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Steering upgrade for my 96 classic DD

VAhasnoWAVES said:
:banghead:

the rustys track bar is 1.5x.25 DOM. quarter. wall. DOM. far superior to the ZJ tie rod. it also uses the stock TREs, which are cheap, that it sounds like you need to replace.

the ZJ one is garbage. ive bent quite a few. im a believer that the bends in it are a stress riser. and you will also need an adjuster and a second TRE. driving up costs...
Click to expand...

For a rig thats 4-wheeled like Walt does (it is Walt, isn't it?), I'd agree with him. For a daily driver... do you want to spend $100 and get 1.5" quarter wall DOM + whatever crappy tie rod ends Rusty's is shipping these days, or do you want 1" solid stock from Moog for around the same price?
FWIW I've had ZJ tie rod on mine for years with no issue, DDing mostly and some "Wow, this forest service road SUCKS" accidental 'wheeling.

Unless I'm misreading... Gary, you could probably be happy with replacing exactly what you have on there right now.
 
I agree. The problem I had with an aftermarket tie rod was that it also used stock tie rod ends. The tie rod was beefy and served its purpose well, until I tried to adjust it. The tie rod ends had galled to the tie rod. There was no budging it. Even took it to a friend's off-road shop and they couldn't budge it either. Thinking it was my fault, I bought another of the exact same tie rod and used plenty of anti-seize. Some time later, the exact same thing happened. So I decided to go with the V8 ZJ tie rod and have not regretted it at all.
 
Nah. Same style as everyone else sells. Works great on some axles & lift heights, works poorly on (most, damn-near-all) XJs.
The type you are trying to avoid is where the lower link goes from knuckle to knuckle and the upper goes from pitman arm to lower link.
This is distinct from XJ steering in that the XJ, from factory, runs from pitman arm to knuckle and from other knuckle to drag link.
 
The only aftermarket Y link I have found is the Rugged Ridge stuff, I mostly find terrible reviews.

After all this I guess I'm gonna order some Moog ZJ stuff.
 
Went to the Pick-n-pull in Stockton this morning, they had 8 ZJ's 6 of which were the V8 variety. I took the time to walk to each and every individual on and inspect the tie rods. 5 outta 6 were completely roached, the one exception was a mint 97 that had been rear ended. Clearly this thing hadn't been in the yard long since the V8 and interior were still complete. Someone odviously loved this jeep, the underside looked like it had just been pressure washed. I removed the tierod and inspected it, the ends felt tight and the rubber boots were in excellent condition, so I bought it for 17$

Upon removal of my stock junk, the right side tierod end was horribly loose which explains why my steering felt so sloppy.


I installed the ZJ rod, gave it a tape measure alignment, took her for a test drive and immediately felt a world of difference. Everything feels nice and crisp. Totally worth the 17$ and a few hours time.

 
GordoSmasho said:
You have to relocate your swaybar mounts. For that to work. A lot of effort for something not in the rocks that much.
Click to expand...

Agreed, I wouldn't dream of running the Con in this thing. Most obstacles I'll face will be moderate at the worst.

My XJ is 18 years old with 170xxx miles, my thought process is to beef up things when the stock parts start crapping out on me. I'm really pleased with the ZJ tie rod and wish I would have swapped it in sooner. Had no barometer to gauge how bad my steering actually was prior to the swap
 
The zj stuff is a bit stronger then stock and if I remember correct the tie rods are stronger to. For your lift and intended usage it should work well. If you decide in the future you need something stronger ruffstuff makes some great steering setups using 1ton tie rods or heims along with some heavy wall dom. But thats a little more hardcore then your intended usage.
 
There's a lot of nice components out there, however I don't want to spend grips of cash on non essential components. Rather invest that money into my 8.8 upgrade and beefing up the HP 30.
 
Gary Briggs said:
There's a lot of nice components out there, however I don't want to spend grips of cash on non essential components. Rather invest that money into my 8.8 upgrade and beefing up the HP 30.
Click to expand...

The 8.8 is pretty tough but id but the C-clip kit so you can ditch the c clip and use the 44 style semi float axles.

As for the 30 if you plan on abusing it at all id add a truss some C reinforcements and a few other odds and ends like outer axle seals to prevent mud and dirt getting in the tubes and rusting them or getting into your inner seals. Maybe upgrade to a super 30 with 30 spline outers and upgraded unit bearings. But you can do that stuff in stages as you decide what your usage will be.
 
Fully intend on trussing the 8.8 and the dirty hp 30, not because I have to but because I can, I work in an industrial sheet metal shop and can laser anything I desire, and I think the truss' look cool.

I had intended to run an Aussie in the 8.8 and a LSD in the 30 with either 3:73 (currently in the 8.8) or 4:11's

My next project is to relocate the rear shocks through the floor board so the work properly.
 
Gary Briggs said:
my thought process is to beef up things when the stock parts start crapping out on me.
Click to expand...

Gary Briggs said:
There's a lot of nice components out there, however I don't want to spend grips of cash on non essential components
Click to expand...

Gary Briggs said:
Fully intend on trussing the 8.8 and the dirty hp 30, not because I have to but because I can

My next project is to relocate the rear shocks through the floor board so the work properly.
Click to expand...
your thought process does to make sense to me... but ok.




anyways... id recommend the LSD in the rear, and lunchbox the front.
 
What doesn't make sense?

Replacing old parts with HD upgrades? Not wanting to spend money on unnecessary upgrades? Relocating my shocks which will cost Zero dollars?
 
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