Size of bolts that hold the hub on?

[Sidewinder CC]

I tried the NAPA Precision u-joints on my rear drive shaft. One failed within two months. Went to Spicer u-joints and haven't had a problem since. Didn't even try to get my money back on the Precision u-joints...just tossed them in the trash.

 

[kastein]

agree... spicer 5-760x (for 95 and later anyways, earlier it's a mixed bag) for axleshafts and 5-153x for all driveshaft joints, accept no substitutes

 

[Sidewinder CC]

I substituted the one you just posted and left a note to avoid confusion :thumbup:

Thanks.

 

[DerMeister]

Well, it looks like the new U-joints might have cleared my vibes and humming noise. One of the caps on one of the U joints was just rust and pretty loose.

No noise or vibes on the way home. The new bolts fit perfect.

Did discover that my rear precision U-joints are bad already. Could be from the pinion angle (2.5" of lift in the rear with no T-case drop).

So I hope you guys aren't right about taking the precision ones back.

Now to drop the T-case with some washers, and get new U-joints in the rear.

 

[93gc40]

They are right about the u-joints not only will the spicers last they are also less expensive. If they notice your rig is lifted they won't take them back, probably wont anyway.... They are not responsible for YOUR mistakes.

 

[Matthew Currie]

I will just add my usual caution about those bolts. Note that the shanks are reduced in diameter. There's a good reason for this, because they pass through a lot of material, and if they're not necked down, corrosion will bind them tight and may make them impossible to remove. Use the correct ones if you can, and grease them.

 

[yossarian19]

It's not only for corrosion.
Necking the bolt down, through the magic of material science, equalizes the stress through the bolt - eliminating weak points that usually occur right at the base of the threaded section. As far as fatigue goes, the necked bolt is stronger than a straight shank. When you see a necked bolt, think "mission critical" - because that's what the engineers thought, too.

 

[Matthew Currie]

It's not only for corrosion.
Necking the bolt down, through the magic of material science, equalizes the stress through the bolt - eliminating weak points that usually occur right at the base of the threaded section. As far as fatigue goes, the necked bolt is stronger than a straight shank. When you see a necked bolt, think "mission critical" - because that's what the engineers thought, too.

I'm sure that's also true, as the bolts are pretty hard. All the more reason not to cheat.