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Squeaky Doors - How to eliminate

wil4thril said:
The drivers side door on my 86 MJ always squeaked but I never worried until the metal guide that the door position bar runs thru pulled out of the body. I just took it off but the door would always slam into the back of my legs. Moral: lube your doors with something regularly!!


I just fixed the passenger side on the MJ last weekend. The inside part came out in pieces, but nothing a little creative welding and a few fender washers on the bolts couldn't fix.
 
jccj7 said:
WOW!!!! Thanks for all the replies. At least it's good that I had tried some of things suggested in the post as well as areas to lubricate. For awhile there, I thought I was missing something here.

Anyways - I tried the WD-40 approach for now since the grease and silicon approached did not work. Surprisingly, it has worked. Never really thought WD-40 would be a good, sustain lube, but so far so good.

Thanks again for all the suggestions and will consider if I need to try something different.

jc
The real trick with the WD is to do it repeatedly...every couple months and you'll be set.
 
The door do-hickey, is the "Door Check" its a metal plate attached to the body that goes into the door and inside the door is a mechanism with rollers and springs and rubber bushings. It holds the door at a part way point and at full open and it damps the swing so the door opens smoothly and the rubber bushings absorb any shock from swinging the door open to hard.

I had to replace both front ones on my 'XJ. About $12 each. The rollers can seize up and lube will only help a tiny bit, they won't work right until you get new ones if the rollers are siezed.

I have one on order for Neon, I don't know if its a device Chrysler added to the XJ or Chrysler took from AMC. Older Chryslers have the more common springs on the hindge to do the same job.

WD-40 is oil based and will lubricate, but I've seen more than once that it was designed as an Anti-Corrosion Coating/Film. Funny, someone mentioned it smells fishy, I've also read that fish oil is one of the most effective rust prevenatitives, its in Rustoleum's Rusty Metal Primer, which also warns not to use it on clean metal because if there is not rusty metal to absorb the fish oil, it will cause the top coat paint to bubble.

My Guess, the XJ hindges look a little more restricted than most. There is more metal covering the pins that goes thru, so its harder to get lube all the way into them. As well, those "CHECK" devices tend to seize up and create a lot of noise and resistance as you open or close them.

I would think using any lube that penetrates and wicks into crevices would do the best at lubing the hindges, since there seems to a longer than average distance for any lube to wick into on the thru pin.

I don't have good experiences using White Lithium Grease for the hindges, even though most owners manuals call for exactly that. The wipe on stuff out of a tub doesn't penetrate into the hinge joints and the spray on stuff gets all over and then collects and gunks up.

I've used WD-40, never PB BLaster. I've used Silicone spray before, it worked really well on Mini-Van Sliding doors. It seems to penetrate/wick, but leaves a dry film that last longer and doesn't gunk up. The mini-van sliding doors really get stuck as the lube gunks up on all the sliding rollers in it. Kids soda and candy residue doesn't help either, I've had a stuck mini-van sliding door more than once, that all it took to free up was to wipe the sticky residue off the seals and edges with a warm wash clothe and it worked fine.

I can never find silicone spray lube, thats why I haven't used it in years. I just saw it on the shelf of my local hardware store, I'm going to pick up a can, I'll let you know how it works. I've replaced the bad Door Checks on my XJ, but haven't lubed up the hindges, so the doors move easier now, but still some creaks and moans with a little resistance on the drivers side door. Hopefully the silicone lube in the hinges will finish up the job.
 
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