the best u-joints

[C85D4x4]

Thanks man!!!

 

[uspsamaster]

I don't have them so I have no first hand knowlege but My undersanding is both OX and CTM are a diffrent type of U-joint that is not intened for constant use such as on XJ's they are very strong but will were out quickly in a constant use situation becouse they don't use the needle barrings like spice and others.
Again I am no expert on the matter so check for your self but for the money it would pay you to make sure before you get them.

 

[XJ_ranger]

now for a real post:

Jantz is a company to check out

also might look into upgrading from the 260 series joints with some 297 shafts from a 95+ XJ, TJ, or YJ... (or ABS equiped earlier XJ) if you arent ABS equiped. Your profile says that you have a 1993... something to consider if your going to all the effort to change u-joints anyway...

 

[4ward]

usps, I believe you're correct. They use a bushing instead of bearings, but I don't know how quickly they'd were if you keep them greased. Maybe some of these guys that run them will chime in.

Personally, I don't see the point in paying $150 per joint. I've never blown a 760 completely. I did blow one cap off, but noticed it before any harm was done. I HAVE blown a warn alloy shaft and the 760 was still intact.Proof here, pic 291 of Richard's BOTW album . Take it as you want to. I would buy the Longfield joints though as I feel they are actually worth it.

I'm glad ranger said something, cuz I never even thought to ask you if you had 260's or 297/760's.

 

[old_man]

I think you are running the bigger ujoints, not the 260's. but I don't remember the switchover date. Spicer does make an upgraded joint called the 5-760 joints and they run around $20. The word is that they are about 30% stronger or so.

Are they just wearing out or are they breaking? If they are wearing out, CTM or any joint that doesn't have needles will probably not last as long. Wearing out is a lube issue most of the time. If the seal collars are comprimised and water gets in, no joint will last.

The ears on the axles could be missaligned and causing problems, they could be bad enough to let the caps work loose.

 

[ryurabbit]

I believe the only problem you would have with CTM, OX, or LONGFIELDS is if they were under load all the time as in your locked up front. Just make sure you grease them often as they have bronze bushings instead of needle bearings. As far as wear goes I think you would be fine if you lube them regularily. But they will never last as long as spicer joints treated the same way. There strength lies in the ability to resist breaking acrossed the body and not needle bearings to crush.

 

[Ramsey]

what does being locked up front have to do with turning in 2wd.

if you have manual hubs then you can unlock them and be fine, otherwise you might have wear issues.

 

[ryurabbit]

I edited my post because I forgot that most XJ's dont have hubs,my bad!

 

[WobblesXJ]

Anyone know the spicer part number for the driveshaft u-joints? I search but I guess I couldn't come up with the right combo of words.

 

[johnnyc]

Anyone know the spicer part number for the driveshaft u-joints? I search but I guess I couldn't come up with the right combo of words.

Driveshaft u-joint is 153x.

Isn't it true that you shouldn't run the CTM and OX u-joints with stock axle shafts? This would make the shafts the weak link. And it's easier and cheaper to replace a busted u-joint than to replace a busted shaft. I've heard that these uber-joints should only be used with aftermarket alloy shafts.

 

[XJack]

Driveshaft u-joint is 153x.

Isn't it true that you shouldn't run the CTM and OX u-joints with stock axle shafts? This would make the shafts the weak link. And it's easier and cheaper to replace a busted u-joint than to replace a busted shaft. I've heard that these uber-joints should only be used with aftermarket alloy shafts.

Most u-joint failures take the shaft ears out with them. Alloy simply helps to move the weak link up the driveline.

The preferred weak link is a somewhat debatable subject - but tends to be the driveshaft u-joint when upgraded axles, diffs, etc. come into play.

I'd much rather change a driveshaft u-joint that tear down a hub on the trail.

 

[etaniyani]

what about these u joints. would these superflex joints also help with driveline vibrations.

http://4xshaft.com

 

[Slip Kid]

Get Spicer.

 

[XJsqared]

I am having the same problem with my front axle u-joints, I just had them replaced about 40,000 miles ago, and there shot again, the same terrible creaking noise when turning sharply. Is this typical to wear out this fast I thought they should last longer.
Also, Seriously how hard are they to change myself, I dont have torches on hand, (to remove the old U-joint). It seems like a lot can go wrong with the front end. looks like a PITA, is it worth the $250 to have em done?

 

[GI-John]

It's pretty easy if you take your time, and use a good manual....

You have to remove 11 nuts/bolts IIRC
5 lug nuts
2 caliper bolts (10 mm or torx)
1 hub/shaft retaining nut (36mm)
3 hub retaining bolts (13mm 12 pt)


I believe Madxj.com has a writeup, you might want to check it out....


All in all though, you may want to try it yourself and save the money for other mods...

Good Luck!

John

 

[IntrepidXJ]

I would buy the Longfield joints though as I feel they are actually worth it.

Called Longfield on Friday to order mine. According to the person I spoke to on the phone, I'm getting the last 2 (unless it wasn't true). I guess they are working on a newer stronger joint and discontinuing the current ones.....however they didn't have an ETA or price yet.....so I went ahead and got the current ones.

 

[andersonsys]

As for the bronze bushing part. As most of you may know, a transmission pilot bearing is bronze,(although it is oil impregnated) they usually last for several yrs, and alot more abuse from the tranny, and engine. As someone else had, said you need to check shaft alignment, and other factors before assuming it is just a quickly worn joint.