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SYE + Driveshaft...under $100.00 (not 56k friendly)

read.... and for fawk sake, leave the dead horse be.

Mullet Man said:
thats not why. they both use 1310 u-joints
the reason is the front drive shaft uses a CV yoke on the front output shaft. the yoke bolts to the drive shaft via a flange.

this is a CV yoke...(pic just for reference, its not the actual Jeep part and its not the CV yoke used for this style hack N tap)
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/img...ferCase1310SeriesCVYoke26Spline_D300-1310.jpg

this is the standard type slip yoke found on the rear driveshaft...(again, not actual part but same style)
http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/TkoSlipYoke13.JPG

and this is what it would look like assembled...(altho this a HD SYE, the premise is still the same)
http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/data/articlestandard/jeep/412007/464999/tomwood_10.jpg

to use the original slip yoke bolted to the output shaft, would create one hell of a challenge of how to get the bolt into the end of the output shaft. this is because the standard style slip yoke is not easily removable like a CV yoke is.
you cant get the bolt into the output shaft while the slip yoke is assembled to the driveshaft, there is no room to do it.
Click to expand...
 
will someone post a link to EXACTLY the yoke we need, so we can just make revert to that post for what it is??? I think it's already been posted, but it's a pain in the ass to weed through all the wrong ones. It's not that hard guys... 27 spline, 1310 joint, with un-threaded holes so that bolts pass through it and bolt onto a dual cardian joint.
 
you dont need a link, all you need is the part number (3103-27CV). where you get it from is up to you. prices i have seen new range from high $70's to low $120's.
 
oh right... I forgot we had the part number.
 
maybe we can do some sort of group buy on these yokes to get the cost down.

still wish we knew of a donor vehicle that would likely be found at a junkyard.
 
I just did mine today wish I would of knew about this when I did my TJ. I just want to say great idea and thanks saved a bunch of cash really good web sight
 
I am waiting on parts to do mine, I am doing my 242 and am getting the housing and seal from Eric (link in GoJeeps write-up). I am picking up the yoke tomorrow, and Going to the JY for a DS on Saturday, I will probably order a new driveshaft when the money is there.
I just have to figure out whether or not I am going to need shims to get the axel at the correct angle.
 
Thanks for the write up Dave and GoJeep. I did mine yesterday and it turned out really well. Got the driveshaft for $65 and the yoke for $100, so it saved me a lot of money. After running it to work something did smell hot however, nothing felt hot ...any ideas what I should watch for?
 
Quick thought on cutting that style of output shaft in the newer T-case to make sure its straight, you could just start and run engine in gear(2WD) and hold saw blade or cut-off wheel against it, my 87,88,89,s are different but I am definatley going to find a TH350 yoke and see what I can do.
 
Umm..... Go-jeep already said that... sorry to burst your knowledge bubble
 
Time for some thread necromancy... great tech in here, aside from the accidental misinformation concerning the yoke :gag:

I'm ordering my yoke today, hopefully shims today, and got my front driveshaft this morning for $50 total at Sam's in Worcester MA ($20-30 for shaft, $20 for forklift fee - bring a tall jack or pull other stuff at the same time to get more mileage out of your $20)

My (probably dumb) question is - is there an easy way to calculate the shim angle needed to make pinion angle zero after lifting + installing SYE, or should I just dive in with an angle finder, tape measure, and work some trigonometry magic? I'd prefer to find the required shim angle before I install the SYE to make this go faster, but I'm not entirely sure of my grip of trig anymore, it's been too long, so it may be more sane for me to install the SYE, measure the pinion U-joint angle, then order and install shims. Thoughts?
 
An angle finder is all you need(no trig required).
 
I don't think you're quite catching my point - when I eliminate the slip yoke (I haven't yet), it's going to change the driveshaft angle (I think, correct me if I'm wrong - does the length of the new yoke and the CV joint roughly equal the length of the old slip yoke?), as it will be a few inches longer. As I'm trying to order everything and install it all at once, this makes me think that I'm going to have to either pre-calculate and order shims, or order shims after installing the SYE.

Am I right or does the driveshaft angle stay about the same?
 
The driveshaft will be longer between uni centers after the conversion. Also remember you do not set up the pinion yoke to be zero with a spring over which the XJ's have. You must set it up 2-3 degrees lower to compensate for pinion lift under torque which will then bring it into line.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoD44RearAxleInstall.htm
If you have a auto as well as your 8.25 rear mentioned, the driveshaft will end up close to the length of your front shaft. Gives you something to work it out with.
Use this to help you. http://www.smex.net.au/Reference/TriangleCalc.htm
 
all driveshafts should be the same. lengths may be different (im not quite sure) but they all should mount up the same way.
 
DS is the same fittings, yeah - 1310 U-joint at one end, 1310-using CV at the other.

As for lengths, I believe they are all the same for any 4.0L combination, they are different for the I4s and ancient V6s iirc. Google for "J321-CV" and you'll find a Dana-Spicer catalog, check the Jeep section. That's pretty much the best place to find this info as everyone else (including the dealer) get their info there, so all downstream sources will have equal or less accuracy.

EDIT: to clarify the language slightly, by "any 4.0L combination" I mean that all 4.0/auto/4wd combos will be the same length year to year, 4.0/manual/4wd likewise, 2wd models don't apply to this thread obviously.
 
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