Detours Tailbone route also. Most rear bumper/tire carrier combos are twice the asking price of the Detours kit.
 
I just got one about a week or so ago. It is just waiting for paint and I hope to install it this weekend. It is a very nice, well thought out carrier. I like that it holds the tire on the drivers side as well.

feel free to stop by and check it out if you want.

BTW it took 10 weeks from the time of the order to delivery. Well worth the wait if you have the time.

Josh
 
I like it. I think the back bumper on the XJ already looks pretty good and that can beef it up a little and provide a tire carrier and tow points. Pretty solid looking to me, but I think for $440 you might as well just get a full on bumper too

I like the look as well, and other full bumper assemblies are upwards of 800 bucks and end caps don't look as good on the 99 models. Cost and functionality are pushing me to this product.
 
I just got one about a week or so ago. It is just waiting for paint and I hope to install it this weekend. It is a very nice, well thought out carrier. I like that it holds the tire on the drivers side as well.

feel free to stop by and check it out if you want.

BTW it took 10 weeks from the time of the order to delivery. Well worth the wait if you have the time.

Josh

I'm glad you got one and thanks for offering me to take a look. You'll need to post pics of the installation.

10 weeks, huh? That's a long wait so I better order mine soon. I'd like to have it in time for Sierra Fest. Too late?
 
I'm glad you got one and thanks for offering me to take a look. You'll need to post pics of the installation.

10 weeks, huh? That's a long wait so I better order mine soon. I'd like to have it in time for Sierra Fest. Too late?

Sorry just counted the weeks and it was only 8 weeks including the week long shipping time from KY. Mark is a great guy and from what I have it looked like he put more thought and time into the packaging than some put into there products.

As said before the tailbone is very well thought out and very well made, he is a one man shop and these things are pretty popular as there is a lag in production.

I will post up some picks when I get it on.

Josh
 
Mark is a great guy and from what I have it looked like he put more thought and time into the packaging than some put into there products.

Ditto for my experiences with the rock rails. I remember joking with him about how well those things were packed for something designed to get bashed into rocks. :)
 
It would be nice to have an off-center rear tire carrier.
You would be surprised how much rearward view they block.
Throw the '33 in the back with some straps until then.
 
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