Slip Yoke Part Number

[J-Roc]

I have found a couple more places... cheapest has been $99
Also digging through that pirate thread,

that currie flange keeps sounding better and better

http://www.a-v-t.com/sye.jpg
http://www.4x4getaways.com/Flange front.jpg

especially for $40 but it probably doesn't include everything like the RE kit

 

[Stihl029]

Sorry i thought that you were looking for the yoke like on the hack and tap. Here is a link about that type of driveline that you are looking at doing from Yucca-Man: http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/sye.html

 

[J-Roc]

no... I was/am looking for the go jeep style yoke and now have 4 sources for it but the flange is almost more appealing now

Guys this is something to look at for people with a newer style case....
http://www.4x4getaways.com/oldmansye.htm

*The important info is the Currie Seal*
This will allow us to run the yoke or flange closer to the output bearing
Who has done the old man write up? I cannot find the Old Man writeup on here anywhere? Is old_man the same person?

Woot, I found my answer from 2005

 

[J-Roc]

Ok I can't edit my post anymore....

Question Time
Old_man uses a 96+ tail cone on an old style case... uses the currie seal to prevent weeping and to run the flange basically right against the output bearing.

Now the 96+ cases have that little dust shield on the end of the tail cone housing. Can I pry that seal off, use a currie seal and butt the appropriate yoke or flange against the output bearing on my 96?

I was reading through Yucca's write up on the SYE and I do not like how far away the double cardan sits from the tcase... like everyone knows, lots of leverage/stress on the output shaft.

So what exactly is stopping me from butting the yoke against the output bearing like Marcus has done on his pre 95 tcase?

 

[sjbond67]

If your on a extreme budget like i am your probably better off buying the part in my above post cause if you have to buy it new its cheaper then the yoke and probably easier to find in a junk yard it can be found on these cars
80-82 Ford Thunderbird
80-82 Mercury Couger
82-87 Lincoln Continental
79-80 Lincoln Versailles
84-88 Lincoln Mark VII

this maybe a stupid question but are these yokes come off the transmission? thinking about calling junkyards but dont want to sound like a dumbass

 

[Oatmeal]

this maybe a stupid question but are these yokes come off the transmission? thinking about calling junkyards but dont want to sound like a dumbass

Not totally sure but, IIRC it was actually at the pinion end of the driveshaft--------Hans

 

[mustangconv85]

it would be part of the driveshaft this is what your looking for http://www.shaftmasters.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=165

 

[sjbond67]

trying to avoid that so i can just use the yoke and front drive shaft

 

[Gojeep]

If your on a extreme budget like i am your probably better off buying the part in my above post cause if you have to buy it new its cheaper then the yoke and probably easier to find in a junk yard it can be found on these cars
80-82 Ford Thunderbird
80-82 Mercury Couger
82-87 Lincoln Continental
79-80 Lincoln Versailles
84-88 Lincoln Mark VII

With the new knowledge out that a yoke that fits a standard uni having a different hole spacing, you wont be able to use any of these yokes as none would have come with a CV or double cardon yoke in the driveshaft. Never seen one on a car yet here at least.

 

[mustangconv85]

the cars that i listed were posted in a different thread by a napa employee that said those are the cars that this part was listed for in their computer http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=PUJ&PartNumber=627&Description=Double+Cardan+(CV)+Centering+Yoke that is the adapter needed to bolt a front driveshaft directly to the RE Hack N Tap flange

 

[sjbond67]

That is NOT the correct one.

This is the correct one and where to buy it.
http://www.driveshaft.com/catalogs_type.htm?type=Transmission+Yokes
part no. is 3103-27CV

im just looking for this, not the other spicer part, what vehicles do these come on if any

 

[Oatmeal]

Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangconv85
If your on a extreme budget like i am your probably better off buying the part in my above post cause if you have to buy it new its cheaper then the yoke and probably easier to find in a junk yard it can be found on these cars
80-82 Ford Thunderbird
80-82 Mercury Couger
82-87 Lincoln Continental
79-80 Lincoln Versailles
84-88 Lincoln Mark VII

With the new knowledge out that a yoke that fits a standard uni having a different hole spacing, you wont be able to use any of these yokes as none would have come with a CV or double cardon yoke in the driveshaft. Never seen one on a car yet here at least.

I actually got one off of one of those listed (can't remember which, now) vehicles (it was mounted on the axle end of the shaft!) with the intent of doing the RE hack-n-tap (it actually replaces the CV centering yoke with a flange style that bolts to the RE flange) but, I like the idea of being able to bolt an unmodified front shaft up and only having to carry one spare that'll fit either front or back better......I'm going to have to see my driveshaft guy about getting me that yoke----------Hans

 

[Gojeep]

the cars that i listed were posted in a different thread by a napa employee that said those are the cars that this part was listed for in their computer http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=PUJ&PartNumber=627&Description=Double+Cardan+(CV)+Centering+Yoke that is the adapter needed to bolt a front driveshaft directly to the RE Hack N Tap flange

My bad as thought this was about fitting a CV yoke not a flange.

 

[Oatmeal]

My driveshaft guy has them on his shelf and usually sells them as part of a CV/slip yoke conversion shaft but, he says he'll sell me one for $85 (his list is $140!) I'll get a part number and manufacturer when I pick one up and post up (don't have an extra $85 right now) so maybe you can get them directly from them (cheaper?)---------Hans

 

[Canyonman]

I have 2000 year,242 Transfer case
I want to use #3103-27CV so I can mount up a front drive shaft
without a flange set up.
Hack and tap tail shaft/Make a thick, tool steel washer and weld onto #3103-27CV.
Use either a stock front shaft or have a custom shaft made.
Does that sound right?
I was told that the output shaft was a 32 spline on the 242 96+ year?
I have not taken mine apart yet to see past the "BOOT".
Is a front drive shaft strong enough to be used anyway?Could carry two or three backups from junk yard.
My 87 242 has been fine for 17 years with 6" lift and a long slip yoke.
The newer 2000 has vibes when I transfered the lift and Dana 30,44 over from the 87.I Should just keep my 87 wag.XJ:doh:
Yes,the pinion angles are out right now but I made angle shims to dial in once I get the drive shaft arangment figured out.
Thanks for any imput.

 

[bcsavage]

I know, back from the dead. I've got a ford 8.8 from a 99 explorer. Grabbed the flange off an older drum 8.8 and a front driveshaft from a 94 V8 ZJ. I want to do a homebrew hack'n'tap and I'm sure I can find the dbl-cardan to flange joint off one of the cars listed but my question is:

Are there any vehicles that have the flange like the RE HNT kits? $200 is ridonkulous for a silly flange and a seal. I can lathe up my own seal housing and the seal itself is napa #16657 correct? So where is this elusive flange I'm looking for? Year make and models gentlemen, that's all I need and this 8.8 might be in this weekend