Strange engine start issue

[orange]

96 pump is on front and as mentioned, it can be changed without dropping the tank.

Be sure there is less than 1/4 tank of gas in tank. Do NOT force it, and try to remember how you turn the pump as the new one is the reverse going in. The rubber peg on bottom of the assembly goes into a hole inside the tank, and this lets the mounting flange sit flat on the tank. If not in hole flange has gap on one side.

Get a new "o" ring ($7 or so) that seals the mounting flange and vasoline it during install, take locking ring down slow while watching o ring to be sure it stays in the groove. Use a popsicle stick or the like, to push it back in to groove if it pushes out.

Be extra carefull while working around fuel and do raise the rear of Jeep for access. Extra well blocked and on stands.

Good Luck,
Orange

 

[H8PVMT]

my problem ended up being intermittent no power to coil...have you ruled that out? i just hot wired my coil to the battery for the time being, but I could have swore it was the fuel pump

doug

 

[kastein]

Alright here's the FINAL GOUGE on the infamous 1996 Cherokee 4.0 "FUEL MODULES" In short- they don't make them anymore. I called a dealer here and he couldn't get one I did get the correct OEM part number which is 5003869AA. The lowest price I could find online was the $280 range. Some crooks are asking 700 plus for them- F them I say. Here's a few links, or you can just do a search on the part number and it will come up.
http://jeeppartsguy.com/products/?view=product&product_id=90544

or

http://www.oconeeoffroad.com/servlet/the-18797/FUEL-MODULE-1996-XJ/Detail

Hope this helps and it looks like for me this is the only option as I'm 99.9999% sure the FPR is out on mine.

When I ended up needing a new tank for my 96 I was too cheap to buy a new one and couldn't find a pre-97 steel tank at the JY in good shape, so I just got a 97+ plastic tank and its pump for a whopping $50. They bolt in with a bit of work on 96+ (on 95-down you may need to consider what to do with the fuel pressure regulator and return line and whatnot) but the fuel gauge is rendered inoperative due to some asinine decisions made by ChryCo in 96 and 97 (I found the 96 gauge sender is completely unique, 97+ sender is like 95-down sender but with resistance values reversed as per Joe Peters.) I just use my odometer to figure out when to buy gas, and carry a 2.5 gallon jerry can just in case I forget.

If you want, you can do the same to avoid having to buy a new 96 fuel pump. The only real downside is the fuel gauge problem.

 

[Thunderballs]

Kastein thanks for the info on the 97 setup. I use this as a daily for work so I just bought the assembly so I have a working fuel guage.

Doug- yea I did a diagnostic on the system and its def the check valve in the fpr causing the problem. It won't hold any pressure immediately after turning it off.

Orange -Thanks for the tips I was kinda wondering about the lock ring as I had to do a similar thing on my 64 SS Nova I guess fuel tank designs haven't changed much I ordered the Oring also just to make sure its GTG when I reassemble.

Thanks all for the advice/info!